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An uneven disc plate can cause you many troubles - hard both warm and cold starts, detonations, vacuum leaks and bad engine performance overall. If you drive your car on LPG or the LPG mixture is not correct there are many possibilities that you have detonations. If you have had them already, consider checking your disc plate if it still slides smoothly. In this video learn how to straighten it if you out of any reason have an uneven disc. It's not an easy task, there are many many screws in front of you and many many components to take off the unit, a long lastinig job in front of you but don't give up, this is A MUST if you experience this kind of an issue. The job is not complicated in general you just need patience to complete it. But there must be no rubbing sound heard as the disk plate is being deflected!
#fixyourmercedes##kejetronicdiy##airflowmetersensorplate#
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This topic is closely related to how to find vacuum leaks, so if you have those issues, click on the link below to find out about the most simple way EVER how to find vacuum leaks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7EWUMv5yDw
On how to understand the way Ke-Jetronic works click on the link below about the BEST EXPLANATION EVER on this system
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XeDlEjx5pc
On how to repair each of the components click on the link below - THE BEST EXPLANATION EVER!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQtCI1-Wm_o&t=17s
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKw7oHa7KPI
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Another of my series on KE-Jetronic (The CIS-E) tutorials
Find out what is a fuel pressure regulator and what it does, why is it so important!
As soon as the system pressure drops after some 200k kilometers (125k miles) it has to be reset to its factory specifications if possible. This video explains the way it should be done. If it is not possible then the regulator must be replaced. If you have a gas leak on the vacuum line be sure that your Fuel Pressure Regulator is bad and must be replaced!
For any questions feel free to ask ;-)
The goal of my videos is to teach people how to diagnose and repair their issues without paying money for the work and for the part in the repair shops - the spare part they have to buy and it's up to them whether they are going to buy used or new one, a branded or unbranded one.
That's why I provide people with reference numbers of all the parts so that people can use them to buy the parts themselves and not for someone to earn money on them.
Although my narration is in Serbian you can watch my videos on your PC or laptop and you have English translation and therefore the translation in any language that is your native
#kejetronic# #fuelpressureregulator# #cismercedesw124#
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Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
0:04 - 0:22 About the Video
0:23 - 0:44 Sluggish acceleration
0:46 – 0:50 The fuel pressure regulator as priority
0:51 – 1:26 Unboxing the FPR and its reference number
1:27 – 2:48 The description of the FPR
2:49 – 3:11 What happens after some 125k miles
3:12 – 3:39 The return line and 4,5mm allen screw
3:40 – 4:53 T27 torx as replacement for 4,5mm allen
4:54 – 5:09 The KE-Jetronic in brief
5:10 - 5:54 Fuel pressure adjustment
5:55 – 7:03 Fuel pressure specifications
7:04 – 7:40 The calibration procedure
7:41 – 8:05 The Like, share, comment, subscribe
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jqd6oPDbq8c
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#fixyourmercedes##mercedeskejetronic##fuelaccumulatorcheck#
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What am I talking about?
My topic is the KE-Jetronic injection system which I try to demystify as much as I can.
For all of you to understand the system in brief - Developed in 1973 and being mounted into cars up to 1993 as it went in history. But why these to letters!?(KE) K(from German "kontinuierlich" meaning continuos, without interruption) the MECHANICAL injection system on which the fuel starts flowing from the fuel tank sucked by the FUEL PUMP and delivered to the FUEL DISTRIBUTOR which sends fuel to the INJECTORS while the majority of it flows through the FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR through its return line back to the fuel tank again. The letter E(electronic) has to mark the electronic sensors (the developement starting from early eighties) which had to inform the ECU about the current state of the engine so that the ECU(Electronic Control Unit) then could create current signal in mAmp(miliampers) and send it to four crucial components for the system - the EHA(the electro-hydraulic actuator,a unit consisting of a magnet, an electromagnet and a baffle plate) which had to fine tune the engine in each of its phases, the ICV(the idle control valve), the unit which was predicted for the engines perfect idle, the X11(the diagnostic socket) where the duty cycle(the ideal mixture) was adjusted and the X11/4(the code reader) - the socket which from any codes were read if present using an OBD1 scanner.
An extraordinary injection system which could be fully repaired in your own garage using a multimeter and a pressure gauge only for its fine tuning, together with some common tools.
"Happy Mercedesing"
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5e8HXtiMso
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While waiting for the next video to be uploaded I decided to make a quick jesting video while "inspecting" good cables. This video had to be done in total darkness for a spark to be able to be seen easier. And if you like humor I believe you will find this funny jesting video cool. Cables are an important part of the ignition on any petrol engine no matter if it uses mechanical like k(e)-jetronic, d-jetronic or l-jetronic or any other type of electrical injection or it's a carburated engine, no matter, the cables play an enormously big role so therefore there must be no sparks coming out of them. The video had to be recorded in a total darkness because of the visual inspection. Bad cables can affect your engine performance and make your car running poor. Always check your cables, they have to be replaced each 90k miles/150k km. If you haven't replaced them consider checking them and replacing if there is a need for that. You must make sure that all the current coming out of the ignition coil reaches your spark plugs in order to ignite the fuel mixture.
Music - Milan Nikolic Stublinac - Struja kolo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOitTNPCiBI
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f69S9OI-NY4
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Temperature switch replacement video. An easy job but the task of the video is to exchange opinions in order to see which switch is the most suitable for the car - the one with the lower switching point or with the higher one. This one is from Behr, TSW 5D switching at 85°C(185°F).
Although, I still keep my trusty wire if anything suspicious happens ;-)
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Timecodes
0:00 - Intro
0:04 - 0:20 About the Video
0:21 - 0:59 Which one to buy
1:00 – 1:21 Types of switches
1:22 – 1:45 Let me know about your choice
1:46 – 1:58 My reasons for the replacement
1:59 – 2:41 AN IMPORTANT WARNING!!!
2:42 – 4:16 The replacement procedure
4:17 – 4:53 Like, share, comment, subscribe
#w124# #temperatureswitch# #behrtemperatureswitch#
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbBjlzfk3lk
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Everything what you should know about the fuel distributor before disassembling it. This is the heart of the system called K(E)-Jetronic. The part is very complex and you need to know what you can should and what you mustn't do at any cost! If you replaced all the parts on the injection system and you still have a high consumption, bad idle, low power, shaky running engine or internal leaks and you can smell fuel in the engine bay, if the plunger is stuck(the sensor plate won't go down or get back up), if you turned the CO(mixture) screw counterclockwise to the max and you still have fuel flow or you bridged the contacts 7&8, you unscrewed the metal hoses from the distributor and you get fuel flow coming out of the ports without deflecting the sensor plate then you should know that it's time to disassemble the fuel distributor in order to clean it, replace the ruptured diaphragm, the o-rings inside of the barrel, on and in the lower chamber of the distributor etc.
WARNING - YOU ARE DOING THIS JOB AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE DAMAGES ON YOUR CAR IF THEY ARE CAUSED WATCHING THIS VIDEO!!!
#fueldistributor#
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfTpeBAT420
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¿De qué estoy hablando?
Mi tema es el sistema de inyección KE-Jetronic que trato de desmitificar tanto como puedo.
Para que todos ustedes entiendan el sistema en breve - Desarrollado en 1973 y montado en autos hasta 1993 como sucedió en la historia. ¿¡Pero por qué estas letras!? (KE) K (del alemán "kontinuierliche Einspritzung" que significa inyección continua, sin interrupción) el sistema de inyección MECÁNICO en el que el combustible comienza a fluir desde el tanque de combustible aspirado por la BOMBA DE COMBUSTIBLE y entregado al DISTRIBUIDOR DE COMBUSTIBLE que envía combustible a los INYECTORES mientras que la mayor parte fluye a través del REGULADOR DE PRESIÓN DE COMBUSTIBLE a través de su línea de retorno de regreso al tanque de combustible nuevamente. La letra E (elektronische Gemischanpassung/adaptación de mezcla controlada electrónicamente) tiene que marcar los sensores electrónicos (el desarrollo a partir de principios de los años ochenta) que tenían que informar a la ECU sobre el estado actual del motor para que la ECU (Unidad de control electrónico) pudiera crear una señal de corriente en mA (miliamperios) y enviarla a cuatro componentes cruciales para el sistema: el EHA (el actuador electrohidráulico, una unidad que consta de un imán, un electroimán y una placa deflectora) que tuvo que ajustar el motor en cada una de sus fases, la ICV (la válvula de control de ralentí), la unidad que estaba prevista para el ralentí perfecto de los motores, la X11 (la toma de diagnóstico) donde se ajustaba el ciclo de trabajo (la mezcla ideal) y la X11/4 (la lector de códigos) - el zócalo del cual se leyeron los códigos, si los hubo, usando un escáner OBD1.
Un extraordinario sistema de inyección que podría repararse íntegramente en tu propio taller utilizando un multímetro y un manómetro solo para su puesta a punto, junto con algunas herramientas comunes.
"Feliz Mercedesando"
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H18lVN43Q1M