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As we are learning to install a quality electrical product during our apprenticeships, we are constantly reminded to bond our metallic boxes. But why do we bond metal boxes, and why DON'T we bond plastic boxes? In a never ending pursuit to answer his followers questions, Dustin once again provides a great explanation to this topic!
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So why would we even bother to bond our metallic boxes if we aren’t required to bond our plastic boxes? To find the answer lets dig into our 2020 NEC and see what it has to say about the topic!
Article 250.4 (A)(3) Bonding of Electrical Equipment, of the 2020 NEC tells us that any normally non-current carrying (something that is normally not energized) conductive materials (metal for example) enclosing electrical conductors or equipment (conduit and boxes for example) shall be (must be) connected together (bonded) and to the electrical supply source.
What is an effective ground-fault current path you may ask? Article 100 of our 2020 NEC states that an Effective Ground-Fault Current Path is “An intentionally constructed, low-impedance electrically conductive path designed and intended to carry current under ground-fault conditions from the point of a ground fault on a wiring system to the electrical supply source and that facilitates the operation of the overcurrent protective device or ground-fault detectors”. This definition tells us that an effective ground-fault current path is a purposely constructed path that is meant to carry current under abnormal conditions (one that it isn’t normally supposed to) from the point of the fault to the source (a breaker for example) that lets the overcurrent protective device or ground fault detector to do its job (trip the br
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Of all the things us electricians do daily that can get us hurt, or worse, getting shocked is at the top of the list. In today’s episode, Dustin tells us about his worst experience with getting shocked and also shares a few tidbits of information that can help us understand WHY we get shocked & how to not let that happen.
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As with many of us, there are horror stories of the worst shock we received. For Dustin, he was working alone underneath a house, laying on the dirt that was soaked from recent rain, he was working with live circuitry in a j box, and had maybe 3 years in the trade. He tried using a voltage tick tracer to tell him when the circuit was shut off, but it gave a false reading leading him to believe that the circuit was not energized. A wire fell out of the j box, landed on his chest, and since he was in direct contact with the earth, he received a wicked shock. So, how could the incident have been avoided?
In the scheme of things, we should NEVER work on energized circuitry unless it is absolutely necessary (we are troubleshooting & need to have the circuit energized to see what it is/is not doing), we are testing and need the circuit energized to get values, or there is greater damage possible to property/humans well-being AND we have the proper training to work on it. Shutting the circuit off is the best way to avoid a shock. In addition to shutting it off, a proper LOTO (lock out tag out) plan should also be implemented, so there is no possible way that the circuit can be reenergized while we have our hands on it. This could be installing a breaker lock/tag or padlocking/tagging a disconnect in the off position, or something similar. A tip if working on a fused disconnect- take the fuses OUT when working on the circuit (in addition to locking it out) so there is no way that the circuit can make it all the way to you even if the disconnect is unlocked.
Another thing to keep in mind is the way we take care of and use our electrical testing devices (meters, voltage tic sticks, etc.). Do NOT just throw your testing equipment in the back of the truck leaving it susceptible to the elements and damage, throw it into your truck toolbox, or in the gang box and pile other tools on top of it. Our meters could literally be used to protect your life and should be treated as sensitive equipment. They should be kept in a separate box/bag/etc. and cared for. They should be tested fairly frequently on live circuits to check if they are operating properly and the batteries should be replaced on regular intervals. When using a meter (or a hot stick) to see if a circuit is de energized, they should first be checked on a live circuit to verify they are working, THEN check the circuit you are working on, AND then rechecked on a known live circuit. This will ensure your meter is operating properly.
IF working on a live circuit is necessary, a couple of important items should be taken into consideration. Do NOT work it alone with no one around. Make sure that another qualified person is available and knows what you are attempting to do. You should also be properly trained in the working of live circuits so you recognize and avoid the dangers. Proper PPE should also be used and will be task specific. When in doubt, check with your safety representative, your supervisor, or veterans of the trade. Keep in mind that electricity will always look for the shortest path to make a complete circuit, and if you insert yourself into that loop, you are going to receive a nasty surprise. Make sure you are not standing in (or laying on) a puddle of water or saturated soil and make sure your other body parts are not touching anything grounded, a neutral conductor, or another circuit.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding some of the ways you can receive an electrical shock and how to avoid them. At the end of the day, we are working to support ourselves and our families and if we get hurt (or worse) by getting shocked (when it could have been avoided), then we would be working for nothing! Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
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I have all 4 models of Milwaukee bandsaws, two are M18 and two are M12. Here's the pros and cons of each.
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Milwaukee has two different battery systems, the M12 and the M18. The M12, as you may have guessed, is the 12-volt platform - while the M18 is the 18-volt. Both are great and have very specific design considerations that belong in different categories. So when thinking about buying a new bandsaw, think about the true use of the tool beforehand.
First off, are you wanting to cut really small things or really large? Or would you prefer something in the middle that gets a cross-section of both worlds?
Next, do you want something light-weight that you can use on the top of a ladder without your arm feeling like it's going to fall off from lifting it over your head, or would you prefer something really lightweight?
Lastly, how often are you using it? Is this an all-day, everyday need or will you only pull it out every once in a while?
Once you know these questions you can begin to assess whether or not you'll need the stout 18-volt system that is far heavier, and heavier-duty - or if the 12-volt light-weight, low power consumption model will work better.
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If we were roughing in multiple buildings on a project, are we required to install a ground rod at each one? Are we required to bond our neutral conductor and grounding conductor at each location as well? In this latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin takes a look into the requirements for each of these to shed some light on the subject.
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Article 250.32 of the 2020 NEC governs buildings or structures supplied by a Feeder or Branch circuits. Under the exceptions to 250.32(A), the code states that a Grounding Electrode is NOT required in a building supplied with a single branch circuit (including multiwire branch circuits) IF that branch circuit includes an equipment grounding conductor. So, if we were supplying a separate building from our main building with a circuit for a light or a receptacle or something like that, as long as we included an equipment grounding conductor with our run.
Feeders are slightly different. Again, article 250.32 covers this, but we will be using part (B) for feeders. If we are supplying this separate building with a PANEL that will provide power for things within it, then we are to install an equipment grounding conductor WITH our feeder, and it needs to also be connected to the Grounding Electrode. In addition, part A of 250.32 does require a grounding electrode system and conductor (we used the EXCEPTION when talking about branch circuits!) to be installed. So, if it’s going to be a brand-new slab, we will be required to install our grounding system just like a normal commercial building would (Ufer, Building Steel, Cold Water, Ground Rod, Etc.). The equipment ground carried in our feeder is used to BOND the parts and the grounding electrode system still must be established!
Article 250.32 (B) also states “Any installed GROUNDED CONDUCTOR (Neutral) shall NOT be connected to the equipment grounding conductor or to the grounding electrode(s). So, this tells us that our neutral and ground should NOT be bonded together at our new building, as it is already bonded together at our service. Remember from previous videos, that Dustin established the bond is needed at ONE point only to complete the loop so that the OCPD can sense a LARGE current flow and trip. But we do not want to establish that bonding point twice and creating a choke point. That complete loop for a ground fault needs to happen RAPIDLY and since there are no motors, panels etc. to give us any resistance or loads to go through, the resulting current flow is massive (but very short lived) allowing the breaker to do its job and trip.
So, to recap, if you are installing a new building from an existing one, you are NOT required to install a grounding electrode if it is fed from a Branch Circuit. We ARE required to install a grounding electrode if it is being fed with a Feeder. And we do NOT want to rebond our ground and neutral at the new building as this bond is already made at the source building.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding where we are to install grounding electrodes and Neutral/Ground bonds. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave a comment in the comment section below and let us know! Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly adding new content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be!
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