I think this multi-power source automatic chicken coop door is a well built product but it might have a few short comings depending on how your chicken coop and door is set up already. If you plan to use the solar feature and your chicken coop door faces to the outside toward direct sunlight, this will work out of the box in most instances without any modifications. If your chicken coop door faces into a covered run or away from direct sunlight and you plan to use the solar feature, like mine, you will need to extend the cable between the solar panel and your battery in order to locate the solar panel further away from the battery box where it will face the sun - it uses a standard cable used for security cameras, exercise equipment, some home and automotive audio, etc so you may already have one or at least have the ends and you can simply diy a new cable or you can just buy one from amazon like I did. I always plan for the future and I noticed someone complained in the comments that the battery doesn't have an overcharge circuit. I can confirm that it does via my own testing but I had intended to buy a different battery anyways because where my coop is located at doesn't get a lot of sun during late fall through early spring so having a higher capacity lithium battery made for solar panels with an overcharge circuit was already on my list of things to get. Also, it doesn't come with the remote batteries and although I doubt I would ever use the remotes, I still ordered them anyways. A note about the extension cables because I list 2 different ones below: if you are only running the cable 20 feet or less, the 2x10 foot cable is fine. If you have to run the cable a longer distance, you should use the heavier gauge cable in whatever length you need. There is a thing called voltage drop that happens with all power cables including extension cords in your home. A heavier gauge wire reduces this voltage drop and allows you to have longer wire runs. That is also why general purpose extension cords are usually 14-16 gauge wire whereas heavier duty or commercial extension cords are usually 10-12 gauge or larger. The smaller the number is for the gauge of wire, the thicker or heavier the wire is. Most security cameras are low voltage and low amperage so they can use 16-22 gauge wire for really long runs but a solar panel even though it is low amperage and low voltage you want to save as much of that power generated from voltage drop so you want to use a heavier gauge wire. An alternative to buying pre-made wire is to buy heavy duty ends and then make the wire in whatever gauge and length you need using wire from a hardware store or home repair store like lowes or home depot. See, I teach you new stuff every day. automatic coop door: https://amzn.to/3KHe2nU or https://amzn.to/3MuW3m0 larger capacity battery: https://amzn.to/40Pu6JK 2x10 foot 5521 extension cables: https://amzn.to/3MoZt9B single 10 foot extension heavier gauge wire: https://amzn.to/3GqQzoc remote batteries: https://amzn.to/43jCjHW From amazon production description: SOLAR CHICKEN COOP DOOR This SOLAR POWERED CHICKEN COOP DOOR comes with solar panel, power cord and emergency battery box. Providing multi options for power supply. 10W solar panel eliminates the problem of difficult access to electricity near the chicken coop. Emergency battery box effectively solves the problem of power failure. LIGHT SENSOR AND TIMER FUNCTION This auto chicken coop door has four ways to open and close. In light sensing mode, it will automatically open with daybreak and close with sunset. In timer mode, it will automatically open and close at the time you set. You also can use the remote control or manually open and close the door OVERCHARGE PROTECTION Our storage battery adds overcharge protection, no need to unplug the solar panel after fully charging. No more worry about the charging issue. NOTE: It usually needs one and a half daytime to get fully charged and can be used for one week around. WORK IN EXTREME WEATHER This auto chicken coop door adopts waterproof control box, full aluminum door, 3A adapter and high quality motor adding antifreeze, which makes it can work stable even in extreme weather and withstand temperature from -4℉ to 122℉. Meanwhile, we also provide a rain shield for better protecting the product. EASY TO INSTALL AND USE Plug and play design, no complicated wiring or cabling, just install the chicken coop door and plug the electricity then it can start to work. Automatically opening and closing the door, no worry about getting up early in cold weather to let the chickens out or rush home to lock your chickens when you’re having fun, saving your time and energy. THREE YEAR WARRANTY We will provide you with 24-hour online service, 90-day return or exchange service and 3 years warranty. Your satisfaction is our aim. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgjToyF2CHY

Almost every homestead starts with a garden and chickens! In the past whenever i was raising baby chickens as egg layers or meat chickens, i never really recorded the steps because it was usually during a time before i was uploading a lot of YouTube content about homesteading and then I got cancer and had to let most of my animals go. But now I am on my way to recovering from cancer and cancer treatment and getting back into the swing of things around the homestead. That means, baby chicks are arriving. I have a lot of tips and tricks on raising chickens for the eggs or the meat. I have a very efficient way to do both using dual purpose birds. So here we are with 1 day old baby chickens from MT Healthy Hatcheries in Cincinnati Ohio. These chickens are Rhode Island Reds, my favorite for huge eggs often double and triple yolks, they lay a high volume of eggs, and they also make an excellent dual purpose meat and egg chicken breed. Overall, these are excellent quality when received from Mt Healthy Hatcheries. I never mentioned why you would buy from a hatchery and not some local store like rural king or feed mills or tractor supply. When you buy from there, its really hit or miss if you get what you want. As an example, lets say you want 10 hens and a rooster. A lot of the employees at these types of stores really don't know how to sex baby chickens. You might end up with 10 rooster and 1 hen or any combination of them or all rooster or all hens. If you really want to be sure what you are getting, buy from a hatchery. I also forgot to mention in the video that you need to move the heat lamp out of the cage once they start flying ... which can be anywhere from day 4 onward but usually its closer to 2 weeks give or take. If you don't remove the heat lamp, they can get caught in the heat lamp protective screen. If you can't move the heat lamp out of their nesting area, cover the heat lamp bulb protector with metal window screen and using some sort of metal wire to tie it into place. In this video i show the preparation of baby chicks arriving and what i need to do before they get here. Then i show unpacking the baby chicks, doing a chicken head count, setting up their food and waterer, and things to look for in their first few days of life. The success or not of your first chickens depends entirely on the quality of chicken stock you buy and your care. When they make it through their first 24 hours alive, you are doing great. Other things to watch out for: eyes not crusted or puss looking, not coughing or sneezing, poop looks consistent chicken to chicken, their butts are not crusted over, they are eating and drinking and sleeping, they are active ... moving in and out of the heat lamp to regulate their temperatures, not drowsy or droopy for long periods of time. If it is available, and you did not get your chickens vaccinated for coccidiosis (which is a parasite fatal to chickens) or you do not know if your chicks were vaccinated for coccidiosis make sure you feed your chickens medicated chick starter. The medication used in chic starter is called amprolium and its simply a thiamin blocker. Coccidiosis needs thiamin in the intestines in order to multiply. Coccidiosis is found almost everywhere and is an intestinal parasite. That means chicks or chickens that get coccidiosis will have poo that contains coccidiosis which the other chics will then eat and also get coccidiosis and by the time you realize something is wrong (red or orange tint in feces, bloody feces, not eating well, and not as active) it will be too late and you will likely lose all of your chics. The amount of medication in the feed is not strong enough to treat an existing outbreak of coccidiosis. Just don't risk it and use medicated chic feed. So if you didn't use medicated feed and your chickens get coccidiosis, you need to act fast and get either a prescription of amprolium or you can sometimes find it over the counter. You add it to their water for 7 days. Treat the entire flock and also totally clean all of their feed and waterers along with the coop removing any poo. If the chicken is too sick to drink, you need to force amprolium down its beak. My Healthy Hatcheries has chicks available for pick up or to be shipped. I am not affiliated with them, they didn't pay me to review them, and I did not recieve anything for free to promote them. I simply am because these are excellent quality. You can check out their web sites here for more information: https://www.mthealthy.com https://www.facebook.com/mthealthyhatchery Also, check out the simple diy waterer I invented during the early days of the pandemic (that you can also make a feed container the same way, just use larger holes) - that video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0Ik8xw-_F0 And also my chicken playlist here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTiXnE4fidE&list=PLtuxCWv2q-8WDgZBy5U3RIJREHiwpzjl6 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7396sl5PPU