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20 Mar 2020 00:28:30 UTC
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Inside a switch-themed self contained LED light.
These have been about for a while. They're basically a fake wall switch with batteries and COB (Chip On Board) LED arrays in them so that they emit a good amount of light when turned on. The slight downside being that if you mount them in the same position as a normal switch they would be quite glaring when you were looking in their general direction.
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VIDEO
TEMU
temu-rechargeable-filament-light
While quite neat, this light could be looked on as a project for making a better and longer lasting version. It's supplied with a suspiciously low capacity 14500 lithium cell. The number means 14mm diameter and 50.0mm long, and these normally have a capacity of around 750mAh, so the 280mAh measured is well short of the desired capacity. That makes it an easy upgrade to just put in a new cell - preferably one with solder tags, as soldering directly to a lithium cell like this is a bit taboo due to the risk of heat damaging the internal separator.
There's also a position inside for an alternative rectangular cell with a rough dimension of 30mm by 40mm by 7mm. If the plastic cell guides are carefully cut out it could be possible to get a bigger cell in, including ones salvaged from disposable vapour devices. It should be viable to get a 1500mAh cell in to get five times the run time.
Note that the LED PCB needs to have the glue cracked and then the PCB rotated to align the slots with the threaded sides to come out easily.
When tested on a bench supply the current was:-
4.2V - high=200mA medium=125mA low=60mA
3.7V - high=150mA medium=93mA low=43mA
3.0V - high=58mA medium=37mA low=17mA
Processor cuts off at 2.4V
Quite a nice light with potential as the base for a custom project.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AhQ1W1fFBo
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NFC P
nfc-powered-flashing-fingernail-sticker
This is a tiny little sticker designed to be stuck to a fingernail prior to covering it with nail art.
It then flashes with pulses of power received from the NFC (Near Field Communication) coil in the back of your phone. I'm not sure if they are intended to be used with an app that makes the NFC coil more active, but I wouldn't really want a random app like that on my phone anyway, for security reasons.
Note that subsequent closer examination showed that it has a second 12 turn coil on the back to effectively double the number of turns to 24.
These stickers can also be used to locate the position of the coil in your phone by shifting them about and noting the intensity. They may also be effective on the coils of NFC readers, but do not work with the classic RFID 250kHz readers or QI charger coils.
The circuitry is interesting in the way it uses a simple voltage doubler based on high speed diodes and capacitors.
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INSID
inside-a-jutai-xmas-lighting-power
A look at the circuitry and isolation of a very common Jutai Christmas lighting power supply, as supplied with common sets of low voltage LED Christmas light strings.
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VIDEO
INSID
inside-a-bluetooth-speaker-bulb
A look at the circuitry inside a cheap bluetooth speaker that screws into a standard lampholder.
The quality of construction suggests that it's a highly evolved product. They've managed to fit the whole circuit on a single sided PCB which is quite a feat.
The only thing that lets the unit down is what appears to be an incorrect remote control that has been supplied with it.
Although I unclipped the front cover, it appears to be fitted with a bayonet cap arrangement and just pops apart when the front is twisted slightly. (Potentially exposing live connections inside.)
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VIDEO
INSID
inside-a-lidl-bottle-security-device
Having accidentally ended up with a (paid for!) bottle locked shut with one of these security caps, it suddenly became a challenge to open it.
The functionality is very good, and no amount of twisting and pulling was able to remove the cap - in fact it just locked on tighter! So without a suitably powerful magnet to release the latch I improvised by cracking the lock cap off with a thin screwdriver.
Obviously I then had to investigate the mechanism to see how it worked.
Given the difficulty that LIDL staff often have with removing these caps from bought bottles, it might be worth them trying a different approach. Place the bottle into the unlocking station and then twist the cap in the locking direction slightly to allow the ratchet to disengage easily.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDRfJ6eCoSY
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Created
9 months ago
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VIDEO
WIFI
wifi-socket-repair-fail
If this had been a simple fault it would probably have been an easy repair unless the power supply had failed with sooty track carnage. My first thought was that it would have been the usual drying of the secondary side smoothing capacitor, as they are put under a lot of stress by the high frequency of the power supply.
In reality it looks like the fault is with the brains of the unit, a classic WiFi enabled processor module. If it's not ESD damage or natural failure, then it could be that the software has been corrupted or that it has been accidentally bricked. Apparently the current draw was acceptable for a running processor, so the possibility of memory corruption is viable.
The only way to fix the device would be to use a new ESP module loaded with suitable software. It only seems to use three I/O (Input/Output) lines - the button input, green (?) LED and the transistor for switching the red LED and relay. You could either configure the I/O like for like, or use a loose module with flying wires for I/O and power.
For ESP geeks that would be an easy fix, and a golden opportunity to customise the socket with their chosen firmware and features.
I thought the issue with LED lamp glow might have been due to a snubber network leaking current across the relay contacts, but it's more likely that it was a polarity issue where neutral was being switched instead of live, and the glow was possibly current capacitively coupling through a grounded LED array with aluminium core PCB.
Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams.
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Created
1 year ago
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VIDEO
TEARD
teardown-of-a-british-electric-shower
It may sound horrific to some, but the UK commonly uses electric showers to heat the water instantly at the point of use. We do have hot water tanks or central heating systems, but it's just much more efficient to touch a button and shower under hot water in seconds.
There's a very low accident rate, with the few incidents involving very bad installations.
The one in this video is pretty old. Between 25 to 30 years old, with very retro electronics. I'm not a fan of electronics in showers at all. They just introduce reliability issues.
In this case though, the electronics were working fine right up to the end.
Time to get Ralfy my brother a new shower. (Without electronic controls.)
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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IKEA
ikea-småhagel-instant-review
Full length detailed technical teardown and reverse engineering can be found here:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0yrCSD3FAM
#shorts
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6sOzMFkdVM
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VIDEO
6W VS
6w-vs-10w-vs-13w-led-lamp-showdown-(with
I thought it would be interesting to compare three different power ratings of lamps from the same brand. These lamps came from a retail outlet called One Below, which is the reincarnation of Pound World. The 13W lamp was slightly more expensive than the others.
The circuitry is very typical of how non-dimmable LED lamps have standardised. They've chosen the very simple linear regulator approach, where as much voltage is dropped across the LEDs as possible, and the difference between that and the peak mains voltage (which the capacitor will charge to) is then dropped across the linear regulator chip and dissipated as heat.
That may sound inefficient, but in reality it's a very simple and reliable way to regulate the LED current.
The current through the LEDs is set by a programming resistor which is chosen to have a voltage of around 0.6V across it at the desired LED current. Increasing the value of that resistor reduces the current. Whereas many lamps use two resistors in parallel to fine-tune the current, these lamps have just a single resistor per regulator, which makes hacking them slightly harder as it involves replacing the original sense resistor with a new one, and that is made harder by the aluminium core PCB sucking heat away from the soldering equipment.
Theoretically, the 13W lamp can be hacked to half the power by just removing the sense resistor on one of the two regulators.
One of the best things about these lamps is that you can replace the diffusers with 3D printed versions in any shape and size you desire. But only after reducing the output power. At very low power levels this can make for some very attractive decorative lamps.
Here's a video about the custom lamp cover mod:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZKu9QMN5xw
Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams.
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