Upshot: I salvage a few custom-build VFD's off of commercial grade treadmills, and figure out how to repurpose them for the shop.
These VFD boards are Digital Concepts ACD1U's, which were paired with DGE1U's upper displays, sometime circa 2004 on a number of different Star Trac brand treadmills. Using a DSO138 oscillocsope, I was able to cobble together a proof of concept for replacing that display with a simple Arduino - something much better suited for a shop environment.
GitHub files, etc. are forthcoming. If it's been more than a week since posting and you're looking for them, then bug me in the comments. I got a lot of stuff to do, and things sometimes slip my mind.
Upshot: I'll probably have some corrections on the corrections here later. lol
Topic index:
00:00 - Intro
01:37 - Table dimensions, 2 too small!
03:04 - Square wasn't square!
03:58 - Pulley eccentricity (from hacky boring them out)
04:52 - Carriage rollers need to be light
05:26 - Allen key access for the slots
06:00 - Super handy Harbor Freight ratchet driver
06:53 - Molex connector lifespan
07:54 - Testing the Wantai DQ542MA drivers with GRBL
09:09 - Wantai drivers don't do full-stepping
10:37 - Too much impedance to feed two drivers off a single set of BOB bins
13:10 - Jog testing when cloning and axis
Here's the full plasma build series:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3Q6TkuhhfQmQNm6TdvNkPuX
Help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfL-zgN_F24
Upshot: Road rash sucks, but this stuff makes it suck less.
Topic Index:
00:00 - intro
02:50 - supplies, what to use when
06:12 - cleaning up and shaving
08:37 - nonstick pads and self-amalgamating tape
09:00 - sterile vs clean
09:45 - Neosporin
10:27 - more self-amalgamating tape
11:42 - showering and working out is ok
12:22 - light road rash, applying Tegaderm
15:10 - roll vs patches
17:10 - results 2mo later, UV/sunlight, removing Tegaderm
21:05 - closing
Tegaderm is a hydrocolloid bandage by 3M that works wonders on road rash. It doesn't heal fast, but it does heal well, with minimal/no scarring, and without interfering with your ability to keep riding. I know it's also pretty popular in burn units and tattoo parlors - basically anywhere you've got large amounts of superficial skin damage. I'm a total klutz, so I'm a big fan.
You also want some non-stick pads, self-amalgamating tape, bacitracin/Neosporin, buzzers, tweezers, and something to protect the healing wound from UV/sunlight.
Get well soon, mate.
I don't have an OnlyFans, but I do have a PayPal if you want to donate the cause:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRtfpBOtY1M
Upshot: It's almost like running your pancake air compressor off 220 volt power.
Now, why would I take a perfectly good $100 air compressor and treat it like it's a $30 Harbor Freight air tank? Well, because I already had one of these and because it remains useful as a standalone compressor too.
There's possibly some way to run both your shop compressor and pancake compressor simultaneously too (to increase the overall amount of air flow you can get), but that depends on what the cut in and cut out pressures of your compressors are. For my applications, I don't need that anyway, since my shop compressor is large enough.
Here's a playlist for all my air compressor hacks:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3STOmBoEqXFtSRQTcg7iQAY
Help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYMU21chUEI
Upshot: I clean up shop.
Printable object files here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3277907 (Ridgid brand 1.875")
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3324089 (Ridgid brand 2.5")
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3324066 (Dustless brand 2.5")
The XS, S, M, L, XL files are variants with different levels of clearance (in 0.015" increments) for the tapers so you can get a snug fit. The mediums are what worked for me. Your printer/settings/filament combo may print differently, so if you want to do a test before committing to a long-ass print, there's some files that only include the tapers. Alternatively, if the taper comes out too tight, just bust out the sandpaper, and if it's too loose, you can apply thin coats of super glue and baking soda (acts as a hardening catalyst) as necessary to fill in the gap.
Source code here:
https://github.com/swolebro/caddyshack
Perma-link to the source code when this video was published:
https://github.com/swolebro/caddyshack/tree/938b72316602eeefaa4366efd87d541c0e716f01/scripts/shop
The baffle should be about 11.5" in diameter prior to cutting the slots - I mentioned needing to look that value up in the video. To be clear, that baffle is made of HARD-board (aka. Masonite, tempered board, HDF, etc.), not cardboard. Cardboard won't hold up so well. lol
One tip, if you want a larger collector but don't want to deal with the CAD to make the adapters fit your barrel/trashcan... Just use the 5 gallon bucket, and cut the bottom out. Then cut a hole of the same size in the lid of your trash can. Put one and two together. Problem solved.
Help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Evu_HuDse4M
Upshot: There's still a few components I haven't covered yet.
In this one we discuss a bit about the motors, the timing belts, the X and Y axis carriage rollers, the Z axis, shielded wires, Molex connectors, e-stops, and limit switches.
Topic index:
00:00 - Intro, Wantai steppers (I got dual-shafted)
04:32 - Z-axis mount overview
06:02 - Carriage rollers
08:06 - Timing belt
09:09 - Shielded cable
10:06 - Molex pins
10:47 - Drag chains
10:56 - E-stop
11:40 - Limit & home switches
Here's the rest of my LinuxCNC and plasma build videos:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3Q6TkuhhfQmQNm6TdvNkPuX
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OORYtfkEB5Q
Upshot: I'm doing my part.
As a psuedo-machining channel, it was only a matter of time before we went there. Kinda one of those unwritten rules! The Venn diagram overlap is just too great, and rightfully so. Further details on my Thingiverse and Odysee pages.
Topic index:
0:00 - Intro song & dance
1:25 - Other platforms
3:06 - Here's v3.0
4:15 - Upgrading to an Ender 3
6:05 - Part overview
15:15 - Related works, Solidworks vs FreeCAD, open sourcing, and other resources
For general FreeCAD lessons, this is the best I've come across, Joko Engineering:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC-CubOaooNwC-3RBKUoAOQQ
Donations help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzBHIX05UvQ
Upshot: A thorough look at the PCB for my Arduino based torch height controller, for my LinuxCNC plasma table build.
Topic index:
00:00 - Intro
02:54 - Tips on designing, building & KiCAD
06:52 - How a THC works, my Hypertherm, voltage dividers & adjusting for your plasma
12:30 - RC lowpass filter, Thevenin's theorem & picking a capacitor
21:05 - Other components (linear regulators, power supplies, and optocouplers)
30:12 - A couple notes on not breaking your stuff/electrocuting yourself
32:17 - Potential improvements, other quirks, stuff that didn't work, stuff you could change
44:24 - Digging into the wiring/schematic, LM317, PC817
66:33 - Looking at the PCB layout & finale
Here's a permalink where you'll find the schematics shown later in the video. Note that updated versions may be available if you check the latest version of the repository.
https://github.com/swolebro/swolebro-youtube/tree/cbd3e804a06677a460798404d5a60d336f19baf5/arduino-thc
The latest version of the repo, with extra LinuxCNC stuff and more:
https://github.com/swolebro/swolebro-youtube/
Here's the full plasma build series:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3Q6TkuhhfQmQNm6TdvNkPuX
Just Arduino stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3SHT1WvcGovHCzQ3Ag_kZeZ
Your donations help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
Other YouTube channels:
Contextual Electronics: https://www.youtube.com/user/contextualelectronic
CE's Getting to Blinky 5.0: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVhWh3AsXQs&list=PLy2022BX6EspFAKBCgRuEuzapuz_4aJCn
EEVblog: https://www.youtube.com/user/EEVblog
All About Electronics: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCBkOVp1Cqz4MR0LYR8vKpZg
Some wiki links (blame YouTube for automatically inserting the awful URL redirects)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_pass_filter
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_time_constant
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutoff_frequency
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9venin%27s_theorem
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_analysis_(electrical_circuits)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_regulator
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opto-isolator
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operational_amplifier
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operational_amplifier_applications#Voltage_follower_(unity_buffer_amplifier)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LM317
A RC lowpass filter calculator:
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/CRtool.php
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkKd5P8oH5Q
Upshot: In this video, I do gunsmithing ASMR.
Topic Index:
00:00 - overview of changes
04:47 - prints and corrections, chain drilling
07:51 - legal cya
08:44 - step 1+2, printing and support removal
09:24 - cleaning up pocket edge
09:30 - scribe guide
09:47 - drill reaming
09:52 - countersinking
10:02 - sanding and edge-feeling side plates
10:16 - close up on feeling edges of side plate
10:20 - starting next side plate
10:36 - sanding bushing
10:49 - cleaning up the insides of the hex holes
11:08 - step 3, tapping
11:26 - how it's going
14:50 - step 5, scribing center
15:17 - step 6, assembly
16:53 - step 7, scribe side line
17:15 - step 8, f'up, fix
19:30 - step 9, scribing the pocket
19:35 - step 10, sanity check
19:47 - step 11, installing pre-drill template
20:00 - step 12, spot drill sides
20:10 - step 13, spot drill top
20:22 - step 14, sanity check
20:31 - step 15, drilling
21:11 - step 16, more drilling
22:41 - step 18, install milling guide
23:14 - step 19, install mill
23:31 - mark with sharpie
23:34 - step 20, milling
24:57 - steps 21-22, nearly at depth
27:44 - step 23, final depth milling
28:05 - step 24, trigger slot milling
28:11 - change endmill in collet
28:46 - showoff
29:02 - step 25, sanity check
29:13 - step 26, check bits
30:08 - step 28, final drilling
32:41 - function test and closing
This will probably be the last update until I get around to building an AR-10. I think it's pretty good where it is, but if you disagree, take the CAD files and have at it.
Files will be uploaded to this Odysee channel shortly.
Questions or issues can be filed on this GitHub project:
https://github.com/swolebro/swolebro-youtube
Donations help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
Upshot: Talking through some decisions/difficulties with placing and squaring this thing.
Topic index:
00:00 - Intro, placement, ventilation, space restrictions
02:57 - Building & bolting the trusses, adjustments for the axes
06:45 - Squaring & shimming
If you have the same problem with grinding out slots, I now know the solution: carbide die grinder burrs. I had used stone grinders and Dremel-type cutters with my die grinder before, but it nowadays they make very affordable carbide burrs that will eat right through the nitride edge left by the plasma cutter. Highly recommend.
The funny angle measurements ended up being the square after all. A few days after posting this, I remembered you can check a square by scribing a line with it, flipping it, and scribing another (assuming the edge you butt the square up against is straight). The more the two lines diverge, the more out of whack your square is. Mine came in a hair under 90, which explains how each corner was wider than that.
The limitation of only being able to cut 3ft along the gantry/Y axis comes the width of the carriage rollers themselves, bringing in the X axes to align them, etc. It's safe to say that your cutting area will be about a foot less in each direction than your machine's footprint.
This is also my first time testing out software video stabilization in ffmpeg, so hopefully that cuts back the Blair Witch effect of just being one dude with a camera phone.
I did see one quirk where the video rotates suddenly, but overall looks like an improvement. I'll keep messing with the parameters, and at some point, will have to do a video about how I edit this stuff... on the command line. Do you even Linux, bro?
Here's the full plasma build series:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9xPdBFt5g3Q6TkuhhfQmQNm6TdvNkPuX
Help me make more cool shit:
http://paypal.me/swolebroshopworks
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdqsUEmg2kE