The Everyday Gourmet: Rediscovering the Lost Art of Cooking - Lesson 3: More Essential Tools - From Pots to Shears
Unless you are really careful, you can quickly become overwhelmed with too many esoteric tools, pots, and pans in the kitchen. The trick is that you don’t need a lot of tools—you just need the right tools. This lesson will help you select the tools that you need so that your kitchen becomes a friendlier, safer, more enjoyable place. The goal of this lesson is to move you toward a kitchen that works for you and for the food that you would like to cook in that kitchen.
Live-fire grilling has been around as long as human beings have been cooking food. Grilling is a dry-heat cooking technique without fat that is in the same family of cooking techniques as broiling, but rather than having heat from above, grilling uses heat from below. Grilling is also a very high-heat cooking technique, and for that reason, you can expect a lot of caramelization, or browning. With browning comes a lot of flavor, meaty flavors and even roasted flavors.
Stocks and broths are some of the most basic preparations you will find in kitchens anywhere in the world. They draw their flavor from bones, meats, and vegetables. They are easy to make and easy to store, and they are supremely versatile. You can use them for everything from making soups and sauces to cooking grains and vegetables. In addition to helping you master the technique, this lesson will help you understand how stocks are categorized based on the ingredients that give them flavor and on their method of preparation.
Pastry doughs fall into two main categories that are defined by their textures: crumbly or flaky. In our first lesson, we discussed crumbly doughs made by the creaming method, which is how butter is distributed evenly throughout a dough. In this lesson, we’ll see how to make a flaky dough using the rubbed-in dough method, and we’ll learn how to make the two most common types of rubbed-in doughs, those for piecrusts and biscuits.
As the name suggests, combination cooking involves combining more than one cooking technique; specifically, it involves combining dry-heat cooking with fat and moist-heat cooking in the forms of braising and stewing. Braising is typically reserved for larger cuts of tough meat—either portion sized or multi-portion sized. Stewing, on the other hand, is typically reserved for bite-sized pieces of meat. Stewing also requires more liquid than braising. Beyond these two differences, the techniques are almost interchangeable.
For many people, the excitement in baking lies in making different types of cakes, and whether it’s a humble pound cake or the most show-stopping wedding cake, all cakes are made with just a few basic mixing methods. In the last lesson, we saw the creaming method of mixing, in which air is incorporated into butter; once that air is exposed to heat, it expands, causing the cake to rise. In this lesson, we’ll look at two additional methods of mixing—the combination method and the foaming method—and we’ll apply these in making a devil’s food, a chiffon, and an angel food cake.
Pâte à choux, or choux paste, is one of the classic doughs. Although it’s sometimes called cream puff pastry, it actually has many other applications. The same dough can be used to make cream puffs, chocolate éclairs, profiteroles, and even profiteroles that might be fashioned into a glorious croquembouche. The method for making pâte à choux is unique in that it’s a twice-cooked pastry dough. In this lesson, we’ll learn how to make that dough, as well as a cream for filling your pastries and two glazes for topping them.
The Everyday Gourmet: Baking Pastries and Desserts
Lesson 1: Handle with Care - Basic Doughs
Many people are interested in learning how to bake, but they’re intimidated because they think baking is too complicated or scientific. In these lessons, we’ll learn that there is science behind baking, but once you understand this science—what happens when you over-aerate a custard or what chemical reaction takes place when baking soda is mixed with cocoa powder—you’ll get much better results. These lessons include techniques, ingredient lists, and instructions for making a variety of desserts, dessert toppings, and quick breads, as well as tips for figuring out what may have gone right or wrong with your finished products. This first lesson begins with an overview of basic doughs for cookies and pound cake.
The sweet corn we know today evolved from a wild grass known as teosinte, a long stalk with a few grains at the end. The indigenous people of Central America crossbred the corn to give us the cobs that we know today, with row upon row of sweet kernels all packaged in a husk. Corn is a great success story. It has traveled around the globe, and it is estimated that a quarter of the calories humankind consumes can be traced back to corn, in such foods as corn sweeteners, corn flour, polenta, grits, and cornstarch.
Stir-frying is nothing more than sautéing with a Chinese passport; it involves dry-heat cooking with fat. Everything you have already learned about sautéing can be brought to bear on stir-frying in this lesson. French chef Fernand Point said that success in the kitchen is really the result of a lot of small things properly done, and that’s the mindset that you need to have when you stir-fry. The process of stir-frying unfolds quickly, but if you pay attention to the details and focus on your technique, you will create a wonderful stir-fry dish.