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22 Dec 2020 05:30:32 UTC
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Threading with a Modified Die Holder
I didn't get any video of the first use of the die holder before I added the larger diameter UHMW plastic "handle". It was very hard to keep the 30mm die holder from turning while threading and left my hand and forearm very tired and sore after a few threaded ends.
For the next use, I bored out a piece of 2" (50mm) diameter UHMW rod slightly smaller in diameter than the die holder, then pressed the die holder into the plastic rod. For a little extra grip, I used a 60* threading bit turned on it's side and used that to cut shallow grooves along the side of the UHMW using the carriage.
If you're looking to do something similar, try different diameter material and find what fits your hand best. I used plastic since we use literally tons of this stuff every year. Wood might also be a good choice. Maybe a chunk of tree branch, turned down to size and bored to fit over the die holder should do the trick.
The end result is very easy to grip in my hand. It's no effort at all to thread both ends on 6 or 8 of our weighted shift rods in one run. This setup produces very clean and straight threads and it's very fast.
eBay search for "lathe die holder", this listing was similar to what I purchased:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-Tailstock-Die-Holder-in-Straight-3-8-Parallel-Shank-Holds-1-OD-Dies/332624547100
More to come...
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And as always, thanks for watching
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImQ6A884rJM
For the next use, I bored out a piece of 2" (50mm) diameter UHMW rod slightly smaller in diameter than the die holder, then pressed the die holder into the plastic rod. For a little extra grip, I used a 60* threading bit turned on it's side and used that to cut shallow grooves along the side of the UHMW using the carriage.
If you're looking to do something similar, try different diameter material and find what fits your hand best. I used plastic since we use literally tons of this stuff every year. Wood might also be a good choice. Maybe a chunk of tree branch, turned down to size and bored to fit over the die holder should do the trick.
The end result is very easy to grip in my hand. It's no effort at all to thread both ends on 6 or 8 of our weighted shift rods in one run. This setup produces very clean and straight threads and it's very fast.
eBay search for "lathe die holder", this listing was similar to what I purchased:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lathe-Tailstock-Die-Holder-in-Straight-3-8-Parallel-Shank-Holds-1-OD-Dies/332624547100
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImQ6A884rJM
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BUILD
building-20p-battery-modules-part-5
Inserting the terminals, bus wires and the retaining screw to prepare a cell holder for the tabbed cells.
You can check out the original designer's build process below:
https://youtu.be/Bd6oFpexA4I
Since I am building my holders in a different manner, it takes some trial and error to work out all the details and the precise order to do each step in.
Using the square nut instead of the original wood screw should result in a much more reliable electrical connection. Also the flag terminals and bullet connectors make a really clean interconnection point for connecting modules in series.
Adding crimped disconnect terminals on each end of the holder insulates the exposed wire as well as provides 2 balance/charge terminals. This would allow say a BMS and a voltage monitor to be connected at the same time, or I can charge/discharge a given group of cells independently of the rest of the assembly.
Used #8-32 brass screw, washers and square nuts, 3/4" long screw may work, I used 1" long and cut off the excess. #6 x 5/8" wood screws for attaching the spacers, zinc plated steel would work better than the s/s screws I used.
More to come...
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Intro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
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CRAFT
craftsman-c3-battery-charging-part-3b
The other feature of my C3 battery adapter is to be able to measure power tool current, so lets see if that works.
On first pass, I confirm that these DC watt meters do not measure reverse current, that is current flowing from the load to the source. They permit that current to flow (through the internal shunt), but likely filter out negative shunt voltages and thuis display 0.00 amps.
So a quick set of Deans "gender changer" adapters solved the problem by allowing the Watt Meter to be connected the other way around, and success. Current and power flowing from the battery to the tool can now be measured easily.
While that in itself is interesting, this test also disproved my hypothesis that the "T1" and "T2" side terminals were somehow used by the power tool to read something about the battery pack, temperature perhaps? Apparently the power tool has no connection to those side terminals and works just fine off the "+" and "-" front/rear terminals. So the sole purpose of those side terminals must be for the charger and battery to "communicate" with.
The next step will be to perform some further experiments to try and determine how those side terminals are used by the charger. To do that, I'll attach some wires to the adapter and try connecting those to a battery pack and see how the charger reacts.
Stay tuned for the next installment. If anyone has had any experience with the C3 battery/charger connections, feel free to post up your experiences in the comments section below.
Top tip: If you are planning to purchase some of these small power connectors (Deans, XT60, etc.) buy a lot of them, 10-20 pair at a minimum. I used 4 pair just for this one test setup. 10 pair will get used up just like that!
As always, thanks for watching!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ESIEa5wGMk
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using-permethrin-to-treat-cycling-kit
Since I ride my monster cross bike up in the coastal mountains, I've been using Permethrin repellent to treat my cycling kit for the last 7-8 years. I usually need just one application in the spring, but for wetter years, I may need 2 applications, 6 weeks or so apart. I find this works well for me.
You apply the spray to your clothing and let it dry and air out for a few hours prior to use. It'll last through 6 washes and you should apply it no more than once every 42 days. I usually concentrate the spray around the openings in the clothing since the main idea is to keep ticks from crawling under your clothes where they can hide.
Sawyer Permethrin information:
https://sawyer.com/products/permethrin-insect-repellent-treatment/
While it'll repel flying insects like mosquitos and flies from the treated clothing areas, I find it does nothing for exposed skin areas. For that, I use a 40% DEET spray on my arms, legs and neck/head to keep those sorts of bugs at bay. Be sure and check carefully after a ride for ticks.
Amazon links for mentioned products:
Permethrin: https://amzn.to/2X78Xtn
Repel 40% DEET: https://amzn.to/2GgXP7t
SF Bay area tick information:
https://baynature.org/article/bay-area-has-ticks-and-lyme-disease/
Thumbnail courtesy UC Davis:
http://entomology.ucdavis.edu/Faculty/Robert_B_Kimsey/Kimsey_Research/California_Ticks/
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CRAFT
craftsman-c3-battery-charging-part-7d
After balance charging and discharging the recovered pack, I try charging on a bench power supply.
And it worked! This pack would not charge on the Imax-B6 unless it had a pull-up resistor installed, yet charges fine off the power post from a voltage and current limited bench power supply.
So I thought perhaps it was something in the Imax-B6 charger that was causing the problems. But in the next video, I'll show a pack that won't charge from the bench supply:
- http://youtu.be/PGujDlXAXtw
So I think the charging issues still come down to something inside the battery pack that is shutting it off. I may try charging with a Turnigy LiPo charger and I may also try adding balance leads to this recovered pack.
As always, thanks for watching.
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbOn3jYf1IA
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VIDEO
12V P
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Time to install a 12V accessory panel in my shop to provide power plugs and a volt meter for my battery bank.
This is a small panel with a 12V lighter socket, a digital voltmeter and a 2 output USB power port. These seem to be commonly sold for motorcycle or marine use and cost about US$17 or so.
I added to short pieces of aluminum angle to the ends to attach the panel under a shelf in my shop. I wired all 3 ports in parallel off my 12V solar battery bank.
In the next video, I'll test out the USB charger capability and efficiency, so stay tuned for that...
Similar item on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triple-3-1-Amp-USB-Charger-Voltmeter-12-V-Socket-Panel-Marine-Outlet-Jack-/361347261432?hash=item5421f9a3f8:g:ZA4AAOSwyQtVsF-C&vxp=mtr
Soundtrack:
Solar Flares by Silent Partner
https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary/music
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp7nS7pfX8w
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media-room-floor-prep-part-6-results-of
Wrapping up this large scale mastic removal test.
I was able to strip about 30 sq.ft. of mastic with the remover and then scraping that onto another area, I got another 6 sq.ft. of mastic removed. The residue was mixed with cat litter and allowed to harden up overnight for subsequent removal and disposal.
Floor came out fairly clean, still have a few areas to go back and touch up. But I'll wait until the whole floor is stripped to plan out what areas to focus on.
With filming the process, this was about as large an area as I could manage by myself. You need to keep everything wet all the time. With the rather warm night and low humidity, I found one end starting to dry before I could get to the other end.
Key things to focus on are managing the mastic remover and your degreaser/detergent products. This stuff is fairly expensive (~$50/gal) so you don't want to be using it carelessly. Try to reuse the mastic remover at least once and you'll get perhaps 20% more stripping done. And keep a separate detergent and rinse bucket and make sure to keep the detergent bucket as clean as possible. I made the mistake in my first test of rinsing the mop in the detergent bucket. It loaded up so fast and the water was too dirty to be of any use for cleaning. I think I went through about 40 gals. of rinse water (4 large buckets full) in this cleaning. I think I'll get about 80 sq.ft. of cleaning with a gal. of the remover, about 1/3 the coverage they list on the jug. You also can't really assess the floor until it dries overnight.
To be continued. In the next video, a brief look at the concrete repair and also some more cracks to patch:
https://youtu.be/eta4MShE6r4
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And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
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VIDEO
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Used the GPS and Rdex app to find one cache, then set up the GeoCaching app for off-line data to find another one.
Of course, if you are using the GeoCaching app with a data connection, you don't have to do any of this off-line setup. But, I prefer to go GeoCaching while out in the back country where there's no data connection, thus this series of videos. This would apply to back country hiking, bicycling, off-roading, etc.
I tried two different approaches in this video. First was using the bike GPS or the GPS in the mobile device along with the Rdex app for the GeoCache descriptions and hints. This can be done without a premium GeoCaching membership.
The second approach was to make use of the off-line data capability in the GeoCaching app which uses a saved bookmark list along with the open source Trail Maps to give descriptions, hints and detailed mapping. This approach does utilize premium features of the GeoCaching app, so if you aren't a premium member, this won't work.
As far as ease of use, the off-line capabilities in the GeoCaching app are quite nice. Make a list (you can have multiple lists), download the off-line data for that list and you can use the Trail Maps for GeoCaching. If you prefer the Google maps, you'll need to set up those for off-line use separately.
You can also set up the off-line Google Maps if you want to make use of those inside the GeoCaching app or stand-alone . Note that in the non-premium GeoCaching app, you won't see any saved GeoCahces if you have no data connection. But you could save that information in Google Maps if you wanted to. Same with the saved descriptions in Rdex.
Setting up off-line Google maps:
https://support.google.com/maps/answer/6291838
GeoCaching web site:
https://www.geocaching.com/
GeoCaching starter kit:
http://bit.ly/2OuY57N
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#DiscoverTheForest
#geocaching
#cache
#geo
#geocache
#gps
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-3UgObMgNw
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lithium-ion-battery-testing-part-4
This video segment shows a cell that appears to be taking a charge, but it levels off in voltage then starts to fall.
Not sure what the internal explanation is for this condition, but it seems to show up in about half the cells I tested. The voltage will rise for up to 5 minutes, then level off at 1.5 volts or so then start falling, all while taking 100mA of current.
My guess is there is a partial internal short and as the voltage rises, so does the internal discharge current. At some point, the discharge current exceeds the charging current and the voltage stops rising.
If anyone has an explanation of this sort of cell condition, feel free to post that in the comments section below. But whatever the explanation, this cell is no good and no need to test it any farther.
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRGw0iPkwWg
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LEVI�
levi-s-stadium-trash-part-2
Can you say Extreme Fire Danger?
Where are the trash and ash cans here at the northern entrance gate that stadium patrons use to enter the stadium?
This video was shot the day after an event and after the city public works director proclaimed the trail had been cleaned to his satisfaction! Wow, I wish I had him for a boss, performance evaluations would be a breeze with him. Granted, the asphalt surface is indeed free of trash, but there are cigarette butts touching the pavement. Apparently if the trash is not on the pavement, it's not the stadium's responsibility to clean it up! That is complete BS in my book.
"Stadium operations" = patrons coming to and leaving the stadium and any litter they leave as a result of that should be the responsibility of the stadium. Either they provide adequate litter receptacles and enforce littering regulations with their patrons, or they go in and clean up every single piece of litter left as a result of "stadium operations".
http://www.njclean.org/2004-New-Jersey-Litter-Report.pdf
See pg. 2: "Paid litter pickup programs cost $1.29 to remove one item of litter."
Keep America Beautiful information:
- http://www.kab.org/site/PageServer?pagename=litterfactsheets
"Litter has costly environmental consequences.
• The environmental outcomes of litter can have economic impacts. This includes lost tourism revenues, expenses for
repairing vehicles, boats and ships, restoration of ecosystems, wildlife injury, and eventually the cost to human health.
• Debris may be carried by storm drains into local waterways, with potential for serious environmental contamination.
Wind and weather, traffic, and animals all move litter into gutters, lawns and landscaped areas, alleyways, and parking
structures."
Here's some additional photos of the trash:
https://goo.gl/photos/poFWMMtVXGKdpY1y7
The stadium Environmental Impact Report (EIR):
http://santaclaraca.gov/about/levi-s-stadium/49ers-stadium-deir
From the EIR:
"If trash is increased after an event, predetermined mitigation measures should be implemented."
What are these mitigation measures???
Contact the stadium operating company if you find this disgusting:
http://www.levisstadium.com/contact-us/
Previous video:
https://youtu.be/r4Pw4I24xro
And in the next video, which is cleaner, Levi's Stadium or a landfill?
https://youtu.be/lRg78ilmG4s
Fire Danger Sign image: http://www.scoutsociety.org/
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa6aIzz0Ui0
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