Trying to stop a leak from the on/off valve on the down feed cylinder on a HF/CM 97009 7"x12" horizontal /vertical band saw. It seems that the leak is coming from the on/off valve on the down feed cylinder. The valve assembly on this cylinder seems to be made up of various M13x1.50 threaded fittings, which is close to 1/4" NPT, but will not thread together. I couldn't find any valves or adapters in that odd ball size. This is one of my pet peeves about metric, there seems to be many "standards" in effect, they're all measured in "mm" but they're all different. Bandsaw listing on HF: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-inch-x-12-inch-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-bandsaw-97009.html I used some Bar's Leaks Jack Oil with Stop Leak: https://amzn.to/3UD4LPc Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 Here's an OpenSCAD file of a potential 3D printed washer for this valve. I've tried to print this in TPU but it's hard to get a good print with such a small, thin part. I haven't tried in in Nylon yet, but that may work better. You have have to play with the ID to account for shrinkage and you may also need to play with the thickness, but have at it and let me know if it works for you. // A custom sized washer adapted from // https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/customizable-washer // You can adjust the three variables below, dimensions in mm // inner diameter id = 7; // outer diameter od = 10; // thickness thick = 0.9; module washer (id, od, thick) { difference() { cylinder(d=od, h=thick, $fn=100); translate([0,0,-thick]) cylinder(d=id, h=thick*3, $fn=100); }; } washer (id, od, thick); ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3JqjqY8xGc

Installing the new 8mm gas line for the semi-rapid burner on the natural gas cooktop and testing it out. The gas valve has an M8x1 female thread and the gas burner has an M13x1 female thread, both set up for compression fittings. It seems the burner is designed to accept up to an M8 inlet tube diameter. Lots of searching finally located the name/description of the fitting needed, that being a Norgren / Enots compression tube nut. For the valve end, an adapter to step up from M8x1 to 1/8" NPT and then a 1/4" compression fitting facilitated the transition to the M8 tube. All the adapters on the valve end were drilled out to the same ID as the 1/4" copper tube and the length of that was kept to a minimum. A 1/8" NPT street elbow was also used to turn the gas line out of the valve and minimize the protrusion of the gas piping under the cooktop. Also, having hose tube ends close to the same angle makes installing the stiff tube a lot easier as you need to insert both ends at the same time. A hand held tubing bender was used. It was sized for 1/4" tubing, but worked reasonably well on the larger M8 tubing. You need to work in steps, slowly bending the tubing to rough shape and then finally cut it to length and then make the final bends. Increased gas flow / heat output from 7500 BTU/hr. up to 9500 BTU/hr. or 2.7KW. Flame control is vastly improved and boil time in a large stock pot went from 15 to 14 minutes. This was with 2 qts. water, 2 lbs. of ham shanks and 1 lb. of split peas in a 6 qt. stock pot. On the electric kitchen stove, that takes 11 - 12 minutes to bring to a boil on the large burner. In comparison, as delivered this burner on propane took 14 minutes to boil a single quart of water. SABAF burners, valves and fittings: http://www.sabaf.it/en/products/accessories/77/fittings-and-plugs-0 Norgren / Enots Compression Fittings: http://www.accltd.com/products.asp?category=Pneumatic+Fittings&subcategory=Norgren+Enots+Metric+Brass+Compression+Fittings Ebay listing for the M13x1 tube nut: https://www.ebay.com/itm/400409794354 Brass ferrule for M8: https://www.mcmaster.com/compression-fittings M8 copper tube: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soft-Copper-Tube-Coil-Refrigeration-8mm-0-315-OD-X-6mm-0-236-ID-X-1m-GY/183417012321 M8x1 to 1/8" NPT: https://www.fittings.space/gtm2p-02zf-m8x10m 1/8" NPT street elbow: https://www.mcmaster.com/pipe-fittings 1/8" NPT to 1/4" compression: https://www.fittings.space/tbc2p-04-02zm 1/4" soft copper tube from the local hardware store. More to come... Subscribe for more content like this Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon And as always, thanks for watching Intro/Outro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgJewZgAVTk

Showing my work flow for printing ABS plastic on BuildTak With the printer enclosure, I find about 10 minutes with the bed at printing temperature heats up the build volume sufficiently to give successful ABS prints. I track filament usage with a simple spread sheet that totals up the Cura material estimates for each print I run. You can see when I was approaching 1000g on Roll 1, I stepped down to print smaller parts until I ran the filament out. If you start a 100g print and have 90g of filament left, the print won't finish and that 90g of filament is scrap. I'm using the printer to print several parts my business sells and that is working quite well. I've fine tuned the 3D model for these parts to where now I don't have to do any hand work on the part, it comes off the printer and can ship to a customer. Next video is a look at the G2 extruder: https://youtu.be/Z0xwubrsbYk Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching SOUNDTRACK: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGRWi2eQ97s

Here's what's inside one of my low voltage lighting relay boxes. This relay box let's me safely interface low voltage lighting to the high voltage household wiring. This box will be going in my patio and be controlled by a 12V wall transformer plugged into an outlet that's controlled by a wall switch inside the house, as required by code. Using a Class 2 UL listed 12VDC wall transformer provides a safe interface between the high voltage (Class 1) wiring in the house with the low voltage (Class 2) wiring for the LEDs. As long as I keep the voltage below 30VDC and the power under 100W and keep the low voltage wiring physically separate from the high voltage house wiring (via the wall transformer), the wiring is safe both in terms of shock and fire hazard. Here I test the power consumption of the wall wart: https://youtu.be/O8r0Ab0-bKk I use both the wall transformer and a switch to control the relay. The wall transformer allows me to utilize the wall switch in the house to operate the LEDs just as if they were powered off the grid. The switch allows me to manually operate the LEDs in case the power is off. I've been using these relay boxes for several years now around my house with no problems at all: https://youtu.be/I8FwHQttewU https://youtu.be/WUJ1RMi28Ug I power the boxes off a fuse block, typically with a 5A or 7.5A fuse to stay below the NEC Class 2 power limit on a nominal 12VDC system. These circuits are no different than your doorbell, furnace thermostat, TV cable or phone wiring. I don't intentionally ground the low voltage system as low voltage lighting circuits are not supposed to be grounded, at least here in the US: http://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/know-rules Be sure and check your local electrical codes to ensure compliance. I chose this approach as it requires no major changes to the house wiring and it's safe. All I need is a switched outlet to plug the wall transformer into. For my patio, all I did was replace the light fixture with a receptacle and that was it: https://youtu.be/HpNYN3xciKQ Schematics available on-line: SPST switch: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B89_DmuFw50kVVQ2NmhsanZIQUk SPDT switch: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B89_DmuFw50kZy1qRXd4cU5uWUU Soundtrack: Solar Flares by Silent Partner https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary/music ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZx2Px5f-ZQ