Here's our chance to ask question to my guest, Izzy Swan, and I LIVE! This episode is also available as an audio only podcast. All info is available at http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/brainpick/ Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Check out how I made a foosball table with 140 3d printed parts!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
See more info on the 3d printing
http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-build-a-foosball-table
Also, there's a small Behind The Scenes video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLchkFqzTNA&t=4s
3d printable pocket hole jig on Thingiverse
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1489845
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
Digital Plans - http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/product/foosball-table/
http://www.matterhackers.com/store/digital-designs/foosball-table-parts - Free Files for 3d printed parts
http://amzn.to/2sMzXQi - EMT conduit (buy it locally)
http://amzn.to/2aCJYGu - SawStop cabinet saw
http://amzn.to/2axFPsA - Skil circular saw
http://amzn.to/2axOLvq - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/2dcJoTR - Countersink drill bits
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2aCJP5O - Pancake compressor/nail gun combo
http://amzn.to/2aohcsD - 54" Drywall T-Square
http://amzn.to/2axFRRs - Jigsaw
http://amzn.to/2aCK6pu - Grizzly Drill Press (WAAAAY overpriced (3x) on Amazon, buy from Grizzly directly.)
http://amzn.to/2al3GKU - Kreg R3 pocket hole jig kit
http://amzn.to/2axFGW9 - Speed square
http://amzn.to/2mpfL3S - Foosball 4 pack
http://amzn.to/2md7h08 - Leveling table feet
http://amzn.to/2mPPkYR - Pipe cutter
http://amzn.to/2ay9XRX - CA Glue (medium)
http://amzn.to/2ay9T4v - CA Activator
http://amzn.to/2n8tR9B - 5 minute epoxy
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/ultimaker-2-3d-printer-fully-assembled?rcode=ILTMS - Ultimaker 2 Extended 3D printer
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/ultimaker-2+-extrusion-upgrade-kit?rcode=ILTMS - Ultimaker 2 extrusion upgrade kit
http://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-kits/Ultimaker-3-d-printer?rcode=ILTMS - Ultimaker 3
http://amzn.to/2jHcIFw - Digital Calipers
https://www.matterhackers.com/?rcode=ILTMS - All filaments, 3d printing supplies from MatterHackers
http://amzn.to/2al6w2q - Heat Gun
http://amzn.to/2ayihkF - Quikclot clotting sponge
http://amzn.to/2aLCCCN - First aid kit
http://amzn.to/2aovz06 - Respirator
http://amzn.to/2aW3nHn - Filters
http://amzn.to/2aY182W - Eye protection
http://amzn.to/2axUZ0X - Ear protection
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Links to everything you need to screen print your own t-shirts: http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/how-to-screen-print-your-own-t-shirts
Visit Casper.com/make and use the code MAKE for $50 off
Here's what you'll need:
(purchasing via these affiliate links supports ILTMS)
Photo Emulsion Kit (includes emulsion remover) - http://amzn.to/1JxIf3e
Screen Printing Ink (white) - http://amzn.to/1bzCCTH
Squeegee (multiple sizes) - http://amzn.to/1IiZ5S0
Aluminum Screen (20"x24") - http://amzn.to/1Fukkzo
Palette Knife - http://amzn.to/1bzDcAY
Blank t-shirts - http://amzn.to/1zjGhAl
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
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Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at
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Screen printing is a fantastic way to cheaply make branded items, or even one off custom pieces. Need a silly t-shirt to surprise a friend with? Printing it yourself is the cheapest way to make that happen! Kids can even get the hang of printing VERY quickly and be apart of the entire process, which is awesome!
Here are a few things that I didn’t cover in the video that I think will give you better results.
Use high dpi screens. These provide finer detail, and have significantly improved my prints.
Have someone hold your frame so that you can use two hands to evenly pull the squeegee.
If you don’t have access to a dryer for heat setting, you can cover the print with a piece of paper and iron it for a minute.
If using a dark material, look for an ink labeled “super opaque”. You’ll get a brighter colored print.
You’ll need a screen and squeegee to start.
Also, some photo emulsion for screen printing.
Add water to the sensitizer, then mix it with the emulsion.
Mix thoroughly until it’s an even green color.
Pour just a small amount onto the screen.
Use the squeegee to spread it evenly on both sides of the screen. Try to get even and full coverage by alternating directions and sides.
Dry the emulsion in front of a fan and IN THE DARK.
After it’s dry, quickly lay your artwork, backwards, on the back of the screen. You can print your art on transparencies at most office supplies stores or copy centers.
Tape the art in place, then lay on a piece of glass to hold it against the screen.
Apply a very bright light for 30-45 minutes.
You can also use sunlight, but the time may vary depending on cloud cover and placement.
The areas covered by your art do not get exposed when you remove the transparency.
Use a light spray and soft toothbrush to wash out the unexposed emulsion.
Be careful not to use too much force when spraying it out or you will remove emulsion around your design as well.
Use painters tape to mask any areas that you don’t want to print yet, or areas where the emulsion isn’t intact.
Layout your shirt on smooth, flat surface and remove wrinkles.
Place your design where you want it to be printed.
Lay a thick bead of ink above the art, extended past both ends. Be sure to add extra ink above large areas to be printed.
Even though I’m working alone here, you’ll have better luck to have someone hold your screen, then use two hands to evenly pull the squeegee fully across your screen.
Remove the screen and wash out all of the ink before it dries. After the ink dries, run your shirt through a clothes dryer for 5 minutes to heat set the print.
The screens can be reused by cleaning them with emulsion remover.
Spread a small amount across both sides of the screen.
Then use a hose to wash out the emulsion until the screen is clean. Dark inks will stain the material of the screen, but this will not affect future prints. Just make sure to remove all of the emulsion. Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Turn your ordinary home into a smart home with SmartThings https://www.smartthings.com/makestuff. Get 10% off featured or selected Kits plus free shipping to the US with the code MAKESTUFF
Sponsored by SmartThings Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
I used my cnc to make an aluminum and teak license plate.
Check out Gorilla Glue to find the items used in this video http://bit.ly/1MPKgsY
See the follow up video about how awesome the upgrade was at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtIprkZP-tE
Sponsored by Gorilla Glue
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
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HERE'S WHAT YOU'LL NEED:
http://amzn.to/1MqvGUe - Construction adhesive
http://amzn.to/1MzBb2V - Table Saw
http://amzn.to/1MzuWAN - Aluminum sheet (1/8"x12"x9")
http://amzn.to/1MGIQww - 1/8" to 1/4" bushing
http://amzn.to/1MzvE0S - Band Saw
http://www.inventables.com - X-Carve
http://amzn.to/1GH6mr6 - Wire brush
http://amzn.to/1Mqvx3j - Belt Sander
http://amzn.to/1GH6cQt - Endmill bit for cutting aluminum
http://amzn.to/1RaQzGy - Dewalt DWP611 Trim router
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve-dewalt-611-spindle-mount - DWP611 Mount for X-Carve
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In Illustrator, I drew a rounded rectangle 12"x6"
I duplicated that shape and scaled it down a little so it fit about 1/2" inside.
I added some text, and center aligned all three pieces.
I drew two rounded rectangles, to act as screw holes, and spaced them evenly.
I saved it all as a .svg file to import into Easel. I set the cut depth of each shape to it's desired amount, depending on if it was engraving or cut through.
I duplicated the file, and removed the outer shapes. I set the letters to be cut as an outline (outside the shape) to match the previous pockets cut out for the letters.
For materials, I used a scrap of 1/2" teak and a 1/8"x12"x12" piece of aluminum.
The aluminum cut VERY slowly because I didn't have the correct bit on hand, and I was using the stock spindle on the X-Carve.
It was slow, but it worked. I let it cut the screw holes and the inner outline before stopping the Easel operation. This caused the bit to return to it's starting position.
I switched out the bit to a new, sharp one and removed everything from Easel but the letters and made a very shallow pass on the outer perimeter as a reference line.
It still took a very long time to cut, but it did a great job.
I was surprised, and happy with the final product!
I resawed my teak scrap down to 1/4" thick on the band saw.
I clamped the piece down and ran the second Easel file, just for outlining the letters.
As a comparison, this cut took about 15 minutes.
The letters turned out very nicely. I didn't cut quite all of the way through on purpose so the pieces wouldn't fly off when they were free. I was able to gently push them out of the piece of wood.
I sanded all of the edges and faces of each piece to clean them up.
Using the shallow reference line, I used the band saw to cut the aluminum to it's final outer shape.
I rounded over the corners on the disc sander.
I used the belt sander to smooth out the edges.
I also laid it flat and sanded the full face of the plate to give it a "brushed" look.
I pressed each letter into place, which left marks where inner and outer cuts overlapped. Watch the video for a full explanation of why that happens.
You can see the small indention where the bit couldn't cut all of the way to the point of the letters.
Using that indention as a guide, I trimmed it away with a knife.
With a little trimming, each letter sat down in the plate correctly.
I cleaned up the screw holes with a drill bit.
I used a wire brush and a sanding block to even out the "brushing" effect on the face.
To attach the letters, I made a pile of construction adhesive on a scrap piece.
I used a small stick to apply the adhesive to the inner surface of the inlay. It doesn't take much and I tried to avoid squeeze out.
I pressed each letter into place after the adhesive.
I added a scrap and some bricks to hold the letters in place while the adhesive fully cured overnight.
After curing, the adhesive is a rubbery material that is easily removed with a sharp knife.
I added some tung oil to the wood and it was ready to mount on my Cruiser! Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
Check out how I made a Raspberry Pi media center using Kodi!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Sponsored by Kingston: http://kings.tn/UV400MS
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://amzn.to/2cu1hva - Raspberry Pi 3 kit (includes HDMI cable, SD card, etc)
http://kings.tn/UV400MSB - Kingston 480GB SSD
http://amzn.to/2ci9H9O - USB 3 to SATA III cable
http://amzn.to/2bOM8HE - Wireless Mini Keyboard
http://amzn.to/2aCJYGu - SawStop cabinet saw
http://amzn.to/2axFfv4 - Dewalt compound miter saw
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2axPah6 - Grizzly 14" Bandsaw
http://amzn.to/2awLSaO - Shop Fox Hanging Air Filter
http://amzn.to/2akFN6c - 2HP Dust Collector
http://amzn.to/2axPmNA - 1 Micron bag
http://amzn.to/2akGcWk - Classic steel ruler (cork backed)
http://amzn.to/2ay9XRX - CA Glue (medium)
http://amzn.to/2ay9T4v - CA Activator
http://amzn.to/2bOM5M5 - Super 77 adhesive
http://www.inventables.com?ref=iltms - X-Carve (CNC)
http://amzn.to/2anW7yq - Wire
http://amzn.to/2aCLdp7 - Soldering iron
http://amzn.to/2axPywo - Third hand kit
http://amzn.to/2aXbVud - Wire strippers (not the ones I have, but good ones)
http://amzn.to/2axQ4dP - Thin solder
http://amzn.to/2aXc3dy - Fiskars cutting mat
Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
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Learn how to make a bench from reclaimed pallet wood. The bench top is laminated strips.
You can help support my videos by becoming a patron at
http://www.patreon.com/iliketomakestuff
MORE PROJECTS
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FOLLOW:
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Last time we made the mold, now let's pour a life cast of my head! Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Sponsored by The Great Courses Plus
http://thegreatcoursesplus.com/makestuff
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
Custom Nerf gun video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6M0tZYSmCk
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://amzn.to/2axOLvq - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2ay8ICl - Dremel tool
http://amzn.to/2cr7ucv - Hydrocal (I used 4 bags)
http://amzn.to/2cwobnt - Apoxie Sculpt
http://amzn.to/2cmrZdx - Air dry clay
http://amzn.to/2cIZkvI - Lazy Susan Bearing (9")
http://amzn.to/2cepYgM - Chalkboard paint
http://amzn.to/2catJFf - Dry erase paint
Want to support ILTMS? Get early viewing, exclusive content and more...
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I made a floating coat rack/cubby using a french cleat, from baltic birch plywood.
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Here's what you'll need:
(purchasing via these affiliate links supports ILTMS)
Brass coat hangers - http://amzn.to/1MMT7ZN
Wood glue - http://amzn.to/1emnni1
Table Saw - http://amzn.to/1LClPPY
Miter Saw - http://amzn.to/1MMV48t
Polycrylic (satin finish) - http://amzn.to/1Ieev61
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com
Want to support ILTMS? There are lots of ways .. find out more at
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The back panel was a 10" tall piece of 3/4" birch plywood.
I cut down three pieces at 5" wide for the shelf section.
Using those pieces as a guide, I set a stop block.
Then I cut two matching width pieces for the end caps of the cubby.
Then I set a stop block to cut off 1 1/2" from the piece that would become the back panel. This is to help it fit inside the cubby.
I dry fit the pieces in place to test.
I marked along the bottom of the cubby so I wouldn't cut below that line.
Then I cut out a large section that was behind the cubby.
I set my table saw blade to 45 degrees.
Then, using the cutout from above, I split it approximately in half.
One of these pieces got trimmed down to 20" long, to become the wall cleat. The shorter length is to allow the shelf to slide back and forth on it.
I dry fit everything again and marked all joints with a line for adding biscuits.
I also set the remaining cleat on the underside of the top panel, and marked for biscuits.
Using a biscuit jointer, I added slots on all necessary pieces.
Marking all of the pieces ahead help make sure the biscuit slots line up.
I added glue to all of the slots and joint faces, then added biscuits into the slots.
All of the biscuit jointed panels were clamped together to dry.
The angle on the cleat made it hard to clamp, so I just glued it in place.
For biscuit jointing, you just have to line of the mark that you made, which should cross the joint.
The now cut out back panel got glued and screwed onto the back of the box.
With it flipped over, I added glue to the inside back surfaces.
Then I pushed in the back panel as far in as it would go.
I added some deep throat clamps to force the panel against the back to dry.
Using blue tape, I masked off the bottom front panel.
Also, I masked off the front faces of the cubby, trimming it to the edge with a sharp knife.
Using a 7 oz. color sample, I painted the front facing panel.
I also painted the inside of the cubby, covering all of it with two coats.
After it dried, I removed the tape and scraped away any paint that seeped under the tape, with a utility knife.
I covered the entire piece with two coats of PolyCrylic.
On the front panel, I marked the center point, then the center point of each end (splitting the face into quarters).
Then I laid out the coat hangers centered on my marks.
I predrilled the two holes on each hanger, so the screw wouldn't drift when being screwed in.
Then all three hooks were screwed in place.
I predrilled three holes in the wall cleat, one in the center, two at 8" from the center mark.
I screwed the cleat to the wall via the center hole, then leveled the cleat.
Holding it level, I added the two remaining screws.
Finally the shelf was hung onto the cleat, and adjusted laterally for placement. Second channel: bit.ly/iltms-2
I made some friends a media center/console table! This is a totally realistic woodworking project for anyone!
Subscribe to my channel: http://bit.ly/1k8msFr
Second Channel: http://bit.ly/iltms-2
Some friends asked me to make them a console table/media center for their first home! They also gave me some reclaimed pine flooring to use in the project. They requested some sliding barn doors to hide their game console and cable box when they weren't using them, so I found a great kit to easily add sliding barn doors to just about any project. This is a great woodworking project that I think anyone can do, even if it's their first big furniture project!
GET THE DIGITAL PLAN:
Coming Soon at https://www.iliketomakestuff.com/product/media-console-table-digital-plan/
MORE PROJECTS, POSTS AND EVENTS
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TOOLS LIST:
(some are better than the versions I own)
http://amzn.to/2sTcKOD - Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit
http://amzn.to/2tZET5h - Sliding Barn Door Hangers (2pcs)
http://amzn.to/2aCJYGu - SawStop cabinet saw
http://amzn.to/2s9zMgN - Dewalt Trim Router
http://amzn.to/2axFPsA - Skil circular saw
http://amzn.to/2axOLvq - Dewalt 20v drill driver combo
http://amzn.to/2da9fOJ - Evolution miter saw (cuts wood, alum, steel, etc)
http://amzn.to/2dcJoTR - Countersink drill bits
http://amzn.to/2akFubx - Orbital Sander
http://amzn.to/2aCJP5O - Pancake compressor/nail gun combo
http://amzn.to/2ay8ICl - Dremel tool
http://amzn.to/2axGlH9 - Kreg Rip Cut (circular saw guide)
http://amzn.to/2al3GKU - Kreg R3 pocket hole jig kit
http://amzn.to/2awLSaO - Shop Fox Hanging Air Filter
http://amzn.to/2akFN6c - 2HP Dust Collector
http://amzn.to/2axPmNA - 1 Micron bag
http://amzn.to/2axFGW9 - Speed square
http://amzn.to/2aD8zuD - Angle grinder *
http://amzn.to/2aXIIzk - Cut off wheels
http://amzn.to/2aok1d0 - Metal cutting bandsaw *
http://amzn.to/2ayihkF - Quikclot clotting sponge
http://amzn.to/2aLCCCN - First aid kit
http://amzn.to/2aovz06 - Respirator
http://amzn.to/2aW3nHn - Filters
http://amzn.to/2aY182W - Eye protection
http://amzn.to/2axUZ0X - Ear protection
Want to support ILTMS? Get exclusive content and more...
http://www.iliketomakestuff.com/patreon
BUY A SHIRT, STICKER, DIGITAL PLANS and MORE!!
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FOLLOW:
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