Showing how to operate UGS, spinning up the spindle before starting the G-code, how the enclosure attenuates the noise (not a lot), and the cutting process.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTcgnMGLeQQ
I've connected up my MIG welder to my CNC router so that I can use it to 3d print steel parts.
I'm using gasless flux-core ER70 wire.
Right now my setup is as simple as you can get, I'm even squeezing the trigger by hand.
I found some settings that are starting to look convincing, so next steps are to bring the trigger under CNC control, write some g-code to make a 3D part, and look at building a miniaturised torch that can weld with thinner wire and make smaller tracks.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxMiguSlZLM
Now with more travel (about 3mm instead of 1.5mm before), lighter feel, and more reliable spring.
The spring is printed flat on the bed 0.25mm tall and then folded up. This allows a thinner spring than would be achievable if printed in its final form, because then the thickness would be constrained to be no smaller than the nozzle diameter of 0.4mm.
The switch still has issues with reliability of the contacts. I think the next step is to add a springy bit to the central contact piece so that it makes contact before the bottom of the switch travel, and is able to flex around to contact both sides, so that we've ensured it has fully contacted once the bottom of the travel is reached.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9nWIeAYodI
I assume this is related to the flickery grey rectangle I was seeing before, except this time it has random bits of the scene rendered into it.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBZtcUavsyE