This is the first mix I've made in years. This mix is inspired and dedicated to the most amazing woman I've ever met, Ivette. I hope you enjoy this as much as I enjoyed making it for you.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7nkPTKLm2A
IMPORTANT: Cause for this failure was not bad calipers, but rather incorrectly installed pads. For information on this, check out this video. It will save your brake system.
https://youtu.be/sXGcgUezqlY
I found this out after this video, when sure enough, my brakes failed again from this simple mistake.
How to replace the front brake calipers, rotors, and pads, on your 2009-2014 Ford F150 4x4.
Remember to like, share, and subscribe if this helps.
Parts used:
Raybesros FRC12170N
Raybesros FRC12169N
Stoptech 928.65015
Brake fluid
Sylglide brake lube
Tools used:
Ratchet
13mm socket
14mm socket
21mm socket
3/8" wrench
Brake bleeder kit
Flathead screwdriver
Brake bleeding process:
https://www.dummies.com/home-garden/car-repair/brakes-bearings/how-to-bleed-your-brakes/
Brake bed in process:
https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Brakes/How-To-Bed-In-Your-Brakes
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMg8tGMCgLo
I have no idea what happened or why it died, but it started with it dropping offline on February 6th and dropped offline for the last time on February 10th. I bought it and installed it on January 17th. It worked fine until February 6th and started dropping offline more and more frequently as days went on. I was unable to do a factory reset on it. It would not reset when I went through the procedure. The only activity it had when connected is what is shown, which as it repeats, appears to be an error code. I got a NC021 and a NC022 error code on multiple devices when trying to add it back on the account to reconnect it. A new doorbell transformer was installed, 16VAC, 10A as recommended by Nest. Actual voltage was tested between 19-21VAC at the doorbell. After router resets, new transformer, and 2 calls to Nest Support they said there is a problem with my unit and are sending me a new one.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGmd6olShdk
Live stream of the Fortnite Chapter 3 Season 2 end of season event -- Watch live at https://www.twitch.tv/phathomthis
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxooSXtUu9k
Today we're going to modify our stock air box to increase air flow into it by at least 50%. This will also increase the amount of cold, dense air, and increase air velocity into your cold side piping.
This is applicable to 2011-2014 F150s with the 3.5L ecoboost engine.
The process is fairly simple.
UPDATE: I added a second one underneath this one. My intake temperatures now range from the same as ambient outside air to a maximum of 5°F above that.
Prior to this mod, I typically ran around 15-30° above outside air temperature.
Fun fact: Ford realized the flaw of having a fenderwell air inlet and rerouted the air inlet to between the grill and the hood in the 2015 F150s. This resulted in roughly a 25HP gain with just this change.
On to the mod:
1: Loosen the hose clamp from the intake tube to the air box
2: Undo the 3 airbox retaining clips and move the top of the airbox and filter out of the way
3: Remove the retaining screw for the rubber splash shield and move it out of the way
4: Fit the 1.25" pipe through the space between the radiator and frame supports against the air box to see where you need to drill
5: Drill a hole with your hole saw from the inside of the air box where you determined the pipe would go through.
6: Put the pipe in the hole and measure how much long it needs to be so it can clear the grill
7: Cut the pipe to the length you measured
8: Insert the pipe in the hole and use the RTV on the inside of the air box to create a seal
9: Reinstall the filter, top portion of the air box, and retaining clips.
10: Reattach the air intake hose to the air box and retighten the hose clamps
Parts list:
-2' of 1.25" PVC/ABS pipe
-RTV silicone
-Optional: A second section of pipe for 2 inlets
Tools list:
-1.75" hole saw
-Drill
-Utility knife
-Flathead Screwdriver
-Saw
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqkfnsyko5g