Time for the sparks to fly; tabbing the single cells into pairs.
Using a Sunko 788H spot welder for connecting pairs of 18650 cells with 8x0.15mm nickel strips. Have the spot welder set to 99/2 with the current control set to about 50%. You can see the double spot weld pulses in the slo-mo section of video.
More to come, making more bus wires...
Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching
Let's see how well the stadium followed the water district recommendations for keeping trash out of the creek.
A sign and some trash cans, that should do it according to the stadium and city of Santa Clara.
Look at the before and after photos, major difference in trash levels. And this situation worsens with each event. At least until the creek floods, then the problem will be taken care of. All that trash will get washed out into San Francisco Bay, out of sight, out of mind is the apparent mantra.
And if they can't keep litter out of the creek, what about patrons? Imagine 75,000 fans milling around outside the stadium before Super Bowl 50. What if the creek is flowing at 1000cfs or so? One trip or mis-step and someone is going for a swim. Hopefully the stadium has a swift water rescue team on hand.
Here's some additional photos of the trash:
https://goo.gl/photos/poFWMMtVXGKdpY1y7
Contact the stadium operating company if you find this disgusting:
http://www.levisstadium.com/contact-us/
In the next video, we'll take a look at some of the trash discarded into the creek channel by stadium patrons using the creek trail for stadium access:
https://youtu.be/LyqgmaG9FUA
Previous video:
https://youtu.be/eW6vNMgBAIM
And as always, thanks for watching!
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UVfVS6EV0c
Restoring, narrowing, centering and beveling an assortment of large skateboard wheels.
I got back into longboards about 6 yrs. ago as a great way to enjoy the local multi-use trail network and to get some exercise.
I used to ride my skateboard to and from college back in the day. Back then, there was little knowledge of how to set up a longboard for long distance riding. Over time, that knowledge has become available along with large diameter, super soft wheels. This allows boards to be ridden for miles and miles with ease.
Wheel trimming information:
http://www.4crawler.com/Photos/Misc/Skateboard/53.html
My LDP photo album:
http://www.4crawler.com/Photos/Misc/Skateboard/
Jame's awesome LDP resource:
http://pavedwave.org/
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
Intro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQ6XS1mDtmM
Let's take a first look at this RS485 to WiFi adapter for the EPSolar/Tracer Solar Charge Controllers.
This is a small serial port server that plugs into the RS485 comm port on the EPSolar charge controllers and provides the serial data via a WiFi (or BluetTooth with the BLE version) connection:
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Product/pro_content/id/731/am_id/139
Thanks to Adam Welch, who reviewed this converter:
https://youtu.be/iFIiDAw1R3M
I found a source for these converters on AliExpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/EPEVER-Wifi-Converter-WIFI-Serial-Servere-for-EPSOLAR-EPEVER-Inverter-and-Solar-Controller-LS-B-VS/32713191965.html
The Android app is available here:
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Technical/download
To be continued, we'll plug the adapter in to the charge controller and see if the app works next:
https://youtu.be/6qz9wkCUMnc
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzamO_StQzI
I didn't get any video of the first use of the die holder before I added the larger diameter UHMW plastic "handle". It was very hard to keep the 30mm die holder from turning while threading and left my hand and forearm very tired and sore after a few threaded ends.
For the next use, I bored out a piece of 2" (50mm) diameter UHMW rod slightly smaller in diameter than the die holder, then pressed the die holder into the plastic rod. For a little extra grip, I used a 60* threading bit turned on it's side and used that to cut shallow grooves along the side of the UHMW using the carriage.
If you're looking to do something similar, try different diameter material and find what fits your hand best. I used plastic since we use literally tons of this stuff every year. Wood might also be a good choice. Maybe a chunk of tree branch, turned down to size and bored to fit over the die holder should do the trick.
The end result is very easy to grip in my hand. It's no effort at all to thread both ends on 6 or 8 of our weighted shift rods in one run. This setup produces very clean and straight threads and it's very fast.
eBay search for "lathe die holder", this listing was similar to what I purchased:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-Tailstock-Die-Holder-in-Straight-3-8-Parallel-Shank-Holds-1-OD-Dies/332624547100
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImQ6A884rJM
Trying out the BuildTak 3D printing surface on my printer build plate.
With the boro-silicate glass build plate on the Series 1 Pro 3D printer, typically some sort of preparation needs to be applied to the surface prior to printing. For ABS, a slurry of acetone and ABS can be brushed on in a number of layers. For PLA, something like glue stick can be used. For Nylon, I found a PVA glue and water slurry worked fairly well. But in all cases, applying that surface treatment was hard to do consistently and then switching from one material to another meant cleaning the bed and reapplying a different medium. I also had noticed a few small chips in the glass surface probably caused by prints sticking too well in places the surface prep missed.
So I decided to take a look at the BuildTak material after seeing some good reviews:
https://www.buildtak.com/
I used the 12" or 300mm square material as it's the exact size of my Series 1 Pro 3D printer build plate:
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN5X07U
I also picked up a BuildTak spatula:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017XGEDOM
Installation guide:
https://youtu.be/qPobZj10AnY
So far it's working well with ABS plastic. I started out dropping my bed temps. to 90*C lowering to 80*C after 1mm. I'll post a follow up video showing what I now use for temps:
https://youtu.be/-EJmxOaoaGE
Paper towel holder files by areeve20 on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:44068
Excellent design and fits perfectly on the 2x3 roof truss next to the 3D printer.
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFIK9eILWOY
Testing the new cooling fan setup under several different load conditions.
First test was running the upright freezer all day off the inverter, typically 130W while running. With the original fan controller, the transformer hit 58C and the heat sink about 50C. With the new controller, the transformer topped out at 38C or a 20C reduction.
Second test was running 3 loads of laundry. This is a highly variable load, wash cycle is ~380W and the spin cycle is up around 500W. The power factor on this old washing machine is poor at around 0.55, so there's a lot of reactive current that the inverter has to supply. Max. temperature was 45C with an ambient temperature of 35C.
Last load was the upright freezer, which I've power factor corrected, plus 4 light bulbs for a total of 550W. In 20 minutes, the temperature rose from 42.0C to 42.8C. The ambient temperature was about 33C.
At these sorts of loads, I think this fan and controller work quite well. I can always upgrade to a higher air flow fan if needed, but this is the fan I had on-hand.
I'm looking into adding a fan RPM display when I get the rest of the Arduino-based control circuitry installed, so stay tuned for that project in the coming weeks!
Subscribe for more content like this
Feel free to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
Intro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfvSLixVD6c
Installing the LED flood light bracket, switch and sorting out the wiring.
The short flex cable off the flood light was extended with soldered connections and double heat shrink for a weather tight solution. The switch was wired in and a coax power plug connects the flood light to the power distribution panel inside the shed. This light will run off the solar battery bank at night if needed.
It casts a nice ~90* wide beam. I've adjusted it so it lights down the edge of the patio over to the fence line. Will be handy for those night runs to grab an arm full of fire wood in the winter.
Video of installing a constant current driver and eliminating the bridge rectifier and series resistor in the lamp:
https://youtu.be/5W_3y7DCLJc
This boosted the 10W (rated) lamp up to about 7.5W compared to the original ~3W output.
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ol5OP10kyyo
A quick video tip on how to create an inexpensive portable solar powered work light.
Rechargeable lantern is an old LightHawk 6V rechargeable halogen lantern I've had for many years. I recently swapped out the dead lead acid battery for a new one and installed a 74 lumen Nite Ize high output LED flashlight bulb. It works quite well for my use, but light output for shooting videos is not enough. It will run at least 24 hours on one charge, though, so will make a nice emergency light.
Powersonic PS-640F1 - 6 Volt/4.5 Amp Hour Sealed Lead Acid Battery: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ILK4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nite Ize LED Upgrade Bulb C/D High Power: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HF8ICGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The larger portable light uses an LED flood light, this one advertised as 10w cool white, but seems to be drawing 2.5w (200mA @ 12vDC) of power. I had purchased the light for another purpose, but at 2.5w it was not bright enough. The light is clamped to the handle of a 20amp-hour portable jump start battery pack from Harbor Freight with two band clamps. The flood light has a very wide dispersion angle, so it isn't fussy with having to aim it carefully.
I added a cigarette lighter cable with a co-ax power plug and in-line lamp switch and now have a working portable light. I have tried to standardize to 5.5mm x 2.1mm co-axial power plugs/jacks on all my smaller 12v devices. This way I can plug anything into any power source. The battery pack should be able to power the LED for several days straight.
I can also un-clamp the LED from the battery and use it separately. The bracket could be clamped to something or it could be attached to a block of wood if needed. And I can still carry the battery pack by the handle if I grab it from the front side.
Both lights are recharged off my solar battery bank, I often leave the jump start battery connected to the solar charge controller to keep it topped off and in good condition. I just checked and that battery pack is over 12 years old! It still holds a charge very well (oh, did I mention it's from Harbor Freight:). If I can find a nice small battery box I might look into getting a smaller 5-7AH battery and making a lighter version of this light. I did find a nice 6.8AH Li-Ion battery pack that might work well if I can find a box that will work as a base for the light. And in fact I did order one of those Li-Ion battery packs, so be sure to subscribe to the channel for updates when I get that battery hooked up to the work light. I have also torn into the power supply for this LED and I think I have an idea to re-do that to get the full 10W brightness that it is rated for.
My total cost on this was nothing, as I had all the item
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vnvx3VWDw2Q
Let's take a look at the Cliff Quicktest electrical tester and get it wired up to a US power plug.
I've always wanted an easy and safe method for working with AC powered devices and saw these Quicktest units used in the UK. It turns out you can purchase a non-corded version and add a suitable power cord.
What this unit allows you to do is quickly connect stripped wire segments into the clips on the end and then safely apply mains power to whatever is connected to the wires. It's fused inside.
Really nice unit, heavy solid construction. It is made of plastic, but that is a good thing in this case, the plastic totally encases the live connections inside in an insulated enclosure. All the electrical components seem to be made of heavy brass.
Newark product page:
http://www.newark.com/cliff-electronic-components/cl1850/electrical-tester/dp/68C8457
Bigclivedotcom's review video:
https://youtu.be/_DTmL73th7Y
Be sure to rate, comment and share.
And as always, thanks for watching!
SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFY22kP61NU