See how I made a simple vanity light for my bathroom as we prep our house for sale!
Get $50 toward any mattress by visiting http://casper.com/make
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://amzn.to/2aCJYGu - SawStop cabinet saw
http://amzn.to/2rVUa8c - Strap clamps
http://amzn.to/2sj8yYA - Lamp sockets
http://amzn.to/2t1wHRz - LED bulbs
http://amzn.to/2axOLvq - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/2da9fOJ - Evolution miter saw (cuts wood, alum, steel, etc)
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2awLSaO - Shop Fox Hanging Air Filter
http://amzn.to/2akFN6c - 2HP Dust Collector
http://amzn.to/2axPmNA - 1 Micron bag
http://amzn.to/2axFGW9 - Speed square
http://amzn.to/2akGJYa - 90˚ corner clamp (4 pack)
http://amzn.to/2aAxAtv - Formby's tung oil finished (tung oil/varnish)
http://amzn.to/2ayihkF - Quikclot clotting sponge
http://amzn.to/2aLCCCN - First aid kit
http://amzn.to/2aovz06 - Respirator
http://amzn.to/2aW3nHn - Filters
http://amzn.to/2aY182W - Eye protection
http://amzn.to/2axUZ0X - Ear protection
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I've got 3 little boys in 1 room and their closet was a WRECK. I made some simple shelving and added rods to make it WAY more usable.
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Get $50 off your mattress purchase at http://www.casper.com/make
Material cost: $112 for the wood, sockets, rods.. another $47 in cloth bins for the cubbies
What you'll need
http://amzn.to/1hGMlLt - Drill/Driver combo
http://amzn.to/1IZxDbg - Wood glue
http://amzn.to/1JeObO3 - Table Saw
http://amzn.to/1JeOdFG - Miter Saw
http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder
http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels
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Here's where we started, a typical single rod closet.
I removed the shelf to reuse it.
Using a pry bar, I removed the ledger that the shelf and rod were sitting on. I patched the holes with some spackling.
I first cut the shelving top, since it was the widest piece. The entire unit was made from pine 1"x12".
Then I setup a stop block, clamped to my table to cut the shelves all the same width.
This stop block is well behind the blade, to prevent pinching.
I cut all five shelves to length.
I countersunk three holes in each end of the top piece.
I spread glue on the opposite side of the holes I'd added.
I set the top in place up against the side panels.
I used a corner clamp to hold the pieces at a 90° angle.
I screwed the top to the side panels.
I did the same for the other side.
I cut two pieces of scrap to the same size, to act as shelf spacers.
I slid these pieces up against the underside of the top panel.
Then I slid the next shelf up against the bottom of the spacers.
This shelf was predrilled (with countersink) and screwed in on both sides.
I followed the same pattern for the rest of the shelves.
I avoided glue initially so that the pieces wouldn't slide around, but once the sides were completely on, I backed out all of the screws.
Then I added glue to the end of each shelf.
I screwed them all back together. The pre-existing holes helped line the boards up correctly.
I measured the area under the bottom shelf and cut a piece to fit that space.
I used some brads to hold it in place.
All of the screw holes were filled with wood putty and sanded smooth.
The whole unit was sanded and painted white.
I found the center of the closet and set the shelf in place.
Then I marked where the shelves hit the base board.
Using a cheap multitool, I cut along the line to separate the trim.
I pried away the trim pieces and patched the holes with spackle.
I cut four pieces of 1"x4" pine to match the depth of the closet.
I painted the top, bottom and one side of them white. (The other side doesn't need paint).
I found a stud, then countersunk two holes in each board.
I screwed in the top hole, and used it as a pivot point to level the board.
Then I secured it with the second screw.
I added a screw to each end, driving them into the corner studs.
I followed the same method for the other three pieces.
I set my old top shelf in place.
I screwed it to the top of the new shelving unit.
I measured out from the wall and screwed in a pole socket.
Then I matched this location on the opposite side, and added the other socket. I did the same for the other three poles.
Using a cut off wheel on my grinder, I cut standard closet rods down to four sections of the correct length.
These pieces dropped right into the sockets.
Finally, I cut two more pieces of pine to fit the gap on each side of the shelving unit.
They were painted white, set in place and leveled.
From the inside of the shelving unit, I drilled and screwed into the end of the shelves. Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
I drilled a 3 inch hole in the side of my Land Cruiser (FJ80) to add a snorkel. It was really scary.
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HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
http://amzn.to/1IsEV5n - Snorkel kit
http://amzn.to/1IsEZlB - Double sided tape
http://amzn.to/1XBh4ap - Large blue tape
http://amzn.to/1XBhayR - RTV Silicone
http://amzn.to/1GMrfGL - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/1gjdrqU - Angle grinder
http://amzn.to/1T0GBNj - Cut off wheels
http://amzn.to/1XBhhuj - 3 5/8" hole saw
http://amzn.to/1IsFtrR - Drill bit set
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The kit comes with almost everything you need. Everything else is listed above.
The template that comes with the kit is almost entirely wrong, so ignore it.
Instead, I measured the sizes and placement of the entire snorkel back side.
I translated my location for the center of the big hole to the side of the truck, added some blue tape. From this center point, I drew the large circle.
I used this circle for reference and modified it's placement a little bit (although it still felt like a guess).
I removed the headlight (one screw) to access the fender.
The stock air intake came off by removing a hose clamp and bolt.
It takes a little Tetris skill, but the intake will slide out of the headlight opening.
I used a punch to mark the center of my hole.
I drilled a small pilot hole (kind of scary).
Then I drilled out the large hole (VERY scary).
To find the placement of the rest of the holes, I put the template on and covered the incorrect holes with tape.
I poked holes to match up with the real holes in the snorkel.
I added a few pieces of double sided tape to it as well.
I fit the snorkel in place, and taped the edges of the template down.
I punched each one of my newly laid out holes.
I drilled a very small pilot hole for each one.
I enlarged the holes with a larger bit, making them slightly bigger than necessary so I had a little wiggle room.
Here they are, all drilled out.
The kit comes with threaded rods, each with a hex opening in one end.
I added threadlocker and screwed them in.
I made sure they were all tightened down with an allen key.
My first test fit was close, but not exactly where I wanted everything to sit on the curves of the truck.
I opened up the holes a little, and drew a larger cut out for the big hole.
I used a grinder to reshape the hole until the snorkel sat where I wanted it.
I added the plate for the upright, leaving the screws loose so that the plate could move a little bit.
The back of the plate got a little double sided tape.
I sat the snorkel in place, pressed the tape to the truck, and removed the screws. The plate stayed in it's desired location on the upright.
I drilled through the holes in the plate, into the upright.
Here it is after removing the plate, and tape.
I sprayed all of my newly added holes with rust inhibitor spray.
They also all got a coating of RTV silicone to stop water leaking.
I tried to cover all exposed metal.
I riveted the top plate to the upright.
I also added a seal of silicone to the rivet holes and around the outside of the plate.
I even added some silicone to the rubber hose connection, after pushing it onto the snorkel.
I pushed the snorkel into place, but the rubber hose made it not sit flush against the truck. It's very thick rubber.
Screwing in the upper bracket helped draw the snorkel against the truck some.
I ended up using a clamp to push and hold it in place while threading on the nuts.
The bolts were really difficult to get to, but eventually, I got washers and nuts on all six of them.
I tightened up the two hose clamps around the rubber hose connection.
The headlight went right back in place with the single screw.
The final pieces was adding the snorkel head with the included black hose clamp.
It was complete! My first addition to my company car! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Come ask Matt Cremona questions live!! If you've never seen Matt's woodworking, go check him out at
https://www.youtube.com/user/mcremona Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Four-in-a-Row (Connect Four) is a great game for all ages. I'll show you how to make it with or without a CNC/3d carver. The pieces are translucent acrylic from http://www.Inventables.com
Darbin Orvar finishes: http://www.darbinorvar.com/products-waxes
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
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Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at
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BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!!
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FOLLOW:
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Check out how I made a fully custom game console from plywood, duct tape and a plastic dinosaur!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://azon.ly/mEg3uj - Plastic dinosaurs
http://azon.ly/pHhf99 - Duct tape
http://azon.ly/jMbhd2 - Taco sauce
http://azon.ly/ws5B1K - Hot dog costume for dogs
Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more...
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See how to make an old log into a bench with hidden storage inside!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://amzn.to/2faIOZv - Evolution Miter Saw
http://amzn.to/2axOLvq - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2axPah6 - Grizzly 14" Bandsaw
http://amzn.to/2awLSaO - Shop Fox Hanging Air Filter
http://amzn.to/2akFN6c - 2HP Dust Collector
http://amzn.to/2axPmNA - 1 Micron bag
http://amzn.to/2axFGW9 - Speed square
http://amzn.to/2aAxAtv - Formby's tung oil finished (tung oil/varnish)
http://amzn.to/2ay9XRX - CA Glue (medium)
http://amzn.to/2ay9T4v - CA Activator
http://amzn.to/2ax5YSj - MIG welder
http://amzn.to/2aD8jMd - Welding mask (auto darkening)
http://amzn.to/2axGPgj - Welding gloves
http://amzn.to/2ay9COR - Welding magnet
http://amzn.to/2aD8zuD - Angle grinder
http://amzn.to/2dFnPwH - Evolution Miter Saw
http://amzn.to/2er0q3M - My not fancy chisels
Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more...
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Learn to make an LED sign with reclaimed wood and check out the new Carvey CNC in action!
For more info and links to what you'll need:
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/led-sign/
Also: How to use Easel (free CNC software)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCUHsJ4Ktj0
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/support
BUY A SHIRT, STICKER OR A HANDMADE ITEM!!
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/store
FOLLOW:
http://facebook.com/iltms
http://twitter.com/iliketomakestuf
http://instagram.com/iliketomakestuff Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2