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This week we get to take a tour of the manufacturer of an electrician's best friend. We get an inside look of how a Klein Linemens pliers are made. We get an inside look at the process and the many many phases throughout the factory.
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What Are Lumens and Why They Matter: Forget about watts when it comes to lighting! Explore why they are the true measure of light output. Discover how watts only tell us about energy consumption, while lumens tell us about the actual brightness of a light source. Don't miss out on understanding the science behind lighting - subscribe now!
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I had the opportunity to go to STAFDA again this year and while there I got to check out Diablo's new products coming out in 2020. For electricians, there are some great things coming across the horizon.
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The first thing I saw the Diablo crew demo was their new carbide rotary-hammer bits that are much stronger than before. They claim the bits do much better when drilling concrete with rebar in it, rather than being torn up as standard masonry bits do. Next, they showed off their self-feed whole-saw bits which have changed from a single-blade design to a dual blade design. The difference between the power and speed of cutting through material is obvious. Just be sure not to hit nails...
CERMET CARBIDE circular saw blades which they launched at Stafda 2018, but have been expanding as time goes on. I find it pretty awesome that we can now use circular saws to cut metal with, rather than having to use a cutting wheel. After that they broke out some of their new carbide recip blades, which are still the best around. They just do an outstanding job of cutting through.....everything. Metal cutting has been the biggest thing lately. They've been putting a lot of work into perfecting metal cutting, and are doing a stellar job at it.
Next, they rolled out the new uni-bits; which they've really nailed down the design of their tips. Traditional uni-bits (stepped bits) tips get dull very quickly because of the tolerances and angle it's machined at, so that's what Diablo set out to solve. They've also released several "impact-rated" uni-bits for use in impact drivers. This is personally my favorite thing to see. I don't use standard uni-bits anymore, all I use are impact stepped bits. They don't have to rotate as fast, so they don't get as hot, and the cutting edge stays sharper longer because it's making less revolutions around when cutting the material. It does an outstanding job really. Just drill slow, let the bit do the work, no lube or cutting oil needed.
The next thing they showed off was their new masonry grinding wheels. These are actually blades, not just wheels. They will fit on several different types of grinders, old and new. Other than there were not a lot of crazy new products this year. They still have some great sanding stuff, hole-saw bits, drill extensions,
#diablo #blades #metal #cutting
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Tamper Resistant receptacles can be a pain in the butt to plug things into, so many homeowners and business owners request that we don't put them in. But there is an important reason why they're required by the National Electrical Code. Let's break one open and see how it works, then talk about the NEC articles associated with them.
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Tamper Resistant Receptacles or TRR’s
· Article 406.12 of the 2020 NEC
· Finally being fully incorporated in 2008, these protective receptacles have been found in the NEC since the early 80’s,the code requiring “Tamper Proof” receptacles in all pediatric care facilities by 1981 and later psychiatric wards in 1984. The terminology switched to “Tamper Resistant” in 1990, the NEC dropping it’s requirements for psychiatric wards in 1993.
· TRRs are required for all 15- & 20-amp receptacles below 5ft 6 in (66”) in all areas children might find themselves wandering about, including residential buildings, childcare facilities, hotels, waiting rooms/ hallways of medical facilities, and most "assembly occupancies" (auditoriums, gyms, transportation waiting lobbies, skating rinks etc.) exception: appliance circuits that are not easily accessible (mircowave, fridge and others)
· How? Internal shutters on loaded springs block foreign objects from being inserted until an equal force is applied into both the hot and neutral terminals. If excessive force is needed, it usually means uneven pressure is being applied by the blades of the plug or there is a problem with the receptacle itself.
· Why? TRRs so far appear to be the most complete solution to childhood shock/electrocution caused by receptacles. The most common objects inserted into receptacles being hairpins, keys and paper clips. Outlet caps (the most common and affordable option) seem to provide very little protection. Studies prove that most children over two could remove caps, and the risk of babies putting the caps in their mouths outweighed the benefit of shock protection. In fact, plastic plug inserts are not approved by any of the major listing companies for child protection uses, only listed as insulating devices aimed at energy conservation.
· Price differs between TR and standard by only around 50 cents p
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Trust me- from a journeyman/master electrician, some of the more baffling things to work on and interpret are controls. Motor controls, lighting controls, etc. can be very elaborate and very difficult to understand. The options on what one can do with controls and how it can be done are all but endless! In today’s episode of Electrician U, Dustin talks about some of the basics.
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A big thank you to today’s sponsor Schneider Electric. Schneider Electric makes some of the best electrical equipment on the market. From panels, to switchboards, to control components, they have almost everything an electrician could need to install. They even have control components via their Easy T eSys line of products. This line has several contactors and accessories that have excellent price points and are readily available at many supply houses- even online! If you are wiring a complex control cabinet or a simple contactor installation, check out the Easy T eSys line from Schneider. They will certainly have a product to suit your needs.
So, what are controls? In essence, controls are a way to electrically turn something on and off. Maybe a light switch? It controls a fixture/fixtures. What about multiple lighting circuits needing to be controlled by a single flip of one switch? Well we would use a multipole contactor and some type of switch turning that contactor on and off. Motors are another thing we can control. Again, enter the contactor and some type of switch that tells that contactor when to turn on and off.
So, there are two basic types of control components. The first one is the equipment that handles the normal power circuit for what you are wanting to turn on/off (lighting, motors, etc.). For that we typically use a relay or contactor. A relay is much smaller and capable of much less amperage than a contactor. Contactors are usually much larger, can carry more amperage, but can control less items. Contactors even have auxiliary contact points that can be added to suit additional needs. Say when you turn a motor on, you want a light to come on letting everyone know that the motor is running. Simply add an auxiliary contact to the contactor, use the NO contact point (NO-normally open= like it is sitting on the shelf, the contact points are open. NC-normally closed= sitting on shelf, the contact points are closed), and when the contactor closes and the motor begins to turn, the light comes on.
The other type of control component is something that interacts with the items being controlled- something that controls the controller. A simple switch falls in here. Flip the switch, something comes on. Flip it the other way, something goes off. A timer is another. It will allow the contact points to close and current to flow for a set amount of time, then it opens and current ceases to flow. A start/stop button is a great example of this. You want the motor to come on press the start button (usually wired on the NO contacts). You want the motor to stop just press the stop button (wired using the NC contacts- so it’s a failsafe). A limit switch is another way we can interact with a process. When some type of object moves past a certain point in a process, a limit switch can shut the process down and even do something else like turn a light on letting someone know that maybe a door has opened further than it should have, so they can go correct the problem. Photocells also fall into this category in that when ambient light is abundant, the circuit remains open, and the lights stay off. When ambient light is less (or none at all) the circuit closes, and the lights come on. Again, the options on what you can do with control wiring are all but endless!
We hope this has been helpful in understanding the basics of controls. Is there a topic you would like to see discussed here on Electrician U? Leave us a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #motorcontrol #controls
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Now that we've gotten the enclosures mounted on the wall and the riser built it's time to install the breakers and tie this service up.
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I've landed my service entrance conductors into their places, now it's time to start dealing with the circuit breakers and branch circuits. When this house was wired it was done so by utilizing multi-wire branch circuits rather than individual branch circuits. This is a tad unfortunate, but not the end of the world. It just means getting arc-fault protection on the circuits per 210.12 of the 2020 NEC will be difficult, as it will require very expensive "shared neutral" 2-pole 20a AFCI breakers which cost around $100 each.
For the time being I'm just going to install standard 2-pole 20 breakers so that my multiwire branch circuits have a common trip feature, meaning both circuits that share a neutral will trip if either of the circuits have a problem. The last thing that you want is one circuit having a problem with a neutral and it affecting the other circuit because it doesn't trip.
I begin landing my neutral (grounded) conductors first. I decide to use a ground bus in the back of the enclosure to land each of my neutrals, and then run a conductor-dependent bonding-jumper to the neutral bus, rather than installing wirenuts and adding jumpers to every neutral in the panel. The problem is that the neutrals are too short for this new larger panel. But by adding a conductor depending bonding jumper.
I do the same thing for the equipment grounds, I add a bus in the bottom of the panel and connect it to the neutral by a conductor-dependent bonding-jumper. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THIS, THIS IS JUST MY CHOICE TO DO.
Lastly I knock out all of my dead-front tabs and put the panel back together, call the inspector, and power company to come back out and re-energize the service.
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This is Part 2 of the Shopping For Apprentice Tools video I did earlier, where I bought $600 in tools to donate to a local charity. We searched through several companies and found one that we really think is doing a great job helping less fortunate people get ahead.
Many of the tools we gave can be used for electrical as well as non-electrical jobs. We wanted to make sure that they had a set of electrical tools available for any non-permit-allowed electrical work they may come across, as well as have a spare set so if any of their electrical contractor partners need to use anything, they've got options available.
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