The new tankless water heater arrived, let's see what's in the box and also prepare for the install. I found that the supplied 3" PVC couplings were a little too large to fit inside the stainless steel openings on top of the heater. I tried sanding and filing them down to fit. In the end, I found a quick pass through the lathe shaving off about 0.016" of material did the trick. I selected this heater primarily because it's rated for use on 1/2" gas piping, which I have in the house. There's about 12 ft. of 1/2" gas pipe from the main line to the heater location and that would be hard to change out under the house. At a 6.6 GPM water flow rating and 120,000 BTU/hr. (or 120 CFH) gas flow, I should be good with that amount of 1/2" pipe. To help with that, I want to make the remainder of the pipe from the wall to the heater 3/4" black pipe and not use the smaller ID flexible hoses. Also checking out the optional service valves. These isolation valves allow for easy flushing of the heater internals with a vinegar descaling solution periodically. This ensures a longer service life. Takagi T-H3M-DV-N water heater: http://www.takagi.com/products/tankless-water-heaters/t-h3m-dv-n Service Valves: http://www.takagi.com/products/accessories/isolation-valves-pressure-relief-valve More to come: https://youtu.be/CgyIuOUoWSs Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 #takagi #tanklesshotwaterheaters #tankless ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4yZVi4FeBM

This is how I added a digital volt and current meter to my 1000w Tripp-Lite sine wave power inverter. This inverter only comes with a 4 segment LED display of battery voltage, reading 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% and nothing for current. So I added a small LED panel meter with a 200 amp shunt, to match the ~200 amp surge current rating on the inverter. While the meter can be powered off the same voltage source as it is measuring, it does not seem to be very accurate in that mode. I was able to remove the bolt in one end of the shunt and simply slide it over the stud on the negative terminal of the inverter. This saves of a length of cable to connect the shunt to the inverter. So, in order to get accurate voltage and current readings, I added a small 12vDC power supply, that is powered off the inverter AC output to automatically turn the meter on when the inverter is running and turn it off when the inverter is off. I'll be permanently mounting the meter in the swing-out front panel on my solar power shed once I get that built. I used a meter like this: - http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Meter-Digital-Shunt-200V/dp/B005HBBZEM There are many other options available as well. I found these wiring instructions helpful: 1. The Red and Black wires go to the positive and negative power supply that will be used to power this meter, It cannot be the same power that you are going to measure. You might find that an old dc adapter from a calculator or something like that will serve the purpose of supplying power to the meter very well, Just make sure it is between 6 and 24vdc 2. Connect the shunt to the Negative Lead in between the power source (Batteries) and the load (Inverter). The bolts on both ends of the the Shunt are intended to be used for these connections. 3. Connect the Yellow wire to the screw on the Source side of the shunt 4. Connect the White wire to the screw on the Load side of the shunt 5. Connect the Green wire to the positive wire coming from the load. Thanks for watching. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nxby_EQqsRE