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Black & Decker Battery Project, - Lithium Conversion Part 7
Time to see if we can balance charge the battery inside the case and with the charging connector we built in the last episode.
For basic charging, all that is needed is to plug in the Deans T connector to the iMAX-B6 charging output cable and slide the charging connector onto the battery. For balance charging, also connect the 5S balance cable from the iMAX-B6 to the 5S connector on the side of the battery pack.
Then select the battery type and charging technique on the charger menu and it is good to go. I selected 1 amp charge rate as that is about 1/2C and should charge a dead battery in about 2 hours. There is a tradeoff time between charging current and battery lifetime. Also, I may try adjusting the high voltage cutoff point a little lower as there is also a tradeoff of voltage vs. lifetime (higher voltage = shorter life) but higher voltage is also higher capacity.
So for example, using the LiIo cell type for 4.1V/cell instead of LiPo at 4.2V/cell. This would reduce the open circuit pack voltage to 20.5V instead of 21.0V or set up a custom cutoff voltage like 4.0v/cell or 3.8v/cell. Or just use the Fast Charge mode and that way the battery won't be as fully charged and will drop off quicker. Having a smart charger gives you a lot of flexibility here that you don't have with the factory charger.
The original NiCad chargers took something like 14 hours to charge the NiCad pack and that while using 7 watts of AC power or about 0.1KHW/battery charge. Seeing as I was charging a battery/day in the fall/winter, that can add up. Recall that I am powering the iMAX-B6 charger off my solar battery bank, so all the battery charging will be done on solar power.
The LiPo battery pack is rated at up to 2C charge rate, so I could go up to 3.6 amps. The charger also has a fast charge mode where it just does the constant current (CC) phase and then stops before the constant voltage (CV) phase. This gives about 80-90% capacity and about half the charging time.
We'll watch the charger readout over the CC and CV stages to see the time and mAH readings. I had used this battery for a while and judging by the cell voltage, it was at 60% state of charge (SOC):
- http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?167673-Question-re-Li-ion-Capacity-vs-Voltage
It took just under 800mAH to recharge fully, so that represents 40% of the capacity so 800/0.40 = 2000mAH capacity and that is in line with the LiPo pack's 1800mAH rating.
Interesting to note the battery voltage "creep" among the various manufacturers. Black and Decker with 18V NiCad, then Craftsman with 19.2V NiCad then Lithium-Ion. Then both Craftsman and Black and Decker come out with 20V Lithium batteries in different form factors. Inside: all the same. 15-series NiCad cells or 5-series
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ROwtZypiDE
For basic charging, all that is needed is to plug in the Deans T connector to the iMAX-B6 charging output cable and slide the charging connector onto the battery. For balance charging, also connect the 5S balance cable from the iMAX-B6 to the 5S connector on the side of the battery pack.
Then select the battery type and charging technique on the charger menu and it is good to go. I selected 1 amp charge rate as that is about 1/2C and should charge a dead battery in about 2 hours. There is a tradeoff time between charging current and battery lifetime. Also, I may try adjusting the high voltage cutoff point a little lower as there is also a tradeoff of voltage vs. lifetime (higher voltage = shorter life) but higher voltage is also higher capacity.
So for example, using the LiIo cell type for 4.1V/cell instead of LiPo at 4.2V/cell. This would reduce the open circuit pack voltage to 20.5V instead of 21.0V or set up a custom cutoff voltage like 4.0v/cell or 3.8v/cell. Or just use the Fast Charge mode and that way the battery won't be as fully charged and will drop off quicker. Having a smart charger gives you a lot of flexibility here that you don't have with the factory charger.
The original NiCad chargers took something like 14 hours to charge the NiCad pack and that while using 7 watts of AC power or about 0.1KHW/battery charge. Seeing as I was charging a battery/day in the fall/winter, that can add up. Recall that I am powering the iMAX-B6 charger off my solar battery bank, so all the battery charging will be done on solar power.
The LiPo battery pack is rated at up to 2C charge rate, so I could go up to 3.6 amps. The charger also has a fast charge mode where it just does the constant current (CC) phase and then stops before the constant voltage (CV) phase. This gives about 80-90% capacity and about half the charging time.
We'll watch the charger readout over the CC and CV stages to see the time and mAH readings. I had used this battery for a while and judging by the cell voltage, it was at 60% state of charge (SOC):
- http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?167673-Question-re-Li-ion-Capacity-vs-Voltage
It took just under 800mAH to recharge fully, so that represents 40% of the capacity so 800/0.40 = 2000mAH capacity and that is in line with the LiPo pack's 1800mAH rating.
Interesting to note the battery voltage "creep" among the various manufacturers. Black and Decker with 18V NiCad, then Craftsman with 19.2V NiCad then Lithium-Ion. Then both Craftsman and Black and Decker come out with 20V Lithium batteries in different form factors. Inside: all the same. 15-series NiCad cells or 5-series
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ROwtZypiDE
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media-room-floor-prep-part-12-concrete
Now that the concrete has cured, time to blend it into the concrete floor.
These small carbide grout rasps on the multi-tool make an ideal tool for blending the new concrete patch into the existing floor:
https://youtu.be/L-YrfD-leUY
https://youtu.be/KIHwTgVjEsw
The multi-tool and grout rasp don't throw up any dust which makes clean-up very easy. The also allow sanding right up to the aluminum door frame without damaging it. I've used masonry grinding wheels in an angle grinder before and you generate huge clouds of dust which would require sealing off the room to keep dust out of the rest of the house.
Also used a Bahco 625 carbide scraper to get into the spots where the mastic remover missed:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000288LOW
To be continued...
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SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Okzh1ARJPiI
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quest-for-negative-power-readings-on-the
A month long quest to get negative power readings on the Aeotec Home Energy Meter, Gen5.
Timeline:
0:00 Introduction
0:58 Gen 1 meter
1:42 Gen 2 meter
2:04 Current Transformer Installation
4:10 Gen 5 meter Installation
5:35 Energy Detection Mode Settings
9:41 Add Configuration Settings Screen
11:00 Negative Power Reading!
In the default mode (0), I found the gen5 meter read the same absolute value power as the gen2 meter. Somehow, I must have messed up trying to change to mode 1 the first time around and then tried mode 2. In mode 2, I found "negative" power was read as 0.000W, which is consistent with the "report only positive part" of energy.
Short answer is to set Device parameter 2 to 1:
For parameters of 101 - 103, power, energy detection mode configuration:
0 = Report power, energy absolute value; (default value)
1 = Report positive/negative power, report the algebraic sum energy
2 = Report positive/negative power, only report energy positive part (consuming electricity)
3 = Report positive/negative power, only report energy negative part (generating electricity)
I suspect mode 2 and 3 only report positive and negative parts, respectively, of the power as well as energy.
It took a few tries to get the change from mode 2 to 1 to take effect. I think this is where I messed up the first time, not giving the system enough time to make the change.
This is a real game changer for the diversion load project. Instead of blindly guessing at the power reading, it's now possible to read the exact value and direction. This helps to make the diversion load ramp up and down much faster as well as more closely tracking small changes in demand and generation.
Ezlo forum thread:
https://community.ezlo.com/t/aeotec-hem-gen-5-positive-negative-power-reporting/217710
Aeotec Home Energy Meter:
https://aeotec.com/z-wave-home-energy-measure/
Hardware:
In-wall dimmer: https://amzn.to/3qughPz
Ceramic heat lamp https://amzn.to/3jpdcP8
HEM Gen5 https://amzn.to/3iEgf4i
More to come, making use of this negative power information...
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Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TTQTxHzOjQ
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solar-shed-project-part-1-prepping-the
Prepping the old steel Harbor Freight solar panel frames to install on the shed roof.
I picked up these solar panels in the Harbor Freight Greenhouse cooling fan kit I purchased back in the early 2000's. There was a pair of 15W amorphous panels (20Voc, 0.75A Isc) and a steel frame. The newer HF panels come with a flimsy plastic pipe frame.
I gave the brackets a coat of paint and then added a cross brace to the bottom to make the bracket free standing. Originally the bracket was meant to be screwed down onto a structure. I didn't want to be drilling holes in the plastic shed roof. So instead I designed and printed some plastic feet to screw onto bolts passing through the brackets and cross bracing.
Then the feet can be adhered to the shed roof to hold it down. A steel strap was made to provide lateral support for the panel bracket. The panels are angled at 45* to the shed roof to give a mostly southern exposure.
To be continued, mounting the panels:
https://youtu.be/l0R0Hl4oS4Y
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SOUNDTRACK:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU-OePmWWHs
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breville-sage-870xl-barista-express
Let's take a look at how the water flows through this machine in the various operating modes.
Timeline if you want to skip to a topic:
02:40 Excess Water/Steam Flow
04:35 Hot Water/Steam Flow
07:48 Espresso Flow
09:20 Solenoid Failure Explanation
11:05 Upcoming Projects/Videos
a.k.a. Sage Barista Express
After replacing the solenoid valve assembly a few months ago, it looks like the pump and/or safety valve is going. Initially after the valve replacement, machine operated fairly normal, but over time, the brewing pressure started falling. Besides that, it would get into a mode where the pressure would rise and fall cyclically and you could hear the sound of the pump getting louder and softer. Finally it got to the point hardly any pressure registered on the gauge during brewing. Yet, hot water would flow out the group head with no filter installed.
I had a replacement pump on order from ereplacementparts.com, but it stayed on back order, so I cancelled that and searched around and found a pump and valve on Amazon:
ULKA Pump Model EFP5 ~120v 60hz 2/1 minutes, 52W, for Breville Espresso
https://amzn.to/32TNB5E
Safety Valve For Various Breville Espresso Machines
https://amzn.to/3336naU
For a 240V pump, you'll need to get the p/n off your old pump and search for the Ulka p/n on-line. If anyone has that p/n or a source for the pump, post up in the comment section.
With an understanding of the water flow, the solenoid valve failure mechanism now makes sense. The upper port on the 3/2 valve runs to the hot water valve and it's standby/dump port. If that port isn't closed off fully, it provides a low resistance path to the drain for the water as compared to the high pressure/resistance path through the packed coffee in the filter basket. That's why you hear the solenoid buzzing and the pressure gauge read very low.
Google photo album with photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bN1ugnLPYwvyDcr59
More to come, pump replacement...
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#breville #bes870 #bes860 $espresso #barista #breville #sage
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dc-power-meter-re-wire
DC power meter was wired incorrectly and that caused some issues with the accuracy of the reading. I think I mixed up the shunt wires do to having to flip the meter and case over to wire it and thus swapping the load and source sides.
Initially I just swapped the 2 pickup wires on the shunt in order to have a "positive" current flow and that seemed to make the meter read amps and watts. However, the readings seemed to be inaccurate and that came down to having the meter "-" terminal connected to the load side of the shunt, I think that few mV difference between the source side of the shunt and the meter "-" caused the reading errors. Along the way, I must have also worked one of the wires loose in the meter connector block.
As far as meter accuracy, I think it's reasonable. It reads a bit higher than my clamp meter but a bit lower than the mV reading across the shunt with a 4-1/2 digit multi-meter. The voltage at the meter also seems to read a bit low, but I think overall, the watt and KWH readings are likely OK. Since I can't calibrate the meter, it is what it is.
Using a PZEM-051 DC power meter:
https://amzn.to/3VBFvJZ
Meter enclosure:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830137
Link to the thumbnail image with a description below:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rX1zeyZc76sc7RvHA
Image credit: https://www.rcscomponents.kiev.ua/datasheets/pzem-051-datasheet.pdf
This project has taken over a year to complete, so videos have been shot at various times over that period.
More to come...
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toyota-4wd-ifs-idler-arm-upgrade-part-1
Rebuilding a Toyota 4WD/IFS idler arm with bronze bushings.
On the Toyota 4WD pickups/4Runners/Hilux/Hilux Surf models with independent front suspension (IFS), the steering idler arm is one of the most common parts to fail in off road use. It takes the brunt of the steering force and with the front tires pulling in 4WD mode, those forces can be high enough to bend or break that arm. Having plastic bushings inside allows for more flexing of the shaft as does having a smaller dia. shaft. So replacing the idler arm with the largest available shaft dia. as well as high strength aluminum-bronze alloy bushings will give the idler arm the best chance to survive the demands of off road driving.
We originally selected the McQuay-Norris FA5040 idler arm for this upgrade as it featured the larger 20mm dia. shaft and had sufficiently high quality machined finishes to handle the high precision bronze bushings. Later, this model changed to use a smaller dia. shaft and poor finish.
Then the ProForged idler arm came along that had similar dimensions. We adapted out bronze bushings to fit the "L" model with it's slightly smaller bushing ID as well as the "zerk" model which uses a slightly thinner flange thickness.
These seem to be the strongest commercially available idler arms and coupled with the bronze bushings, that gives as strong a setup as possible. There are custom fabricated idler arm replacements that cost 3-4 times the price of this off the shelf setup.
Web page with more information:
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/IdlerArm.shtml
On-line round "beam" stress calculator:
https://www.easycalculation.com/engineering/mechanical/deflection-solid-round-beams.php
More to come...
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And as always, thanks for watching
Intro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybzDLPR2HsI
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motion-activated-led-step-light-part-4
Let's take a look at the warm white copper wire LED string and talk about battery life in this device.
I've had this version of the light up in place for about 4 months now (Jun. 2016), batteries are still going strong and it's been working great.
I'm holding off installing the LEDs permanently until I finish stripping/sealing the floor, then cleaning/painting the baseboards and wall in the media room.
Let's look at estimated power consumption and run time:
Standby:
PM-8 50uA = 8.4mAH/wk
Running (10ft/3M warm white LEDs on 4.8V):
150 ohm, 2.29V drop = 15.3 mA to LEDs
That's only 0.5mA per LED!
15.3mAH/hr. of on time (120 triggers)
Estimate 24 triggers/day,
6 hrs. dark x 4 per hr.
24/120 = 0.2 hrs/day
0.2 hrs/day x 15.3 = 3mAH/day
About 3mAH/day or 21mAH/wk
Total:
30mAH/wk, battery capacity 1900mAH = 63 wks!
Have been running this light for ~4 months now,
It's still going strong.
4 x AA 6V Battery Holder Connector Storage Case Box ON/OFF Switch With Lead Wire
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-x-AA-6V-Battery-Holder-Connector-Storage-Case-Box-with-ON-OFF-Switch-Lead-Wire-/301802888859
40 pcs Double-side Protoboard Circuit Prototype DIY PCB Board 2x8 3x7 4x6 5x7cm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-pcs-Double-side-Protoboard-Circuit-Prototype-DIY-PCB-Board-2x8-3x7-4x6-5x7cm-/231504361527
3M/30 LED Copper WIre LED string:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-30-40-LED-Copper-Wire-Battery-Operated-String-Fairy-Lights-Lamp-Wedding-Party-/331720059486
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGjXaXeoG2Q
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solar-home-heating-2018-19-season-update
The current system has gone through it's 9th heating season and is still working well. Outside of about 30 days operating the main air mover on grid power, the system was run on solar power.
There were a total of 10 days this season where a 60F/15C inside temperature wasn't attained. On none of those days was there a wood fire ban in place, so I could have started a fire in the fireplace but opted not to.
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Intro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aqf1Y3l1aek
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breville-870xl-solenoid-indicator-lights
Hooking up a pair of indicator lights to monitor the operation of the two solenoid valves and a first test of the new water pump/valve.
Used some terminal splitters off the solenoid terminals to allow attaching the power and indicator light wires to. Lights fit in between the ribbing on the top cover. There's no polarity on the lights or the solenoids, just hook the light wires to the terminals on the solenoid below it.
Interesting that the LEDs glow faintly with the machine turned off (still plugged in). So be sure to unplug the machine prior to removing the top/back panels as there is live power inside at all times.
Looks like the new pump and valve are functional. Also, the indicator lights confirm my understanding of the operation of the solenoid valves. Sure, I could have learned this with a volt meter probing around inside the machine, but I like the blinking lights atop the machine!
120V/8mm indicator lights:
Affiliate link: https://amzn.to/2VxmDOU
ULKA Pump Model EFP5 ~120v 60hz 2/1 minutes, 52W, for Breville Espresso
Affiliate link: https://amzn.to/32TNB5E
Safety Valve For Various Breville Espresso Machines
Affiliate link: https://amzn.to/3336naU
More to come, checking for leaks and fixing them...
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#breville #bes870 #bes860
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