I've taken all the floodlights to bits, so I might as well take one of the PIR sensors to bits too. Mainly to see how "waterproof" it is and how the mains side of things is handled.
It took me by surprise with a very odd bridge rectifier arrangement that serves both to rectify the supply and also to clamp the capacitor limited supply down to about 24V. It took me a moment to get my head round what it was actually doing. It's basically using two back-to-back zeners to shunt the AC supply to 24V while also rectifying it! The stand-by dissipation in the circuit is around 1W and I'm guessing that a lot of it is actually in those zeners, so I suppose by sharing the load between two operating on alternate cycles keeps them cooler. Other than that it generates a smooth 5V supply from the main 24v one using a resistor and 5V zener, and then uses a common LP8072C PIR controller chip with associated circuitry to switch a 24V relay. The circuit appears to have a design oddity. There is a small snubber network (quenches sparks and interference across switch contacts) but instead of connecting it across the relay contacts they have connected it across the load. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlSWDH8m8tM
The cheap Chinese quad/scooter wiring loom yields another treasure for our exploration. The starter solenoid. It's internal operation is different to what I was expecting. In hindsight I guess the way it works allows it to "bang" the contacts apart when turned off, to prevent them sticking.
This is the bit that sometimes fails, making loud clicking noises when your car's starter motor is supposed to be turning over. A sharp blow with the handle of a large screwdriver can sometimes get you back in action temporarily.
The coil is controlled from your start button/key and switches the high current required by the starter motor.
The solenoid coil seemed OK on 6V (1.75A) and 12V (3A), but has a low duty cycle for thermal reasons, so is not suited for continuous operation.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9hVt9gMiN8
While it's commendable that Apple introduced style to humble things like USB chargers, it's not so commendable that the inevitable clones tried to jam all the required circuitry into a tiny plug and sell it for a pound/dollar/euro.
This charger was bought from a high street store in Glasgow. An independent Asian pound shop (UK dollar store) that I actually like a lot, but this shouldn't really be on their shelves.
Most high profile pound shops charge around £2 for a basic charger and they are generally OK. But even the bigger names like Pound World (Now called One Below) fell foul of selling dangerous chargers. Their current offering does look safer, but Poundland is still the king for better quality tech.
I personally use an IKEA USB charger for all my tech. (Not a sponsor.) With a genuine Motorola charger for battery capacity tests. (Also not a sponsor.)
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Don't buy cheap power supplies. Only buy them from prominent brands with a reputation to protect. That includes ASDA and Walmart. A USB charger is an essential part of modern living, and plugging your £$€1000 smartphone/tablet into a £$€1 charger is basically a death wish for you and your tech.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwEh4jsVew0
A bit of electronic treasure from the past. I bought this unique little rechargeable flashlight from a long gone (and much missed) shop in Glasgow called RME. The RME stood for Radio, Mechanical and Electrical, and it was a surplus and salvage store based in Howard Street in Glasgow, Scotland.
What made this little flashlight appealing was that it was rechargeable directly from the 240V mains supply with a standard figure-8 style mains connector. I was very intrigued by how they had managed to fit a charging circuit inside such a small light. keep in mind that this was from the 1980's so it seemed a remarkable electronic feat.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpMlDZ5lx0k
This was a lot of fun to reverse engineer. Mainly because it's very old-school inside. It's an automatic changeover switch for a backup generator supply. When power fails and the generator starts, the switch will automatically transfer over to the generator. When the power returns it will switch back over to the main supply.
The issue with the relay being energised all the time and to make it generator-priority could be addressed by simply swapping the sides the main and generator power are attached to. That way the generator would take priority in the event of a power failure and not switch back until it was turned off, and the relay would only be energised when the generator was running.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=babtv00R-Nc
I've never really explored a ceramic tap/faucet insert before. The two faces felt sticky like plastic, but I'm not sure if that's an actual coating or if they are just machined so smooth that they adhere.
This device is also "lockable", but not in a secure sense. It will definitely deter casual tampering, but is actually very easy to pick.
Worth exploring. It's a very simple design. I think it's 1/2" BSP.
Here's an eBay search link to find similar taps.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=lockable+garden+faucet&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15
Target price for similar taps/faucets is around $6.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnXIDkI8-fg
Poundland has had USB powered LED tape in the past, but this new version has an inline PIR sensor with standard power jacks on either side.
The bit that really caught my attention was the wide voltage range of the sensor, making it suitable for 5V, 12V and 24V applications.
Here's a link to a datasheet for the unusual BS612 integrated PIR sensor:-
http://www.image.micros.com.pl/_dane_techniczne_auto/cz%20as612.pdf
Although everything is integrated into a 6-pin PIR package, it still allows adjustment of the dusk level and time delay.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVdsiXrCBlw
I've used these in the past, and marvelled at how they can withstand such a high voltage in such a small component. I decided to take one apart to see how it's made. I ended up taking more than one apart.
The construction is surprisingly simple, with a very retro alternative to resin potting.
The alternative triggering circuits I mentioned sometimes use the thyristor pulling the transformer common connection to the zero volt rail, or put the capacitor where I drew the thyristor and a sidac in series with the primary.
I dug out a more accurate set of calipers and remeasured the wires. Both transformers had a 0.28mm diameter (29AWG?) primary wire and a 0.12mm diameter (36AWG?) secondary wire.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdLO4HhcDXY
Full assembly of a typical eBay digital clock kit with case.
This is a nice kit to build. It's a very good example of circuitry that can be powered by a common 5V USB power supply, and even has a proper dedicated clock chip with battery backup.
There's a slight blip in the video where the power connector is soldered on, because I didn't realise that I'd reached a file size/video length limit and the camera stopped and restarted automatically.
Here's a general purpose link to find various similar clock kits on eBay:-
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=digital+microcontroller+clock&_sop=15
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ty5Bnj2XqE
Taking apart and fixing a faulty snow machine that was tripping the breaker with a loud electrical pop from inside.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrY51IPfDQs