So the article today on the Wathammer Community site for the upcoming Tau Codex caused me to think for a moment. There's a few things in there to ponder: Are drones going to be part of the unit, or do they fork off into a separate unit once the battle starts. But the big one is, I wonder if they are going to change the weapon loadout from the current 3 weapon/support systems to 2 weapons + 1 support system. This would allow them to really make the XV8 more flexible without dropping firepower. Also they could make the XV8 Bodyguards more different from the standard XV8s by giving them a 2/2 or 3/1 weapon/support loadouts.
Cheap and easy MDF Terrain from eBay. For less than 8 quid delivered you get a nice pair of Generators made from 3mm MDF.
True, they are not as detailed as plastic or resin kits but for something you are only going to use on the tabletop and not be on display in pride of place in your Ikea Detolf there's nothing I've found that's more value for money than MDF kits and this is probably the best value for money kit I've found.
It's easy to assemble, took me less than 40 minutes (the instructions are available direct from the TTCombat website.
As of posting the Generators are £7.95 with free delivery.
https://ttcombat.com/
https://ttcombat.com/collections/sci-fi-utopia/products/generator
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TTCombat-Sci-Fi-Scenics-MKII-Generators-Great-for-Infinity/391324823176?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
*****THIS WAS NOT A SPONSERED REVIEW*****
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdhdtAYcURk
One of the key driving factors for starting airbrushing miniatures is so you are able to prime minis in any weather and saving the cost of rattle cans.
Certainly it was the main reason I got my first airbrush. Sure, being able to base coat easy is good, but being able to prime a batch of minis when it's pissing it down outside (or summer as we like to call it here) is the best.
My primer of choice is Vallejo Surface Primer, it's the only one i've used through the airbrush. I'm sure the other brands are fine, but I've only used Vallejo so it's the only one I can recommend..
I use black just so I can hide mistakes and missed bits easier.
All you need to do to use it is to thin it down at least 2 parts primer to 1 part paint. You might want to go thinner 1:1 if you're running a smaller needle. I'd forgotten I'd had to replace the needle/nozzle on Ol' Goldie cos I'd cack-handdedly snapped the previous nozzle during cleaning and the new one was smaller so I should have thinned it down more, but it still works ok.
The only trick to priming is to keep the airbrush moving with the air on, then feather the paint on and off so it slowly covers the model. Don't blast it out and don't stop moving the airbrush.
AMAZON AFFILIATE LINK::
https://amzn.to/3kCGt5Z - vallejo surface primer black
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y04mz11Awtc
Thinning paint for airbrushing is one of the key subjects that always comes up. This is the easiest way to explain how to thin your paints, showing it in a disposable shot glass.
Most of the time i would mix in the up of the airbrush but it's harder to see what's going on if you do it that way.
In future videos i'll show you how to save time and effort by pre-thinning your paints an transferring them to dropper bottles as well to make the whole thing easier...
Also in this video I talk about how to check the paint thinness and how to lay down the first layer of paint on the model. It's easy enough, just take your time and dont rush. go easy on the trigger while keeping the air flowing and keep the brush moving so you spread the spray and dont concentrate it in any one place.
AMAZON AFFILITATE LINKS:
https://amzn.to/2HxLi30 - Vallejo airbrush thinner
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn68FytodOY
Boy is he big. BEEFCAKE! There's some size comparisons in the vid, he's well bigger than even a Knight Castellan, only the Eldar Wraithlord comes close but he's so spindely it's no contest.
Building the body of the Taunar is actually fairly straight forward. There's a few things you need to watch but not much more than you need to do for other kits.
Firstly the toes, specifically the mediums sized outer toes. On mine, they were the first thing I glued, and I glued them pretty much sqaure to the main big toes. I really should have had them angled back a bit to help support the weight. It's not that it's unstable or anything but it could have been better.
Next gluing the pieces that make up the back is a bit tricky as there isnt much to guide you in getting them lined up correctly so i've an ever so slight gap on his left (the right side as you look at it) between the air intake and the torso. It's not much but it *is* there.
Also you want to take you time getting the legs just how you like them, there's a good range of motion on them so you can pose him how you like.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3t5UFkaKb4
Warhammer Community just dropped another preview article about the upcoming Tau Codex (ETA early 2022). This one covers the Railgun found on the Tau Hammerhead tank.
The previous stats from 8th edition for this gun were mediocre at best, you'd almost never want to take it but with these new rules I can see many Tau players taking at least one, perhaps up to 3 plus Longstrike.
All depending on points cost of course.
They also mentioned new markerlight previews, so I can see an article dropping on that sometime soon, hopefully at least.
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2021/12/29/nobody-is-safe-from-the-awesome-power-of-the-tau-empires-new-and-improved-railgun/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MG6Cf7p9pk
The New Gladiator from GW is a nice tank based off the Impulsor chassis. This video covers how to magnetize it so you can easily swap between the three variants of the tank, as well as switching it out to the Impulsor if you want to run it as the transport.
It's easy enough to do so follow along, but i'd watch the full video before you start building just to make sure you dont accidently glue something you meant to magnetize...
AMAZON AFFILIATE LINKS TO TOOLS USED IN THIS VIDEO:
https://amzn.to/3qM7Vm6 - 4mm x 1mm (goes into the turret to mate with the ones in the gun)
https://amzn.to/3qSCBSQ - 3mm x 2mm magnets ( goes into the gun in place of the pegs)
https://amzn.to/30ZQEuw - 3mm x 1mm magnets (used to prevent barrel droop)
https://amzn.to/3iUR63j - 2mm x 1mm magnets (used for the sponsons)
https://amzn.to/3nK4L0M - Pin vise hand drill with bits
#Magnetizing #GladiatorTank #Impulsor
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R6TJUIuXs8
the all new Primaris Captain with Master-Crafter Heavy Bolt Rifle- Now in Gravis Armour!
He's a nice model, easy to build but I did swap a few steps. It says to connect parts 1 and 2, then add part 3, but I decided that was too orthodox for me, so I connected parts 1 and 3, then added them to part 2. Take the GW!
Dont know how easy it'll be to convert this into anything else, but if you've any ideas, let me know in the comments...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbRvs1K_a1U
Kitbashing/Converting the Haldor Icepelt model from a Space Wolf to a Salamander using only the Salamanders Primaris upgrade sprue.
Nothing too fancy was done, I was tempted to do more with the arms, cutting the shoulder of the hammer arm to get it in a raised position, ready to strike, but the position i got without the cutting was nice anyway so I let it ride.
I tried the shoulder pad from an Agressor Sergeant but they don't fit intercessors unfortunately.
The main issue I had was I didnt like my first attempt at doing the scales of the cloak. I'd had some success before using a plastic core of a q-tip but there was none in the house so I tried bodging one from a paper core one dipped in super glue but it didnt work anywhere near as well as the plastic.
Then I saw a nice guide on reddit from u/Rookie3rror.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/comments/bd0k3i/how_to_sculpt_scaled_tabards_and_other_bits_of/
and as the more I looked at the first attempt the less I liked it, I decided to cut it off with a shart craft knife and give it a go. Took me a few goes to get it done but once I'd got it working properly it turned out nice.
#salamanders #40k #kitbash
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKpTmK4awKQ
In this video I respond to the Speed Paint an Ork Boy in 5 Minutes by making Lava Bases instead.
This is an easy technique but i'll admit it takes a bit longer than just gluing things to the base but I think the final effect is better.
Also I demand recognition for not using "all your base are belong to us".
My method for painting lava is similar to my painting molten metal video so check that out. https://youtu.be/xd8Qlmi88AQ
Basically just start bright yellow then add reds and oranges until its too red, then go back to yellows and maybe touches of white until you're happy.
Check out Simply Warhammer's channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSHBAeCt0NpuE7_-G0SLnzA
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8n8ydeiQz0