I won't lie about this - I had no intentions of trying this one. I did all of the new slab problems up to the V5, but had no intention of going higher than that because slab scares me... like... a lot. But, as it usually goes, one of my friends with whom I was climbing said I should still give it a try, so off I went. Much to my disbelief (multiple times on the wall even), I sent it on my second try.
This V7 slab is a fantatsic set. It has nothing but bad and unstable hand holds (*really* bad) with which I am mostly comfortable practicing. The thing that scares me about slab climbing is the higher grades have lots of those really bad duotex foot chips. This one had pretty okay foot slopers (???). Basically they were smooth and rounded foot chips, so they comforted my mind a bit more so I pressed on. This problem relied heavily on balance, so much so that even inhaling too much would push you off the wall. A super fun problem to work out!
I'm not sure what this one is actually rated because it was on one of my gym's competition walls, which they leave unrated. Given how long I had to work on it, how technical the moves are, and where I normally climb at (I can get about 50% of V6's within a few tries at this point), I'm guessing this was a V7. The wall is tilted at about a 30 degree angle, and is completely smooth, so you can barely smear it. The top left holds are fairly smooth sloper/pinches as well that offer almost no help if you aren't directly underneath them (hence the trouble I was having on this one).
This one took me probably four or so hours to figure out, spread across maybe 6 sessions and a month of time? To be honest, I lost track of time on this one because I had given up, but decided to come back one last time when I finally figured it out (after probably 5 more attempts).
If you watch what I was doing in the first 4 clips, you may notice I was stablizing the last move by bicycling the big foot hold to the left. This had the unfortunate effect of causing you to barn door as soon as you moved for the last hold on the top right. After spending _a lot_ of time on this, on one attempt I happened to feel a move accidentally which ended up working great! It turns out if you "leg jam" the lower foothold by placing your right leg between the hold and the wall, pressing your shin into the hold, and twisting your foot/toe into the wall, the last move becomes incredibly stable. Once you have the last hold in hand, it's a simple move to stand on the volumes, flag, and send! ?
Once again, thanks to the Earth Treks Englewood problem setters for yet another fantastic problem!
I worked on this one for a few days. It was located on what is referred to as "the 45", which is a wall tilted at 45 degrees inward. The problem consisted mostly of jugs and pinches, but the last move was the real trick: a dyno to the last hold from about 9 feet up, up and back at 45 degrees. Definitely a mental crux!
This was such a cool competition boulder, and it was even tagged like a comp!
I originally approached this one with no expectations of being able to do it. But once I tried it, I just had to keep working on it until I got it. I wasn't convinced I could do it until working on it for about three weeks.
Some cool features of this problem are that there are only two very small screw on holds throughout the entire problem. Everything else is 100% volumes! What's not to love?! Also, you may notice I completely let go with my hands at one point. After a couple of weeks of working on the boulder, I discovered a really fantastic knee-bar that's so stable you only need the one leg to stay on. The trick is of course, getting out of the knee bar and into the next move without falling off.
Overall, it took be about 4 weeks to send this; maybe 4-6 hours across 8 sessions working on it. I've got scars still healing on my wrists from the start still! ?
Super thanks to the problem setters at Earth Treks Englewood for this one! This is one of my favorite boulders, if not my most favorite!
I always love it when our problem setters set more advanced techniques on easier problems so those of us who aren't super great at bouldering (yet!) can practice those techniques in increasing difficulty.
This is another example of that. The setters put a V4 dyno on the slightly inverted (probably 20 or 30 degrees) wall next to our arch (to the left). It's a dyno up and out to a jug hold. The holds are all great, but you need to control momentum or you'll slide right off the target hold. Great dyno practice!
This V6 was truly a fantastic problem. When I first saw this, I was almost completely certain I'd never send it.
I learned a lot about dead pointing from this one. If you jump with too little movement, you won't reach the holds or get enough traction. If you overshoot it, you have to stop your downward momentum, and the holds aren't good enough to do that. This problem took me I think three weeks to send. Absolutely a great set by the Earth Treks problem setters!
This is such an awkward V5, but so fun! I was working on this one with someone else last week and thought it'd be useful to record for him. The crux of this problem really is the first three moves. First, the right hand out to the gaston from a relatively bad slope/crimp. The top part of the right hold is really bad, and the bottom part is only slightly better. However, to make the dynamic move way up to the jug, you need the left hand to be placed well on the bottom half of the hold so you don't peel off (note how I fidget with my left hand before I make that move). So the first move to the right needs to hit the top uncomfortable part of the right hold so you have room for your left hand on the bottom [good] half of the right hold. Once you're set up there though, just a quick hop up with your right hand and it's all but sent!
Overall, another great problem from the problem setters at Earth Treks. Thanks folks!
(Also, I love bouldering on this wall because they have pullup bars above the boulder, so I always do at least one victory pullup after sending problems to add a little additional workout).
This was my first V5 to complete. I projected this for a little over a week before my first send on it, which is this video! I asked my wif to record it so I could see what I was doing wrong and lo and behold, I sent it!
Additionally, check out that super cool heel hook right at the beginning! The route setters at my gym are so great.
A couple of months ago the problem setters started putting up some really cool slab stuff on our comp wall. This is just one of the more medium difficulty examples. It's unrated (as are all of the comp wall boulders), but I'm guessing it's a V5.
One comical thing to note: did you notice the classical music in the background? One of the ways the gym staff encourage people to leave the gym in a timely fashion at the end of the night is they play classical music or the Harry Potter soundtrack in the last 30 minutes of the session. ?
This was my first V7! Really though, I'm not entirely sure this should have been rated V7. It's possible it was rated that because most boulders don't involve hand jams, so most people don't know how to do them. I, however, have watched many a video on how to crack climb! Turns out, the internet DOES have useful content! ?