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6 Nov 2020 02:55:59 UTC
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Author: Bee Wilson
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Bad food has a history. Swindled tells it. Through a fascinating mixture of cultural and scientific history, food politics, and culinary detective work, Bee Wilson uncovers the many ways swindlers have cheapened, falsified, and even poisoned our food throughout history. In the hands of people and corporations who have prized profits above the health of consumers, food and drink have been tampered with in often horrifying ways--padded, diluted, contaminated, substituted, mislabeled, misnamed, or otherwise faked. Swindled gives a panoramic view of this history, from the leaded wine of the ancient Romans to todays food frauds--such as fake organics and the scandal of Chinese babies being fed bogus milk powder.Wilson pays special attention to nineteenth- and twentieth-century America and England and their roles in developing both industrial-scale food adulteration and the scientific ability to combat it. As Swindled reveals, modern science has both helped and hindered food fraudsters--increasing the sophistication of scams but also the means to detect them. The big breakthrough came in Victorian England when a scientist first put food under the microscope and found that much of what was sold as genuine coffee was anything but--and that you couldnt buy pure mustard in all of London.Arguing that industrialization, laissez-faire politics, and globalization have all hurt the quality of food, but also that food swindlers have always been helped by consumer ignorance, Swindled ultimately calls for both governments and individuals to be more vigilant. In fact, Wilson suggests, one of our best protections is simply to reeducate ourselves about the joys of food and cooking.**From Publishers WeeklyStarred Review. Columnist and food writer Wilson takes readers to the beginning of the 19th century to document the history of food adulteration--at heart two very simple principles poisoning and cheating. concentrating on Britain and the U.S. (other countries, especially France, navigated food supply industrialization with wiser government policy), Wilson finds the first food crusader in Frederick Accum, a German immigrant who used chemistry to expose the dishonesty of London food purveyors in his treatise on adulterations of food and culinary poisons she finds the first ineffective government response in Parliaments commitment to laissez faire economic policies over citizen safety. In the U.S., New Yorks 1850s swill milk epidemic and Chicagos meat packing industry would eventually lead to the 1906 Pure Food and Drug act--which probably wouldnt have passed without the popularity of Upton Sinclairs meat packing expose The Jungle, and couldnt stop the most nefarious and prevalent of food frauds, the development of fake foods margarine, baby formula and thousands more. Wilson follows the economic, cultural and political threads skillfully, reporting on developments as recent as the China baby formula scandal. Prescribing more awareness and regulation, Wilson contends that consumers and governments must recognize the continuous pressure on companies to make money by substituting nutritious, genuine ingredients with adulterants. Timely, witty and purposeful, this thorough history should open a lot of eyes, and close some mouths. Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. From The New Yorker With the revelations in recent months of tainted foodsalmonella-infected jalapeos, melamine-laced milkWilsons latest treatise, on contaminated, adulterated, and fake foods in the modern era, feels almost prophetic. If theres a whiff of pedantry to the enterprise, Wilson overwhelms it with sheer detail the flavor of lead salts, so delicious that they were used to sweeten wine the fad for mock food in wartime Britain (mock chops made of flour, potato, and onion) the fact that Campbells concealed marbles in the soup photographed for advertisements, to make it look thicker Donald Rumsfelds role as a champion of aspartame. No government intervention can solve the problem, Wilson concludes, without consumer reducation in how real food tastes. Buy food fresh, in whole form, she writes. Cook it yourself and familiarize yourself with the ingredients that go into proper food, so that when you are served a fake you will know the difference, and have the confidence to complain. 2008 Click here to subscribe to The New Yorker
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