Midi Converted CDJ 1000 - New boards and record function.
Although they are not final versions I did find someone who could make up the larger boards quite cheap although the shipping was quite high. I have 5 boards to play with and I plan to make up 3 for the mk1, 2 and mk3 models. I have a old pitch in this one and the centre is off, but I have a newer one in the mk3 and that is perfect. I also brought a brand new pitch to test in the mk2. I am trying some Panasonic tactile switches instead of the original pioneer and so far they are just as good for a 3rd of the price. I am working on software at the moment and just trying to get them to feel like the cdj do, but it's all just time. The board design was good and I have fixed any problems I found along the way. My future plans are to get the record working for multiple recordings and also I am looking at tft screens. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZxglNNLu-8
After my experience cutting the recess for the speaker grill I wanted to make some templates so I went to the local hack space to use the laser cutter. I had to redo the one for the mini marquee, but the handle and groove turned out just fine.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h6fDfKewveY
This is a bit of a slow one, I never tried to take a cassette player apart with the intention of putting it back together.
After the first clean and I get the FF to work I did a load of research into how they Atari tapes worked, looked at the XC12 circuit diagram and downloaded some tapes in wav format. I find that the data goes on the right side and plain audio on the left. As we see I play the tape back in a audio player and it looks and sounds good. I didn't show that I recorded the wav tape I download and tried playing that back because it didn't work and was just too long. While doing lots of testing I hooked up my scope to the tape audio in, tape data in and ground to look at the signals from the tape to the computer and all of a sudden the hum I had when the tape motor was running stopped and the audio from the tape was clean. After a bit more messing about and finding that if I touched the RF shield the hum also went away I wondered if any of the caps was causing the ground problem. Lucky I had the correct 220uf and 4.7uf caps and so I swapped them for new ones. That was it, it fixed the audio hum and I could save and load basic programs. As you can see I was very happy to have this working.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdaQND27AEo
After a lot of testing I have a reliable routing that can heat up the toaster over without going over the target temperature. I take the difference between the target temperature and the starting temperature and convert it into a percentage. when the heating starts we are at 100% and the heating will stay on for a set time period and the software will then wait for this to stabilise for a set time before heating again. Depending on the percentage I have split the heating into zones that gradually heat the elements less while waiting longer for the temperature to stabilise. All of these options can be tweaked to speed up or slow down the heating times. I have tested this upto 160 degree C so far with the same results so I am very happy and can now start to work on the reflow curve before actually trying a reflow of a PCB..
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-RRP0lHd-Ic
If you want to help me with any of my projects I setup https://www.paypal.com/paypalme2/leelegionsmith, Any help would be appriciated especially towards the Midi CDJ conversion.
We are getting closer to inserting the teensy and powering it up, but first lets check nothing is going to produce the magic smoke. I need to look at Hot Cue A yellow before the next video, but everything else is looking good. The testing on the female headers shows why I think it's important to use them otherwise we would have to test this with the teensy and if we did have problems it could damage it.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJ1nrVqR-MQ
First a quick note to say I have new stock of the led mini marquee kits.
Next I have two new options for saving games. One allows PCMCIA cards to be inserted into MVS 4 and 6 Slots without the MV-IC boards and cables. Then I have my own version of a NVRAM board that you can save games to direct. Both are now on my shop at
http://www.neogeoledmarquee.info/shop
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaDK1DTQwhQ
If you want to help me with any of my projects I setup https://www.paypal.com/paypalme2/leelegionsmith, Any help would be appriciated especially towards the Midi CDJ conversion.
This is a video showing how I assemble the PCB for my Neo Geo Led Mini Marquee kits. Each PCB has 20 LED modules joined with a V-Groove. PCBWAY was very helpful and made sure the new order matched my stencil from the previous order. After these tests I will separate the 20 smaller PCB and check again before they are glued into the panels and then tested for the last time. It's a long boring job, but is just my time and was way way cheaper than the price PCBWAY quoted to assembly for me.
All the music is by Joakim Karud http://youtube.com/joakimkarud
for more info in the Neo Geo Kits go to http://www.neogeoledmarquee.info
PCBWAY https://www.pcbway.com/setinvite.aspx?inviteid=57192/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IM_niTn8iwE
I have taken a few of the common problems from the first version of the control board and made some improvements. If you have the the existing ELA board and data lead you can just swap this over without the need to take 12v from the PSU. I also added new test options and if anyone wants to upgrade the old control board please get in touch.
I still have a few of the LED boards left so if anyone is looking to replace broken or missing EL panels on any Neo Geo cab please visit
www.neogeoledmarquee.info
thanks
Lee
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMKVIfyEOWE
midi mapped vu levels from traktor scratch using teensy 3.2 and adafruit neo pixel sticks.
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1426
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eS-iOm7AFo
If you want to help me with any of my projects I setup https://www.paypal.com/paypalme2/leelegionsmith, Any help would be appriciated especially towards the Midi CDJ conversion.
I have made a start converting a dead cdj 1000 mk1 or mk2 to a traktor compatible midi device. I just have the pitch to wire in and then send the midi command, but all the buttons and leds are working. When I have all the details sorted I will make a series of videos showing how to do this on a MK3 so you could try this your self.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itK_LvHFsFg