McDonald's has teamed up with Sega to produce a variety of one-off handheld LCD games over the years starting around 2004. I came across a variety of these original 2004 releases and decided to see what's inside.
They're a pretty simple design with some elegant touches (the power switch surprised me). I'll have detailed interior shots up with the full written article on PCBurn (link below) and take a look at the game play of the Tails and Super Monkey games during the video.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oE-xQJxsj3c
I noticed my PLA filament was snapping in the PTFE tubes leading up to my Prusa i3 Mk3 multi-material extruder. So I've run a few quick tests on some straight PLA to find out what's happening. And I think I've got an answer.
PLA filament, when held straight in a bowden tube after printing gets brittle and breaks into little pieces or snaps in the middle. It has to do with the plastic wanting to stay wrapped in the same shape on the spool.
PCBurn Article: https://pcburn.com/why-does-my-pla-filament-keep-breaking/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvpSxHLotMI
I've been searching for a 3D printer to repair for a while. And I think I've found the perfect candidate. Tronxy's X6A.
It ticks all the boxes for what *should* be a good 3D printer. Auto bed sensor, filament out sensor, power off protection, rigid steel frame, dual z-axis lead screws, mosquito-esque extrusion end on a J-Head.
But the finished product just... well. If I'm honest, it isn't very good. But it was *spectacularly* cheap.
So in this video I'm introducing you to the 3D printer itself. In the very near future I'll be doing a series of videos, more broadly 3D printer applicable, on addressing the shortcomings of this printer to make it reach it's full potential.
And when it's printing perfectly (maybe that should be if) we'll tally up the spending and see if I just spent way too long hacking away at a pile of parts or got a steal on a sweet little piece of CNC hardware.
Evolving PrusaSlicer and Cura profiles for the Tronxy X6A: https://github.com/Inhibit/3D_Printer_Setup/tree/main/Tronxy_X6A
Chitu G-Code commands for the Tronyx printer board: http://www.customize-3d.com/chitu-g-code-explained.html
Thingiverse Bed Belt Tensioner re-design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4069011
Mandalorian Pose 3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4672484
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tifUz9gP6E8
Wiring a proper power supply for a 3D printer is important. Here's how to replace a power supply and properly connect wiring.
This should be pretty cross-applicable to any 3D printer. If your printer doesn't use an external switching supply it's likely using one of these internal industrial component supplies.
And the wiring on this unit was horrendous. I went ahead and crimped on terminal ends to all of the wires after stripping off solder (?).
That's one problem down. Next up is to clean off that horrible sticky-tape junk on the print bed and get a PEI spring-steel sheet installed.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkla34dd_Hk
I needed a 3D resin printer with a better interface than the Wanhao D7 I've been using. So I decided on the Sonic Mini.
Phrozen's Sonic Mini is a budget monochrome masking LCD 3D resin printer. And now that it's here I've gotten around to taking it out of the box and writing a review of it's features and my impressions.
The first print (as you'll see at the end of the video) didn't go well. That was down to the cure time being a bit too aggressive for the Siraya Tech Blu resin I'm attempting to use.
I'm covering design quality, printer setup, 3D resin safety, and a first print attempt.
In the future I'll probably be doing a teardown of the printer along with some convenience modifications such as chamber heating and (if necessary) modifying the base for UV resistance.
Also, there don't appear to be too many profiles for resins available. I'm aiming to remedy that in a print quality article and video to follow.
PCBurn Article: https://pcburn.com/phrozen-sonic-mini-review-should-i-buy-it/
3D Resin List of Settings for the Phrozen Sonic Mini: https://pcburn.com/phrozen-sonic-mini-3d-resin-settings/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6TG0UQE05k
My son startled the ceramic heater. Being a shy electrical device it fell and broke it's base plate. I'm designing a new part by hand, typing the dimensions up in OpenSCAD, slicing it in Slic3r, then kicking off a replacement on the Prusa i3 Mk3. Let's see if it actually works.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEW9TP6eW8w
LED light bulbs have shown up with faux filament strips on the inside. These are usually running at a high(ish) voltage, if not mains. So when I came across some 3v strips, handy to run in series for 12v, I purchased them in.
We're taking a look at brightness and (accidentally) what the correct voltage should be for the (presumably accurate) 100mA rating. Although baking the LED strip at a high current probably made it easier to take apart and get under the microscope.
If you've got an idea for them or want me to put these in something to see what they'll look let me know in the comments!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjwDmxmrc3M
Mini Arcade machines by My Arcade were popular in 2017. Since then they've become a budget buy on EBay having worn out their shiny new thing allure.
When I had the chance to pick up one for a teardown I decided to see if this would make a good Arduino project box, parts pull for other projects, or even a decent game in it's own right for the arcade lover.
Internally it has a LCD that might be re-usable, a circuit board with some interesting breakouts, and a few daughter boards which might suite your next project well.
And the arcade cabinet case of course. With the joystick pad of the cabinet being re-usable it should be possible to put a raspberry pi or other micro computer in there to re-use the cabinet as a general purpose mini arcade.
I've also written a companion article on PCBurn with additional internal pictures here: https://pcburn.com/data-east-karate-champ-my-arcade-teardown/
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z56s-7UhYNo
LED Light Circuits make a great starter electronics project. And they're fun to add to a 3D print, game system, or just about anything. Calculator/references at link below.
This video's specifically to answer which components I use for quick and easy LED light circuits since I was asked by another Reddit user. Since I hadn't put up a video on a simple electronics build recently this seemed like a good simple subject.
It's funny. But when you're using and looking at these parts in things constantly it never occurs to you that it'd be impossible to know if what you're looking at will work. The answer, I think, is that most electronics are roughly what they're labeled when you buy them.
Please excuse the audio on this one; there normally aren't as many people or machines running in my workshop.
PCBurn accompanying article: https://pcburn.com/quick-switched-led-light-circuit-using-just-4-components/
Twitter feed: https://twitter.com/pcburn
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liShjGUFmYE