In this video I replace 3 motors in three of the DeWalt drill/drivers used at work. The cost of replacing the motors is vastly less than a new drill and being that we get roughly 2 years out of a motor, it saves a bit of money. Plus it keeps trash out of the ground which is important to me. I hope you enjoy the second part. When I recorded this in January 2020 I was watching a lot of HandToolRescue so I did a little homage that turned into troubleshooting. I still watch HTR but I am pretty much caught up now. Here is where I bought them. Be sure to check the magnet shield before installing the motor. https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Motor/N075847/3659368 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLj8U_6jzBA

I picked up this Optoma HD180 on eBay while searching the "parts repairs" listings. It was listed as having no color in the picture. Usually that means an exploded color wheel. The price was decent($100 shipped with the remote) so I went ahead. Upon diving into it, the color wheel was definitely bad. A few years ago, I bought a few HD20 replacement color wheels which is the same wheel for the HD180. I had forgotten about them but after I recorded the video, I found the old invoices from buying them (2016? Remember 2016?). I paid about double what they go for now...At least it has a new color wheel and I got rid of some old stock. I do wish the seller had mentioned that they had it open because I found the keyboard cable had been damaged and the attempted "fix" only made it worse. Fortunately I had a cable from a scrap unit. The case was also partly damaged. It had the common dried/brittle plastic which is pretty annoying but well known. I fixed it up with CA glue and shrunk tubing. The projector lamp (BL-FP230D) was thoroughly used up. The amount of gunk in the arc tube was pretty severe. Being that this is going to be a projector that someone can buy on the cheap, I opted to use a 220W PVIP in place of the 230W PVIP currently installed. I go over the reasoning behind using a bulb rated 10W less, but essentially it appears that most bulbs have about a 50 watt range that they will operate in. Meaning 25W up from the stated rating and 25W down. The 220W lamp would run from 195W up to 245W. That means running at 230W would be perfectly fine. If this was a paid repair, I would replace the entire assembly. This projector is going to likely be for someone's outdoor movie theater or a secondary projector in the house. Using the bulb that I did will save them a bunch of money and keep the resale cost down. After I finished, I did test the projector for 2 hours. I had no picture issues and definitely no temperature issues. I will say, the picture looks as good as my HD20 that I run at home. I contemplated keeping it but I don't need to hoard any more projectors. I need to do the opposite :) It's currently listed on eBay(I'll remove this once it sells). If you are interested, click the link. I am open to offers, and shipping is free. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Optoma-HD180-DLP-Video-Projector-with-Remote/184774175130 If you need a good lamp with the PVIP 230 inside: https://www.purelandsupply.com/optoma-projector-lamp_hd180.html Use YT50 for 5% off your purchase(I got a coupon to offer everyone!) Thanks for watching! \o/ ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKDua31Z3D0

This projector came from an online seller with the problem of jittering picture and then shutting down. They were ready to upgrade to a newer model anyway. Unfortunately it was slightly damaged in shipping. Nothing functional was damaged but the corner was broken in a few places. The main issue was of course dust buildup on the color wheel sensor. I glued as much of the corner back as I could. In retrospect I want to look into other types of adhesives. CA glue is my go to for most things with that sort of plastic. Mainly I want to find a very thin UV set adhesive or similar type where you can clamp the parts and then cure them one you like the position. If you happen to need a lamp assembly for your projector, use YT50 for 5% off. https://www.purelandsupply.com/benq-lcd-projector-lamp_ht2150st.html edit: this sold before the video was edited. I hope the new owner enjoys it. It's a nice projector. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfYD8at_VyI

I was sent an Optoma GT1080 (short throw not HDR) with a heavily damaged final lens. Due to this being a short throw, the position of the scratch prevented the image from being acceptable. I first had to check the DMD because I have been fooled by bad DMDs in the past. After verifying the DMD, I went after the lend. I did try polishing it as even with the slight surface difference, the image would probably be fine if the optical path was clear again. Polishing did not work as well as I hoped. I may pursue that again in the future but I found a much better option. After shelving the unit for a week or two while searching for lens parts, I was digging through my junk shelves for something else, I found a Smart UF55 that seemed oddly familiar. Upon removing the optic assembly it was a dead ringer for the GT1080 lens assembly. I decided to try and entire lens assembly(rather than swapping just the lens) and it worked out great. So, in the future, if you need a lens for one of these, find a used UF55 by Smart. They were popular with schools so they should be cheap and plentiful . I have seen them for $40-60 with shipping. The cheapest I found a GT1080 lens was $165 plus shipping. If you happen to need a lamp for one of these. Use Code YT50 at checkout. https://www.purelandsupply.com/optoma-projector-lamp_gt1080.html Thanks for watching! 00:00 Intro 03:15 Look at lens issue 06:10 Disassembly begins 08:31 Screw Removal 21:06 DMD evaluation 30:00 Partial reassembly for DMD test 38:32 DMD Visual test -Verify it is Okay 40:27 Lens confirmed as main issue 40:42 Lens polishing results/Replacement Lens 49.40 Lens swap 58:28 New lens evaluation (looks good) 1:01:50 Final assembly 1:20:09 Final picture check 1:25:00 Closing remarks ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KN0XtrvQTOo