These lights are absolutely worth buying just for the caps, as they can be used with many other LED strings. They'd be really nice as illuminated baubles when added to an existing light string on a Christmas (or Halloween) tree. The driver is functional, but doesn't drive the LEDs at a very high intensity for this large style cap. It has the diode and capacitor needed for driving colour changing LEDs. I used a string of warm white Poundland garden parasol lights to convert the globes to a brighter warm white. The different look and sound of this video is because I'm travelling with work and have had to improvise a recording setup in accommodation that is not ideal for recording videos. That said, I quite like the background - but the lighting needs some work. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video adverts. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free videos as they are made, and also regular live streams. The Patreon support keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Other contribution options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GOWsFTQaYU

The frame is now complete (and lit right now) so here's a guide to how it went together. You can help me make the decision about the intensity of the blue LED starfield background. Even whether it should be dimmer than the 1mA level which is the lowest at the moment. The only major differences between this frame and the type you would buy (or build) for professional use are the frame material - normally aluminium box section with tie bars for supporting the shapes and lights, the shapes would normally be double outlined with tube on either side for higher intensity and built in redundancy if a metre of tubelight fails and the background lights would be either a curtain of straight waterproof strings or one continuous multi-section string. Modern frames also have an earth/ground connection from the junction box onto the frame. I like the versatility of the grid though. It means my frame can be different every year, and upgraded with new effects and shapes as desired. I'll be making some videos showing proper handling and termination of the tubelight so you can start making your own custom frames. And if it's for home use, even if you do use cheap lights (preferably low voltage) then it doesn't really matter if they fail after a season or two. They're easy to replace at any time. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EqK-Tr65UM

This is one of my favourite ambient projects. Converting traditional tungsten fairy light strings into LED ones that run directly from wall power, but with the whole string using less power than just one of the original tungsten lamps. You can mix and match just about any LED you can find into the set and it is 100% serviceable and future proof. If you have the facilities to do so, you can also 3D print caps for the LEDs in various styles. This project does involve mains power, and is only recommended for those experienced in that area. With the two resistors per leg the shock risk is actually much lower than the original set and definitely lower than the rogue imported sets. The intensity is deliberately low, making these excellent for ambient decoration and night light use. The running cost is virtually nothing, even when left on 24/7, and the LEDs are running at such low current they will last a very long time. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. Here's the script for the simple power supply tube. This can be made in flame resilient plastic if you can actually afford it. I made mine out of generic PLA. //PSU cup $fn=50; //(cylinder facets) difference(){ union(){ //main body cylinder(h=40,d=11.6); } //inner hollow translate([0,0,1]) cylinder(h=40,d=10); } The custom lamp cap script is below. Copy and paste the whole thing to OpenSCAD. The default settings below are for low voltage LED strings. Adjust the diameters and sizes to suit your holders. //Globe fairy light cap generator - bigclivedotcom //Generates an LED cap based on a top and bottom //diameter with connecting sides. //Suggested default values are in brackets. //ADJUST THESE VARIABLES FOR GLOBE SHAPE AND SIZE top=6; //Diameter of globe at top (6) bottom=20; //Diameter of globe at base (20) height=40; //length of lamp (40) facets=12; //Number of facets around lamp (12 at first) //More facets equals MUCH longer processing time! //ADJUST THESE VARIABLES FOR BASE DIMENSIONS baselen=4; //Length of base outside globe (4) inside=5.5; //Internal diameter of base (5.5) led=5; //LED HOLE diameter (5) //Don't touch variables below this line $fn=facets; toprad=top/2; botrad=bottom/2; outside=inside+2; base=baselen+5; difference(){ union(){ difference(){ union(){ //Outside shell of globe hull() { //base of globe sphere(r=botrad); //top of globe translate([0,0,height-toprad-botrad]) sphere(r=toprad); } } //Inside hollow of globe hull() { //base of globe sphere(r=botrad-1); //top of globe translate([0,0,height-toprad-botrad]) sphere(r=toprad-1); } } //LED base cylinder translate([0,0,0-botrad-(base-5)]) cylinder(h=base,d1=outside,d2=outside,$fn=100); //LED base dome translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=(outside-led)/2,d1=outside,d2=led+1,$fn=100); } //LED base interior translate([0,0,0-botrad-(base-5)-.01]) cylinder(h=base+.02,d1=inside,d2=inside,$fn=100); //LED dome interior translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=(outside-led)/2-1,d1=inside,d2=led,$fn=100); //LED hole translate([0,0,0-botrad+5]) cylinder(h=10,d1=led,d2=led,$fn=100); //x-ray cube //translate([-50,-50,-40]) //cube([100,50,100]); } ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoi_4HihdjU

This video is partly about a special purpose pump, but also explains how a very common European unvented tumble dryer works. They're extremely efficient and require no external exhaust vent. The simplicity of the design is stellar, with one main motor for drum rotation and the hot and cold air-path fans. The fans are the centrifugal type, so even when the machine changes drum direction briefly, the fans still push air around. The water extracted from the clothing is pumped up to a pull-out reservoir which can then be poured into a sink. Alternatively, some of these machines can be plumbed directly to a drain. By recycling the hot air in a loop, these machines have high efficiency, and also contribute to heating your home in winter. Unfortunately they also heat your home in summer, which isn't so good. They also do leak a small amount of fine lint which adds to the usual dust issue in homes, but most of the lint is caught in a small lint trap that is cleaned before each cycle. Because we have very high power available at all sockets in a UK home (32A 240V power circuits) we can plug these machines into any socket in the home. It's common to have the laundry equipment in the kitchen, but the dryer could be put in any spare room in the house. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrkxJjgd3cE