I may be confusing the steel motor housing with fingernails regarding the soft and conditioned. The marketing's unclear.
But I needed something at-hand to make a water resistant mark on the surface of my pump motor. Normally it'd be a grease pen or a bit of paint.
I've had this UV nail polish set sitting around and I've been curious how well a layer would stay on an unprepared surface. It came un-announced in the mail from Amazon one day with no indication of where it was from and no way to return it.
Original Video: https://youtu.be/Mg5H47A_QsQ
Since people asked about it I've made a 3 month filter fan update along with figured out which brand of filters I'm using. They're the MERV 13 filtration part.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdsRTW42s2k
I'm installing Linux on the HP ElitePad 1000 G2 Tablet. I wasn't sure if audio, video, and the touch screen would be functional in Linux. So I backed up the Atom tablet using Clonezilla and installed Ubuntu 20.04 (Linuxium Atom respin).
Atom (Bay Trail and Cherry Trail) systems are notorious for having issues with the odd system chipsets and USB devices they make use of. Which is why I'm using the Atom specific re-spin. Which did turn out to be necessary for the sound to work fresh off the install.
I also back up and restore using Clonezilla to see if it can both make a copy of the drive and restore it successfully over the network via SSH.
Then I take a quick look on if it can render in 3D, quirks with the audio output, and turning off the auto brightness option (which could probably be tweaked to work.
Creating the thumb drive required a GPT partition with UEFI only set in order to boot up on the tablet.
Leave a comment down below if I missed anything you're interested in or you'd like me to clarify something from the video!
Article and Links: https://pcburn.com
Linuxium Ubuntu Respins: http://linuxium.com.au
Rufus thumbdrive tool: https://rufus.ie
Clonezilla: https://clonezilla.org
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYCTwCxWqYs
This week I"m getting down to re-wiring the Prusa i3 Mk3 heatbed to repair a wire failure. The previous video diagnosing the problem is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiL_kqK8Zdw
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGbcnetUZkM
Making a charge circuit for compatible 4.2v lithium ion batteries only requires four discreet components with the LTC4054ES5 (marked LTH7) IC. In this video I'm creating one on a breadboard with it's constant current set to 18mA to charge LIR2032 batteries that I use in my electronics projects.
These are programmable up to (in the case of an authentic LTC4054ES5 chip) 800mA constant charge current with proper heat dissipation. And are they ever tiny for that kind of power output!
I'm not entirely sure that signal LED is implemented correctly for the circuit. If you've got any implementation notes on that please leave it below and I'll update these notes if I run into a better implementation.
I'll have a quick diagram of the circuit I created up on PCBurn when I get around to writing up an accompanying article for the video. As always it's probably that I've missed some of the nuances of implementing these or questions you'd like included; please leave a comment!
As always with any discreet component you should refer any questions as to it's compatibility or fitness for a particular application to the manufacturer. This is a specific implementation of my particular components for your entertainment and not a recommendation or endorsement of any of them.
Analog Devices LTC4054 datasheet: https://www.analog.com/en/products/ltc4054-4.2.html
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKlAD0IcoZs
My hot-air SMD rework station died at the worst possible time, right when I needed it. It started displaying 0P on the display.
Turns out there was what's probably a thermocouple (now that I've thought about it for a minute) completely disconnected. It may have initially had the wire touching the solder without beings soldered through the through-hole.
So let's see what that'll take to repair!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqmeHo7ptDg
I'm starting in on turning an old hydronic furnace to a DIY metal melting furnace. It should end up as a melting furnace and small metalworking forge as long as it's in good enough condition.
The concept is to make some re-use of of an old pile of unusable heating system components. Rather than just scrapping the whole thing.
First step, assessing what's there and how to take it apart
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7gF9zEo79w
I dive into a look at the cheapest PETG filament available on Amazon, at the time of purchase just 12.83 shipped! How will the least expensive filament with free shipping your money can buy stack up?
If you've ever wondered if you'd get your money's worth, or if these low-cost filaments are any good, take a look at another one with me.
Most people whom I talk to about 3D printing seem to have a loose preference for a particular filament. Most of the cheap filaments we use seem to be of similar quality and tend to run through the 3D prints okay if not perfectly.
With the exception of the now defunct MakerGeeks PETG filament I haven't seen a truly awful roll come across my desk yet. And fingers crossed, the cheapest roll of PETG I could find on Amazon won't be the first!
All of the filaments I feature on these "cheapest" videos are purchased by me at retail for use in my home shop. They weren't received free, reimbursed in any way, and I don't get paid by anyone to do this.
If you like the content please subscribe and let me know what you'd like to see in the comments!
Accompanying article at https://pcburn.com/petg-filament-is-the-cheapest-on-amazon-any-good/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTQGLxF8Wm8
I needed a 3D resin printer with a better interface than the Wanhao D7 I've been using. So I decided on the Sonic Mini.
Phrozen's Sonic Mini is a budget monochrome masking LCD 3D resin printer. And now that it's here I've gotten around to taking it out of the box and writing a review of it's features and my impressions.
The first print (as you'll see at the end of the video) didn't go well. That was down to the cure time being a bit too aggressive for the Siraya Tech Blu resin I'm attempting to use.
I'm covering design quality, printer setup, 3D resin safety, and a first print attempt.
In the future I'll probably be doing a teardown of the printer along with some convenience modifications such as chamber heating and (if necessary) modifying the base for UV resistance.
Also, there don't appear to be too many profiles for resins available. I'm aiming to remedy that in a print quality article and video to follow.
PCBurn Article: https://pcburn.com/phrozen-sonic-mini-review-should-i-buy-it/
3D Resin List of Settings for the Phrozen Sonic Mini: https://pcburn.com/phrozen-sonic-mini-3d-resin-settings/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6TG0UQE05k
We're making jumper wires with slide on Dupont style connector covers. You'll probably want to use a larger (lower) gauge than 28 (stranded) for the cables; for this job it was appropriate.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o53uveSmJR0