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13 Nov 2020 19:18:47 UTC
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38792
Author: Ruth Brandon
File Type: mobi
From Publishers WeeklyStarred Review. With wonderful attention to detail and real affection for her subjects, Brandon tells the story of Helena Rubinstein (18701965), a Polish Jew from a poor family with a small salon in Australia, who became the first woman tycoon and self-made millionaire. Her timing was excellent she struck at the moment when decent women, for the first time, were allowing themselves makeup and were willing to shop for it publicly. At the same time, a young French chemist named Eugene Schueller (18811957) was making his name in hair dyes (and later collaborating with the Nazis) it was his company, LOreal, that swallowed Rubinsteins business. The descriptions of Schuellers political scandals are fascinating, but the story shines when Brandon returns to Rubinstein, a stubborn, spirited woman who responded to a luxury Park Avenue apartments No Jews policy by buying the entire building, and who calmly thwarted robbers in her home at the age of 91. A clearheaded discussion of current beauty standards, vanity, and the gender politics of the modern cosmetic industry rounds out this lively history of the founding of the beauty business as we know it. (Feb.) (c) PWxyz, LLC. span 14px normalExposes of the beauty industry and its relatives, such as cosmetic surgery, are common these days, whether the chosen medium is film or print. In this particular instance, the link between LOreal (the acquirers of Helena Rubensteins brand) and Fascist collaborators, to mention just one scandal, is old news. Yet for undisclosed reasons, prolific London-based author Brandon (Being Divine, a biography of Sarah Bernhardt, 1991) deliberately selects the known, Helena Rubenstein, and unknown, Eugene Schueller, as appropriate counter-characters to profile. In a way, the two could not be more opposite. Flamboyant Polish Jew Rubenstein promoted everlasting female beauty through the mysterious workings of her creams and cosmetics, whereas chemist Schueller proudly publicized his invention of the first safe artificial hair dye. Brandon details their divergent philosophies (Eugene, for instance, was convinced that every woman belonged at home), their politics, their friendships, family, and passionsand the inextricable business and personal links to Nazi Germany and corporate lack of restitution for WWII wrongs. The story meanders, jumping back and forth chronologically, leaving some difficulty in following. --Barbara Jacobsspan
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1 year ago
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103652
Author: Catherine Cucinella
File Type: pdf
Poetics of the Body examines representations of the body in the work of four important twentieth-century poets Edna St. Vincent Millay, Elizabeth Bishop, Marilyn Chin, and Marilyn Hacker. Drawing on both past and present discussions regarding the place of the body in relation to Western philosophy, gender, sexuality, desire, creative production, and narrative, this study reveals how the poetic bodies in the poetry of these women negotiate the intersecting ideologies that attempt to regulate the body, its characteristics, and its behaviors. Ultimately, this dynamic book considers what it means to possess a body.ReviewCucinellas intense book about bodily representation provides a new way of seeing the work of Millay, Bishop, Chin, and Hacker. Its synthetic theorizations, brilliant close readings, and final dialogue with Chin bring the study of the represented female body to a new plateau. An essential book.Steven Gould Axelrod, author of Sylvia Plath The Wound and the Cure of Words and co-editor of The New Anthology of American Poetry, Volumes 1-3Poetics of the Body offers a first-rank conversation about the cultural politics of the body in recent American womens poetry. I predict that Cucinellas readings of Millay, Bishop, Chin, and Hacker will place her solidly at the forefront of a new wave of feminist scholars who write about poetry. This work is essential for anyone interested in the bodys often contentious relationship to gender, sexuality, race, ethnicity, and class.Camille Roman, author of Elizabeth Bishops World War II-Cold War View and co-editor of The Women & Language Debate A SourcebookCucinellas Poetics of the Body is a refreshing book. By listening attentively to the distinct story of the body that each of her four poets has to tell, Cucinella offers a compelling and diverse story of American womens poetry in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. For Cucinella, a poem is not a mask for the poet to hide behind but a place to explore and perform the problems, fears, challenges, and pleasures of the body. In elegant, theoretically sophisticated readings that ground each poets work in place, time, and experience, a unique poetics of the body comes into focusEdna St. Vincent Millays commodified body, Elizabeth Bishops ambiguous body, Marilyn Chins investigations of the body in the context of the Chinese American immigrant experience, and Marilyn Hackers complex intertwining of body and language. It is finally, though, the exuberance Cucinella conveys, the delight she takes in poetic craft, and the careful attention she pays to a poets body of work, that marks this book as worth reading.Bethany Hicok, author of Degrees of Freedom American Women Poets and the Womens College, 1905-1955About the AuthorCatherine Cucinella is Lecturer in the Department of Literature and Writing and the Womens Studies Program at California State University. She is the editor of Contemporary American Women Poets An A-to-Z Guide.
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English