Methods to plant, sustain, and best utilize woodland and wood for fuel, forage, windbreak and construction. These videos are from two design courses taught by Bill Mollison at the Fossil Rim Wildlife Center in Glen Rose Texas in 1994 and 1995. The following notes were found at http://www.desertgo.info/search/?searchTitle=Mollison+Fossil+Rim+Notes 09 Forests and Woodlands *Types: Food, Forage: Pigs, Bees, Construction: Pulp, Pole, Plankwood, Craft: Bamboos, Weaving, *Combine like a pole/bee forage forest. *Most of the world runs on fuel wood, if they are poor and burn dung they are leaking fertility/nutrients and will die *Stickwood fuel, not log, tie sticks into bundles, good for cooking and thermal mass heaters, logwood is conspicuous consumption, children can collect it, *mass heater guy: setz leeflang, boxtel, holland, kachelofen, tile-oven, *kang in china, distill fractoin out of the smoke *willow, one of the best stickwoods, 1 m high coppice, will yield 500+ years, there is a coppicing beech, 800+ years of coppicing, some oaks coppice, junipers, *(orchard) pruning, bamboo waste, *lots of legume stickwoods, *sesbania (sp?) full height in 6 weeks, sub/tropics, among sugarcane/bananas, *forage/pole: carobs, figs (mulberry good fruit and leaf forage), fruits/nuts (olives, pine nut, etc) *john figs from asia, great leaf forage, large drops of fruit for forage, *coppice for leaf forage, mainly legumes, *honey locust is high durability (90+ years in the ground) pole, black locust just durable (up to 70 years in the ground), some swamp trees and conifers are highly durable, must resist rot and termites, *crush and steam press young pine, glue together, looks like one piece of wood, *2 m apart, pole forest, 3+ types, tier your harvest over 6-30 years, leave one species to log for planks, coppice the lower stuff, should reseed naturally, *ponderosa is good in mixed stands, sanfe fe succession, (start two junipers, pinion, ponderosa finish), the entire region around sante fe was all panderosa, *put out a few varieties and you'll see in a few years which grow best *plant trees for sewage treatment in desert - red gums, red cedar loves growing in sewage in the desert, lots of variety within species, *sequoa, good on ridges, fire resistent, high orographic lift, *pawlonia (sp?) paulownia, chinese, conifer, ultra fast growing plant wood, log 6-9 years, grows 12' a year, not duragle outside, good honey while growing, *bamboos, fiber, flutes, timber, does a lot, *pioneers, sequencers, niches (warm southfacing pockets, plant valuable trees here), *paint trees with bone tar, (sepp holtzer does something like this with deer bones) *poplars grow fast and are good for fungi, Paul Stamets mushroom books, ~5 years before you can get mushro ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUE-IJjpCcY

Once one has learned to harvest water, then the real fun begins with production of the myriad of foods and marketable commodities hosted by ponds and other water-rich environments. These videos are from two design courses taught by Bill Mollison at the Fossil Rim Wildlife Center in Glen Rose Texas in 1994 and 1995. The following notes were found at http://www.desertgo.info/search/?searchTitle=Mollison+Fossil+Rim+Notes 12 Aquaculture *Watercress, Kang Kong (imopea aquatica), taro (calacasia), elephant ear (alacasia conjac), *Chinampas, trellis (vine), water, (fish/shellfish) land (banana in tropics), *vines belong along the land/water interface, *still ponds, anaerobic in tropics, needs specific assemblage, australian lung fish, *more fish with slight flow, canal cages to grow fish in cages, *water plants can help cleans water, water organism are very fast at stabilizing nutrients, 10-15 minutes and the organism take up all the phosphate, stayed in same barren cairn for 30+ years in the same exact place, a tall column of reef, *tractor pond, ~16:00, 1-2m, starter aquarium fish, water salad plants, *grass carp, tilapia, can eat weeds around taro, *pu uu, water snail, macrobachrium rosenburgi, giant prawn, ducks, *1/8-1/4 acre pond is good enough to feed a small community, sweet spot size, *1 m deep is sweet depth, kettle should be this deep in smaller ponds/taro terraces, *when pH starts to decline, expect the oxygen to fall shortly, paddle or pump air in, *elephant fish can be an alarm when its electrostatic pulse changes, alarms on many things, patented, used in Europe, *series or parallel flows in several ponds, series can transfer disease but uses less water, *1/3-1/2 of pond can be dense vegetation supporting many invertebrates/tiny fish, these smaller things can be used as food for the fish, terrace a slope that the larger fish can't get in, *fruit flies/pill bugs on a raft of hay, *compost box of hay, underwater goes anaerobic, spawns zoeplankton, sulphur fixing bacteria, smells like swamp gas, *ducks, shrimp, fish, chain feeds itself, *bacteria, phytoplankton/algae, zoeplankton, shrimp/crustacean, fish *large mesh to shelter small fish from birds, escapement *120-150 ducks per acre, geese graze and poo in water for phytoplankton, ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cG8k-zqNj-g

This was our drive through Tucson. The original video was 8 minutes long, so I sped it up and added music. Tucson is huge! This wasn't even the entire town. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhbEY4rhAH8

So, I randomly decided to try my hand at sprouted grain flour. I went to the bulk bins at Winco to see what I could find. They didn't really have as many whole grains as I wanted, so I bought some barley, red Winter wheat, white wheat, and some raw sunflower seeds. I am going to say this right now: do not try to sprout shelled raw sunflower seeds! They got slimy, stinky, and NEVER really dried out. In a quart jar, I put one cup of each, put my sprouting lids on the jars, rinsed, then filled them with water and let them soak overnight. I then drained out the liquid, rinsed them, and stored them upside down. Rinse and drain twice per day until the grains are sprouted as much as you want them to be. Here are the sprouting lids I am using: [UPGRADED] Aozita 6 Pack Plastic Sprouting Lids for Wide Mouth Mason Jars - Sprouting Jar Strainer Lid for Canning Jars - Sprouting Screen for Broccoli, Alfalfa, etc. by Aozita Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078X3ZCXC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fCGkEb57S75PT Then, to dry them, I put parchment paper onto rimmed baking sheets, spread the grains out, and put these baking sheets in the over with only the light on. That produced enough heat to ensure the air was warm and dry enough to dehydrate the grains. Then, for about 48 hours, I stirred the grains around. The ones toward the outside of the baking sheets dry faster. Once they were completely dry, I put them in jars. I tried to grind them into flour with my food processor first but all the grains did was spin around, so I tried my blender. That did a pretty good job! I first pulsed the grains on the "crush ice" setting, then just blended them on the lowest setting for 5 minutes. I had to strain it because the blender didn't grind all of the grains and I didn't want it chunky. It was at this point that I killed my blender. I ran it for 10 minutes and it overheated so bad that it wouldn't start again. I went looking on Amazon and almost bought these: Roots & Branches VKP1024 Deluxe Grain Mill, small, Silver by Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006P2KG0Q/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_cnGkEbR78F4F3 Roots & Branches VKP1024-M2 Deluxe VKP1024 grain mill motor, small, black by BuyBoxer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082VXYKVB/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_loGkEb5WNCBEN BUT I ended up buying this one: NutriMill Plus High-Speed Grain/Flour Mill by Nutrimill https://www.amazon.com/NutriMill-Classic-760200-Speed-Minute/dp/B016WYVZVA/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=&th=1 I love this mill! I am so happy I went with this instead of a hand crank mill because I know how strenuous it can be to use my hand meat grinder. I can't imagine how much more tiring it would be using a hand operated grain mill! I ran the grain through twice and BAM! I had really nice flour! If you mak ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVtglUXS4Gs