Nice machining. Shame about the 'tronics. (Good base for a sci-fi prop.)
I had high hopes for this, since it looked very futuristic and functional. In reality it has a few design flaws that include the potential mistreatment of three high capacity lithium cells in parallel in a tough metal enclosure. The LEDs seemed to be fitted with what initially appeared to be a rather neat bit of heatsinking which might not be quite as good as it seemed.
On a plus note, the case is the perfect base for a sci-fi prop with lots of nicely machined parts.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1khXQahaaXI
It turns out that the video wall panel used in the TV series Project MC2 merchandise is actually a standard 75hub LED video wall module.
These modules are "dumb" in that they require a continuous stream of data being updated and scanned at high speed to create an image. This is quite an intense processor load, so these modules are usually used with dedicated drive cards that can receive image data and then output it at high speed to a grid of these panels.
Having identified the chips on the back of the PCB and sussed out how they might be driving the LEDs I attached a PIC microcontroller and wrote some software to drive the panels.
Initially I wrote a simple routine to display a single line of a single colour. The usual "Hello world" test to see if I had deduced the drive system correctly.
I then wrote a bit of software that can test the panels completely using a single microcontroller (PIC16F627A) with no other additional components other than a standard 100nF decoupling capacitor across the power pins. The same 5V supply used to power the panel can be used to power the test circuitry.
It starts by testing all the LEDs by displaying a full-panel colour sequence of red, green, yellow, blue, magenta, cyan, white and then a set of colour bars. Then it tests the output enable pin of the module by toggling it while displaying two lines of white LEDs which will flash if output enable is working. The microcontroller then tests the row drive MOSFETs by stepping through each line in turn on the top and bottom halves of the display simultaneously.
You can download the assembly and hex code files for this software with the following link, noting that the hex code can be directly loaded into a blank chip with a PICkit 2 or 3 programmer.
http://www.bigclive.com/freebies.htm
That same link can also be used to find the other test software that generates a continuously scrolling pseudo random pattern of coloured pixels that are dynamically generated in real time by software as each line is loaded during the screen refresh cycle.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dB1w99AwGE
It's a year since I experimentally sealed some solar lights with a thin layer of clear silicone sealant. It's very easy to do, but it's best used on metal or chromed solar panel surrounds as the silicone can peel from plastic.
The technique involves putting a plob of silicone in the middle of the solar panel and then placing a square of polythene/polyethylene plastic over the top and then squishing the silicone into a layer that covers the panel and surrounding bezel. Once it's had time to cure (usually just a day) then the polythene will just peel off leaving a solid film of silicone over the solar panel.
A test before and after showed that the silicone did not reduce the output from the solar panel.
One year later, including an unusually hot (too hot!) summer and a fairly grim winter, and the silicone looks as though it has handled the extremes of UV, heat and cold well.
One light did stop working though, and it's that one that is featured in this video.
There are many ways you can ruggedise standard solar garden lights against environmental extremes to make them last a very long time.
Here's a link to the original video showing the silicone coating:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmEyu-JAsnM
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czfa0S5uwcI
THIS COMPETITION IS NOW CLOSED. If you entered, then pl;ease check your YouTube inbox for a message to see if you won.
That's assuming you do have it enabled, as I can't contact you if you don't.
Because of the number of entries I am giving away four sets of screwdrivers and "extras".
It's competition time, and the prize is one of my favourite screwdrivers. All you have to do is choose the colour of the USB power supply that is going to explode and leave your choice in the comments section down below.
In the part-2 video a random power supply will detonate forcibly (blowing it's little coloured lid clean off) and I'll use a randomiser to pick one of the winners who chose the colour correctly, and no matter where they are in the world the screwdriver will be posted to them.
Multiple entries will be detected and disqualified.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and dubious (but brightly coloured) electronic gadgets (that may or may not go bang) at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1k6XNrM6OU
These seem to be a very common style of component on Aliexpress and sometimes on eBay too.
It's a spark ignitor for gas that could be used for cooker, ovens or other applications. Unlike oil igniters or larger scale gas units, it doesn't have a continuous hot spark, but just pulses low current sparks continuously until the gas/air ratio hits the sweet spot and ignition occurs.
The design is gloriously simple due to the use of a specialist component designed almost exclusively for generating high current pulses used to drive the transformer assembly.
The format of these varies. This one appears to have three separate high voltage secondaries, which raises the intriguing possibility of wiring them in series for a single higher voltage spark.
Other versions have a common ground connection and several outputs referenced to that.
If desired, the PCB could be removed for driving your own custom transformer or pulse coil. Or alternatively you could take inspiration from its design for your own PCB design. It's a classic circuit.
The very high value resistor is a discharge resistor designed to gently discharge the main capacitor to prevent a rogue unexpected spark due to retained charge, or possibly to avoid false triggering due to leakage current on the supply circuit causing the capacitor to gradually charge up until a spark occurs unexpectedly.
Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of YouTube's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams.
https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
#ElectronicsCreators
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXUiXYkP9_E
It seems like every famous brand is being slapped on what are a very standardised LED lamp these days. Here's the Kodak version.
The video also shows the classic "dooby" resistor hack to make the lamp last a LOT longer at a slightly reduced intensity. (Called Dooby after the Dubai long life lamps.)
Note that the circuitry in the lamp is at full mains voltage when powered, so should be removed from the lamp holder completely before working on it, and should not be handled while powered.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsOf3gDl15w
The last one of these exploded, so I had high hopes of excitement when I ordered several with the intention of doing an experiment to change the colour of the LEDs in different units and see which one attracted the most bugs. Rather annoyingly, these units have surface mount LEDs in them. This makes it a bit trickier to fit my intended straw hat LEDs.
But it gets even more interesting with a very different and much better designed PCB inside with what appear to be properly rated components.
Note that the grid in these units is easy for kids to touch and is referenced to the mains supply (wall power), so definitely not for use where a kid could reach it. Also note that the unit holds a charge for a very long time when unplugged, as it has no discharge resistor for the main X2 470nF cap charged to 660V.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and dangerous gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caIRL1ci22Y
This well-cremated consumer unit (home distribution board) was sent by Nick Bundy for our entertainment. You can see the video where he replaces it with a new one here:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_VHEBGMHEI
From 2016 all new consumer units in the UK tend to be metal cased ones to reduce the risk of incidents like this. This may have been influenced by a number of recalls related to Wylex circuit breakers with contact burning issues.
Under fault conditions a circuit breaker in the UK can potentially have to break a fault current of several thousand amps, so I've never really been comfortable with the value engineering that has been applied to them. £3 or less seems just too low for something so important to electrical safety.
It's possible that the root of this fault was either a faulty isolator or poor termination. There's a lot more to terminating a cable than just stuffing it into a hole and clamping it with a screw. With rigid cables like the tails shown, it's especially important that the rigidity of the cable doesn't result in a twisting force on the terminal, as it can potentially affect contact positioning.
It's also important to recheck that terminals haven't loosened when cables are moved.
It's interesting to note that both RCDs were in their tripped state, but while they isolated all wiring leading from the fire they couldn't isolate the cause itself.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buiJTq-w2fY
One of these socket testers is great and one has been over-engineered with lots of extra weaknesses as a result. In hindsight I'm wondering if the hot resistors (110C) were masking the transistor or if the transistor itself was getting that hot. If it is dissipating about quarter of a watt then it should be within its capability.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_3FCAbNyMM
This was going to be a video on the replacement of batteries in a Luminara candle... Right up to the point I discovered that the ones they supplied with it had leaked badly and corroded the contact plate.
I've done a followup video for Luminara candle owners to recommend they remove the original batteries as soon as possible.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Q1GqMqAkvI