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Today we talk about the Diablo 16-Piece Electrician's Holesaw kit, and how it differs from most other hole-saw brands out there. This kit is primarily for drilling out holes for conduit fittings, so the sizes are limited to what electricians use for terminating into enclosures.
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What I really like about this kit is that it doesn't have a bunch of random sizes that you won't use. It's got everything an electrician needs for doing conduit work. Now I'll admit, I still keep a large selection of other sizes from other brands around because I've found certain bits for certain applications that I use over and over. But I'd rather pick these out myself than have a kit with a bunch of useless sizes included in it.
Diablo's arbors are a little different as well. They use a snap-lock mechanism to adhere the bits into the arbor, which are proprietary for their bits and arbors. However they do include adaptors in the kit for using other brands' bits. You can't use another brand's arbor with the Diablo bits, however, which I do see as a downside to the design...but as long as you keep up with your arbors you shouldn't need to use any others.
This isn't a carbide kit but I find that it does an outstanding job of tackling both wood and metal projects. If you're working with extremely hard or thick metal you should definitely upgrade to a carbide holesaw kit or you'll find yourself burning through teeth often.
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This episode covers the basics of installing an electrical switch. I cover mounting boxes, drilling holes, running 12/2 romex from a power source to a new switch box. From that switch box I install another piece of 12/2 romex to a light above. After wiring and rough-in I install a decor single-pole 15a switch and a keyless fixture with a lightbulb.
I talk briefly about how to rip out wires and twist joints, as well as how to test with a multimeter using continuity to see whether or not a bulb is bad. This is the very beginning of a series from basic to advanced that will show apprentice electricians several different ways to install electrical materials and devices.
**Disclaimer - These videos are for training purposes alone, all work done on electrical systems should be done by a licensed and insured electrical contractor. If you are not an electrician, do not attempt any of the work you are seeing in these videos.**
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Every tradesman has tools. But let’s face it- us electricians LOVE our hand tools! In fact, most of us even have way more tools than practical! And we each have our favorites depending on the work we are performing. In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin runs us through his top 10 favorite tools that he keeps on his tool belt.
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1. Klein Stubby Multi Screwdriver. There are times when you are working in an area that is too small for a regular screwdriver- ceiling fan installations for example. The multi screwdriver has 2 different Phillips and Flathead tips. Also, remove those tips and you have a ¼” & 5/16” nutdrivers to boot! Keeps you from having a whole bunch of screwdrivers in your pouch. Super useful!
2. Klein Extended Length Multi Screwdriver. Same as the above, but in an extended length for normal everyday use.
3. Klein 27-in-1 Terminal Screwdriver. There are times when us electricians are working extensively on controls wiring or landing wires on terminal blocks. There are just about every variation of terminal tips stored in the handle. The end also spins making it much easier when landing wires on a terminal block.
Pro tip. When using multi screwdrivers. Keep them in your pouches with a solid bottom on them. overtime the tips can become a bit loose and prone to falling out of the shaft. In addition, these types of screwdrivers are NOT meant to be beat upon as this will damage the tips and shaft rendering the screwdriver useless.
4. Knipex Electricians Multi-tool Pliers. Needle nose, wire strippers, crimper, round wire cutters, and 1000v rated- what’s not to like here? Again, keeps you from having to keep several different flavors of pliers in your tool pouches. Knipex arguably makes some of the best pliers around.
5. Klein Crimping Pliers. If you are crimping wires all day, it makes sense to have a pair that will cut, strip, and crimp insulated and non-insulated wires. Long handles for added leverage.
6. Milwaukee 25’ Tape Measure. A good tape measure is a must for electricians. Milwaukee’s tape measures have a wide blade so it won’t break when holding at length, numbers on both sides, a wide magnetic tip, and even an architectural scale for interpreting drawings.
7. Milwaukee 90 Degree Drill Attachment. Gets into tight spaces where room is at a premium, but allows you to use your power drill in lieu of using your hands. Awesome tool here!
8. Klein Magnetic Torpedo Level. A definite must have for any electrician installing conduit or panels. 4 different angles from 90, 45, 30, and flat level. Super strong magnet to hold to your work surface and built out of aluminum so it’ll withstand being dropped.
9. Fluke T5-600 Tester. All-around well-built tester with only the functions you use on a daily basis. Auto ranging from Ac to DC, 100a amperage testing capacity, 600v rated, non-removable leads (less to break and wear out), and ruggedly built to withstand everyday use. Fluke makes the best meters for the electrical industry!
10. Milwaukee Electricians Fishing Sticks. Glow in the dark, 3 different sizes, with several different end attachments to suit almost any need of fishing wires. The three different sizes also can be threaded together to give you up to 30’ in length. Super handy to have when working in ceilings fishing wires/cables back and forth.
We hope this has been an insightful look into Dustin’s favorite hand tools. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #what #hand #tools #are #you #missing
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Have you ever felt like you were being passed up by your peers? Or that you just aren’t good enough to keep going at what you are working for? In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin explores the difficult topics of self-doubt/self-worth and offers some advice on how to combat those feelings and work to be the best you!
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One of the things that perhaps makes us feel that way, can be age. The difference say between being a boy and being a man (or a girl and a woman!). Continuing the story as our folks have told us to (which isn’t bad, not at all!!), doing the only way we have known how, versus writing our own story, making our own decisions based upon what experiences we have had and those we wish to have. That is the difference between boyhood and man hood. Write your own story, go your own way in life! It is YOUR life after all.
Take for instance being an electrician (or tradesman). While many in society may look down upon blue collar workers, someone must keep the lights on, right?! We get to work with our hands and build cool things!! And some folks will beat us up about not going to college and not having anything while working in said construction job. But that is where we need to make some choices. We can listen to those folks (and perhaps the voices in our own heads) telling us that we are not good enough, or we can become the best version of ourselves that we can! Be the best electrician, start a you tube channel, do a podcast- whatever it is you are led/feel compelled to do! Its up to each of us, but we needn’t listen to everyone else to define us and what success should be.
And, if you are not happy with those choices that you have made, then make others! Change your trajectory!! Set goals and have a plan. Get into a routine. Wake up early and get ready for your day, in lieu of waking up at the very last second and screaming into work. Be responsible and plan for unforeseen things (like traffic, accidents, or stop lights). Be that guy/gal that shows up for work ready to make the most out of the day, not the one who is just existing through it! And while you are setting those goals, make sure and write them down/type them. Written goals tend to be the ones that we stick to the best! And then break those goals down into the yearly, weekly, daily steps that you need to take to achieve those goals. Make sure also to reward yourself along the way when you achieve those goals! That way, you don’t get to the end only to realize that it wasn’t all that great, and you are immediately on to the next one! They can be small rewards or large, that is all dependent on you, the individual
Positive thinking is also super important! You are in control of your thoughts, no one else is! Be appreciative of what you DO have, be appreciative of yourself. We are not perfect, and sometimes the negative thoughts creep back in. But, when that happens, recognize it, and change those thoughts. Not to play down serious dark thoughts. If it’s a constant deep/dark pattern that you cannot shake, then consider speaking to a professional and getting some help.
We hope that this has been helpful for you to recognize your own worth and give you some tools to help vault you along to reach your goals? What are some of the things that you do to motivate yourself? Leave some of those things in the comment section below; we would love to hear!! Please continue to follow Electrician U as we are constantly making new content to assist our followers along on their journey to being the best self that they can be!!
#electrician #electrical #electricity #trademan channel #power issues #self helpless
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An important question was raised by one of our viewers. Why do we bond at the Service Panel and not at the Subpanels? A very valid and super important question that Dustin brings answers to in the latest episode of Electrician U.
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So, in a typical scenario, we would bring our ungrounded (hots), grounded (neutral) and grounding (ground) conductors into our service. This is at the point that we would bond the grounded and the grounding conductors together. From there, our all the conductors leave and can enter another panel where they are kept separated with no bonding. The primary reason for that grounding conductor is to set an alternate path back to the voltage’s source (breaker or fuse etc.) in case something happens, so there is another path back for the breaker to trip. Without that alternate path, the chances for someone to get shocked are considerably higher.
One of the reasons we separate the conductors past the Service Panel has to do with Objectionable Current. Simply stated, it is current that is going multiple directions at the same time; those directions we DON’T want it to go in! normally, that current leaves the source on the ungrounded wire, travels through the source, and returns to the source on either the grounded conductor or the other ungrounded conductor at the equipment. Objectionable current would be if a wire came off and touched something it wasn’t supposed to and sent the current somewhere else. The neutral conductor is expected to carry current; ground wires are not meant to carry them on anything other than a fault condition. If we didn’t bond the neutral and ground together at some point, we potentially could have objectionable current flowing on BOTH the neutral and ground at the same time and trying to return to source creating a considerable amount of havoc along the way!
If there was an event, say a ground fault where o
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As electricians, we know that panels are where we source our power for devices, fixtures, and equipment. But how do they really work? In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin explores this topic in the hopes of helping us understand.
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To start, lets explain the basic components that are in electrical panels. We have incoming lugs. This is where you would land the wires from the SOURCE feeding the panel itself. You will have one for each phase (or hot) conductor, one for the neutral, and one for the ground. Next, we will have the panel interior itself. This contains the buss for each of the phases and is where the load side breakers will attach. It also contains a few pieces of insulating material that keep the phase busses isolated from the metal current carrying pieces within the panel that it shouldn’t touch. Finally, we have a main breaker. This allows us to shut the entire panel off with one throw of a single switch. It also provided overcurrent protection for the panelboard as a whole. There are instances where a MCB (main circuit breaker) are not needed, in which case you will only have the MLO (main lug only) that we discussed above. As a side note, main breaker kits are available for some panels, so you have the provisions to add that main breaker if desired or necessary.
The buss bars within the panel alternate and are usually the point that many starting out electricians have confusion. Breakers in panels are generally lined up in two rows. Odd numbered circuits on the left and even numbered circuits on the right. So, the top slot usually contains circuit numbers 1 & 2. These are on the A phase (or the black incoming wire). The next slot contains circuit numbers 3 & 4. These are on the B phase (or the red incoming wire. This pattern repeats itself all the way down thru the entire panel. A, B, A, B, A, B……... This changes a little when we introduce a 3-phase panel in that the sequence goes A, B, C, A, B, C…... So, breakers across from each other are on the same phase, but the breakers provide a different circuit for each.
What is important to know here is that via the breaker, the outgoing wire, your load, and the returning neutral form a complete circuit (loop) allowing current to flow. The current leaves the breaker, travels thru the load (or loads) and comes back to the panel on the neutral (or other hot if you are using a 2 or 3-pole breaker. In the panel itself, the neutral wire is attached to the neutral buss, which is attached to the neutral wire back to the transformer. The phase that you are using is also attached to the incoming phase wire from the transformer. The loop is now complete, and current is allowed to flow.
The individual breakers in the panel provide protection for the conductors and the load that they are serving. They also allow us additional control of those loads by affording us the opportunity to shut them off if needed. These breakers can come in several different ampacity ratings and a few different protection types (AFCI and GFCI being among them). Breakers can also be single pole (serving one single circuit), 2 pole (serving 2 hots) or three phase (serving equipment that utilize 3 phase power like motors, other panels, transformers, etc.).
We hope this has been helpful in understanding the different components of a panel and how those components work together to form loops and let current flow. Is there a topic you would like to see a video made on? Leave a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians they can be.
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There are a lot of sometimes confusing terms that we must learn as electricians. Especially considering that there are many different terms used to describe the same thing! In the latest episode of Electrician U, Dustin explains Feeder & Service Entrance Conductors, Mechanical Execution of Work, and Panelboards.
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Article 100 of the NEC defines Feeders as “all circuit conductors between the service equipment, the source of a separately derived system, or other power supply source and the final branch circuit overcurrent device”. In essence, a set of wires leaving the service and “feeding” another panel or distribution point. There are two definitions for Service Entrance Conductors in the NEC (one for overhead and one for underground). An overhead service entrance conductor is defined as “The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and a point usually outside the building, clear of building walls, where joined by tap or splice to the service drop or overhead service conductors”. An underground service entrance conductor is defined as “The service conductors between the terminals of the service equipment and the point of connection to the service lateral or underground service conductors”. So, the term feeder really describes a set of conductors AFTER the service feeding something while service entrance conductors describe the conductors BRINGING IN the service to our building.
When it comes to HOW we install our electrical work, we must install it correctly and properly not just a rag tag installation! Article 110.12 of the NEC tells us “Electrical equipment shall be installed in a neat and workmanlike manner”. That in itself tells us that we must install our work in a neat systematic order. The code goes on to tell us that we must close up any unused openings (we don’t want someone sticking something into a panel that would cause an arc flash), that the parts of the equipment cannot be damaged or contaminated with anything they aren’t supposed to have on them and that cables & conductors installed exposed on a surface of ceilings and walls shall be supported in a fashion that will not damage the cables.
Article 408, Part 3, governs the installation of Panelboards. Article 408.30 specifically tells us that the panelboard shall be protected by an overcurrent protective device that does not have a rating greater than the panel itself. So, you cannot protect a 225a panel with a 400a breaker! The panel could fail before the breaker trips. The NEC also states that the overcurrent protective device shall be located within or at any point on the supply side of the panelboard. That is why some of the panels we encounter are Main Lug Only and some are Main Circuit Breaker. As long as the panel is being protected by an overcurrent device on the Line Side of the panel, then the breaker doesn’t necessarily need to be IN the panel. However, Article 225 Part 2 (buildings or other structures supplied by a feeder or branch circuit) has some additional items to consider. 225.31 says that a building or structure have a disconnecting means for it. So, if you have a separate building it needs to have a means of disconnect for that building. That COULD be a panel or a disconnect. Many times, it is easier to place a panel on the exterior of the separate building and therefore provides a means of disconnecting power to that building.
We hope this has been helpful in understanding some of the terms and codes in the NEC. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed? Leave a comment in the comment section and let us know! Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly adding new content to help our followers be the best they can be!
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If you're about to get into the residential electrical career path, there are some materials you should become accustomed to. The better you understand what we work with the easier you'll know the jargon we use, and what we're talking about.
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0:30 - ROMEX
0:35 - NON-METALLIC SHEATHED CABLE (NM)
0:51 - STAPLES
1:31 - NAIL ON BOX
1:51 - ONE GANG
1:53 - TWO GANG
1:58 - THREE GANG
2:00 - FOUR GANG
2:18 - POP IN BOX
3:07 - ROUND NAIL ON BOX
3:24 - ROUND POP IN BOX
3:45 - PANCAKE
4:14 - FANCAKE
4:55 - FAN BRACE
5:44 - BAR HANGER
6:31 - DUPLEX RECEPTACLE
6:57 - SINGLE RECEPTACLE
7:23 - GFCI RECEPTACLE
8:17 - SINGLE-POLE SWITCH
8:48 - THREE-WAY SWITCH
10:40 - CIRCUIT BREAKER
11:10 - AFCI BREAKER
11:13 - ARC-FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER
12:03 - CARFLEX
12:04 - FLEX
13:04 - CARFLEX CONNECTORS
13:15 - CARFLEX 90
13:41 - STRAIGHT CARFLEX CONNECTOR
13:53 - AC DISCONNECT
15:02 - BELL BOX
15:35 - IN-USE COVER
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As we have mentioned before, as electricians, we work in an industry that is on the cutting edge of technology and is a constantly changing environment. In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin talks with the folks at Schneider Electric, at NECA 2022, about some of the new items that they are launching into the field.
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First up is Schneiders Square D Easy UPS. First, lets discuss what a UPS is. Normally when you lose power to your building from the utility, there is (or can be) a generator/ATS that will fire up and transfer power until the utility comes back online. But what about that period of time from when the utility fails, and the generator comes fully online? THAT is where a UPS comes in. It essentially is a bank of batteries and some sensing equipment that will carry the load until the transfer happens from the generator. So, there is no loss of power at all! Some UPS are large enough to be able to handle the load WITHOUT a generator and can carry the load for a reasonable long period of time.
There are a few great items that set Schneiders UPS apart from the standard UPS systems. First, it is centered around the customer/electrical contractor to have a more hands on approach to its design/purchase. You can select the functions/sizes you need and then just put it in for order! They also are much easier for the contractor to install and the owner to maintain. There is one box on the back side for all the line/load/grounding connections making installation a breeze. Additional battery banks are available if you have the need of a larger system.
Schneider has also come up with meter/main panel. This new panel will replace the traditional need to set the meter separately then pipe over to your main panel. It is built with the 2020 code in mind and carries the necessary items to be code compliant. This encompasses the labeling on the outside for first responders to be able to locate the main and shut power off, barrier between the meter section and the load section, the barrier on the line side of the main breaker (so the layman doesn’t stick their hands where they shouldn’t!!), among many others. It is set up with the new style of plug on neutral bussing, which can also handle the requirement for a surge protector inside the panel. And to further better the panel, you can just swap the breaker out (on a 200a rated setup) if you needed to have a smaller breaker, thus negating the need to have several different types/ratings of panels. There is space to install their smart monitoring product WITHIN the panel, as well as room to install the necessary components to bring in generator back up or solar power. Schneider currently is manufacturing this for underground feeds only, but an overhead service type is being researched! A great product that will cut down on install time.
Finally, Schneider has continued to refine their Flex Set style of switchboards. While these have been around for a couple of years now, they are now able to offer them up to 2500a! The idea of this product is a modular type set up that allows the electrical contractor to basically design/purchase the modular components to fit their specific needs and then assemble the components while maintaining the necessary UL Listings! This is something that will drastically cut down on our current lead time issues as factories are still severely behind in production of finished components. There are almost an endless variety of options for this newer style of gear from mains, secondary breakers, monitoring, etc. as well as a new style of bussing jumpers that allow the installation of multi section switchboards to be installed much faster and more efficiently! Looking forward to seeing more of this product in the future.
We hope that this has been an insightful look into some of the new products being manufactured by Schneider. Is there a topic you would like to see a video for? Leave a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #schneider #electric #new #products #stay #up-to-date
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