There are 4 basic types of electrical testers that every electrician needs to know how to use, in this video we're going to cover what they are, and how to use them.
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I had a really good question asked to me through email the other day so I thought I would take a few minutes to answer it in a video rather than brutalizing my fingertips for an hour.
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Thank you Tommy for writing in. I hope this answers your question...I mean it took me 20 minutes to answer lol...really, I hope I answered it.
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We have talked about series and parallel circuits. But have you ever wondered how a series circuit works or what it even is? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin covers part 3 of our topic on circuits- Combination Circuits!
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A combination circuit is simply a circuit that has properties of both series circuits and parallel circuits within it. And, remembering that trying to figure out values for Voltage, Amperage, Resistance, and Power each require different formulas depending on what type of circuit it is. So, the easiest way to calculate values for these in a Combination Circuit is to simply start adding all the groupings of parallel circuits resistances together (this will need to be done a few times depending on how many there are) until we are left with a simple series circuit!
Let’s review the rules. Voltage- in a series circuit voltage is dropped across each resistance while in a parallel circuit it’s constant. Current- in a series circuit current is constant but is proportional to the resistance in a parallel circuit. Resistance- in a series circuit resistance is the sum of all the resistances while in a parallel circuit it is the inverse. The formula for wattage in a series circuit Pt=I squared x Rt and in a parallel circuit its P=E squared/Rt.
Let’s do one. Say we have a 100v power source and a combination circuit of 7 loads with the following resistances- R1-1, R2-2, R3-3, R4-4, R5-4, R6-3, R7-2. R6 & R7 are in parallel with each other, R4 & R5 are in parallel with each other, and those 4 are in parallel with R3. We will add R4 & R5, R6 & R7, and then add those together and then add it to R3. Since each set has only 2 resistances, we can use the product over sum method. Adding R4 & R5 we wind up with 1.7 ohms. Adding R6 & R7 we end up with 1.2 ohms and adding those together we have 2.9 ohms. Now we can add R3 and R4567 and have an end result of 1.18 ohms! Now we have 3 loads in series with one another and can complete our calculations!
The total resistance of our circuit is the sum of all the resistances- 1 + 1.18 + 3= 5.18 ohms. The total amperage of our circuit is the voltage divided by the total resistance- 100/5.18 ohms or 19.3 amps. Voltage is dropped across each load and is equal to the source voltage. The formula is amperage multiplied by the resistance = voltage. R1- 19.3 x 1= 19.3v. R2- 19.3 x 1.18= 22.8v. R3- 19.3 x 3= 57.9v. Add those together and we have 100v or our source voltage! Lastly, we have the power to work out. Amperage x the voltage of each load = the power consumption of each and we would add those 3 values to get our total circuit power. P1- 19.3 x 19.3= 372.5w. P2- 19.3 x 22.8= 440w. P3- 19.3 x 57.9= 1117.5w. And our total power for the entire circuit is the additive of these. 372.5w+440w+1117.5W=1930w.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding how combination circuits work. Make sure to check out the other 2 videos for Series Circuits and Parallel Circuits! Both are super helpful in understanding how each one works and how they come together in a Combination Circuit! Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin Stelzer and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #parallel #circuit #voltage #current #resistance #power
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Pre-twisting your joints under a wire nut has been and continues to be an ongoing debate amongst most electricians for years. Some tradesmen do and some don’t. So, which is the correct way to do it? In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin sheds some light on the subject.
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The topic of pre-twisting your wires prior to putting a wire connector on has been one of the most widely debated practices in the electrical industry. And it continues to be one to this day! On one half of the divide are the tradesmen/electrical contractors that say that pre-twisting your wires will make a solid connection even when the wire connector is removed. On the other half of the fence are the tradesmen/electrical contractors that say pre-twisting your wires is a complete waste of time. With 2 clear lines drawn in the sand, how do we know which is actually the proper way to make up our wires?
To start the debate, let’s talk about the wire connectors themselves. Wire connectors of past years were not made the same as they are today. I think we have all been there- out on a service call trying to troubleshoot something only to find that there was an old wirenut that had loose conductors within it that dropped power to some device. Expansion and contraction of the wire from being energized/deenergized, stuff being plugged in and out could have the wires worked loose if you didn’t twist them together really well. But todays wirenuts will actually twist the wires much better than the old ones did. You can strip your wires, put the wirenut on, and when you remove it, your wires will be reasonably twisted together. Today also, we use a lot of pressure type wire connectors (push in type) that actually do not spin the wires at all.
On the other hand, as we have all been there too, trying to add or rework something where someone had twisted the wires together can be a time-consuming process. Having to untwist the wire bundle to add or remove a conductor and then having to straighten all the stripped wire out can be a royal pain! And again, many wire connections today rely on pressure type connectors and not a twist-on type wire connector and require no twisting at all, which results in a much faster installation.
In the end, it comes down to personal (or corporate) preference. Many of us become very proficient at the art of twisting the wires and the amount of time added is negligible when compared to the solid connection we get. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific type of wire connector you are using also. If the instructions tell you to pre-twist the wires, then pre-twist them. If it does not specifically tell you, then do what you, as a professional tradesman, feel gives you the most solid connection. The end result should be a joint that won't unintentionally come apart and will stay a solid connection.
We hope this has been an insightful look into the argument of whether to pre-twist your wires or not to pre-twist your wires. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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If you're about to get into the commercial electrical career path, there are some materials you should become accustomed to. The better you understand what we work with the easier you'll know the jargon we use, and what we're talking about.
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0:54 - 1900 BOX
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Voltage is an electromotive force created by a difference of potential. Therefore the terms voltage and difference of potential can be interchangeably used.
The term "difference of potential" is often used in describing the ability of an electric circuit to create movement. Just like in Physics you have potential energy and kinetic energy, in electricity you can describe the phenomena the same.
Electric current flows by making a circuit have a potential difference at the source. Then by connecting those two potentials with a conductor (wire), you're able to make a strong current of electrons flood through the conductor from the source, back to the source.
A battery has two different types of metal inside of it. One piece is made of a material that freely gives up electrons, and the other freely receives electrons. Just the ability for these two pieces of metal to have a relationship of proximity, is enough to capture and utilize the atomic energy they create.
Another good example is lightning. When the clouds fill up with positive charges, and the air closer to the ground has more negative charges a discharge of electric energy will occur. There is a difference of potential between the clouds and the ground, so current can flow. After a thunderstorm has passed the charges equalize and everything goes back to being the same potential.
You can think of electricity similarly as you'd think of water. Electricity flows and has a current, as does water. There's a pressure to that current depending on the voltage, or difference of potential, of the source...just as water uses the difference of potential created by gravity and height. Water flowing down a small slide will flow gently. Water flowing down Niagra Falls will kill you. Both the difference of potential as well as the current (or amount of flow) increases dramatically.
In order for electricity to work, there has to be movement. Static electricity still needs movement to occur in order to discharge and equalize charges. The only way that movement becomes useful is once there is a difference of potential present. That is what voltage is all about.
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**Disclaimer - These videos are for training purposes alone, all work done on electrical systems should be done by a licensed and insured electrical contractor. If you are not an electrician, do not attempt any of the work you are seeing in these videos.**
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The NEC is the book we, as electricians, use as a guideline to install our work. It tells us the minimums and maximums for the applications. But the code can be confusing at times, especially if you are new to the trade. In this latest episode of Electrician U, and part 3 of the Confusing Code Terms series, Dustin explains a few of the terms within the codebook to bring some light (pun intended) to the topics!
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Overcurrent Protection Device (OCPD) is simply a device that provides equipment with protection from the damages of too much current (amperage). The two most recognizable being breakers and fuses. When a breaker senses that there is more current on the circuit than it is rated for, the contacts open and the current ceases to flow to the equipment. For a fuse, when more current is flowing through the fuse than it is rated for, the fuse blows, the circuit to the equipment becomes open, and current flow stops.
Overvoltage Protection is just that; it provides a piece of equipment protection from the damaging effects of having too much voltage applied to it. Surge protectors are what comes to mind when we talk about overvoltage protection. When the device senses too much current flow through it, just like a breaker, it opens the circuit creating a buffer between the offending voltage and device plugged into it. Damaging surges can happen within the specific electrical system itself or they can happen from the utility side. Note, surge protection should NOT be confused with lightning protection as that is something completely different!
Tamper Resistant Receptacles are next. This is a standard receptacle
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