This is my explanation video for the card flip puzzle Matt Parker had on his channel on April 15th.
There might be an algorithm in there to create the bit pattern automatically, but I at a glance, I couldn't see it. I would have needed one more bit manually to derive a pattern between n and n+1 bits, and I just didn't have time for that! Building that card-flippy-thingamajig took enough time already! ahem...
Anyhow, I hope you enjoyed watching this little fun thing as much as I enjoyed making it... and I still hope, I am correct in my solution and there is no quicker way of covering 100% of all possibilities... ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fI--TGhxRZg
Welcome back! It's been a busy month for me with my RL job and a convention to take care of, so here's a bit simpler video, just to keep the rythm of releases up, OK!
I still have quite a backlog of tinkering video material and hopefully a bit more time in the coming weeks, so expect another one soon-ish.
For this installment, I did some repair on older LCD games. Most of you might not even remember those little time killers of the 80s.
A friend asked me to have a look at two of these and a Gameboy Color cartridge. I was unsure about how much I could do for these, as the designs are not really made for servicing, but hey, they were not working now, what could get worse by trying?
I know that the battery replacement would benefit from a battery that includes the contacts, but I couldn't find a reasonable replacement when I needed it, so the next best one that fits and has the right voltage had to make do.
Special guest appearance by Eddie McBadger!
Music:
My Train's A Comin'
Unicorn Heads
(YouTube Audio Library)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOCQ9HGizXU
Workshop Project #31 - HP1607A Logic Analyzer
This time on the bench: a very early logic analyzer. The HP 1600A model that I restored about a year ago (link below!) has a companion model: the 1607A. During the 1600's restoration, I learned that these can be combined to form a 32bit wide unit, so I just got to have one. Normally, I'd be happy with the 1600, since it doesn't need any external device for dispaly, but the idea to combine two 16bit units for special jobs was too interesting to me.
I managed to get myself one - and also the pods for it! - on e-bay. It arrived shortly before the 1600 was done, but now I finally got around to pick up the project!
0:00 Intro / Overview
1:54 Inside! / Display- and Logic Board
3:45 Power Supply / Trimmers / Trigger Switches / BNC
5:20 Front Panel / Delay Dial / Case Frame
6:10 Back Panel / Heat Sink
6:57 Recapping Overview and Example
8:16 Mains Switch / Teardown + Assembly
11:05 Transformer Cleanup / Push Button Cleanup / Probe Pod Sockets
12:43 Delay Dial Cleanup / Potentiometer Knob Problem
14:22 Assembly Time! / Back Panel + Transformer
16:12 PSU Mounting
17:19 PSU Power Up and Voltage Check / PSU Circuit Explanation
18:40 Back Panel Finishing Touches / Case Frame
19:52 Handle / Front Panel Preparation
21:11 Front Panel Mounting
22:09 Power Indicator LED / PCB Cleanup / Front Panel Finishing Touches
23:08 Display Board
24:38 Logic Board
25:25 Power On! / Pods!
26:40 5V Adjustment / Output Signal? / Hunting down The Issue
28:13 Found it! / Fixed it!
29:24 Got Signal! / Got Scope! / Case Lids
30:36 Connecting 1600A? / Trigger Bus / IO Bus
32:05 Final View / Summary / Credits / Outtake
HP 1600A restoration video (part 1 of 2): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-43Ic0IyNNA
Music (in order)
My Train's A Comin' - Unicorn Heads
(YouTube Audio Library)
You can support me on Ko-Fi: https://ko-fi.com/atkelar
and also on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/Atkelar
and now also here by using the "Super Thanks" feature!
Thanks to everybody who signed up already!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1T1eLl0yjc
A brief "commercial" or "reminder" I did for FPS's pre-easter show to remind people of the "Chocolate Bunny Death" segment...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXvIpBxEtHU
A day late for April fools... but hey... if you read the discription first, there just was a spoiler ? - A comment about me "rewinding everything with windings" and "soon there will be custom caps" made me thinking: Sure, wax and foil caps are easy enough to make. And some Audiofools might even think those have superior sound. Just like mom used to make them ?
I was actually surprised to see that thing at 10nF - but it doesn't stay stable so at the end it was a bit low. It also has about 18M, so it's certailny NOT for actual use... other than novelty!
Bees wax makes it smell nice ^^
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_9C9rBxJ5U
Workshop #19 - BBC GOERZ UNIGOR A43
In the early 1990s I attempted some higher education... keyword "attempted". I did have some problems with math; somehow the jump between our local school and the technical college was a bit too steep. I did catch up with most of the stuff a few years later, but math was a pivotal subject and I failed almost in all other subjects because of that. But it was my first serious contact with electronics, and the electronics lab there had a bunch of these meters for student use. This is why I do feel kinda nostalgic about it.
I didn't write down the model number back then and for the longest time, I tried to find out what they were, so I might get one... and then I binged a few older videos over at @EEVblog and jackpot! This one here had it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S00c_qQB-hA
I jumped on ebay and got myself a decent one. Dave's had a "Bauzustand B" sticker on it (i.e. "Revision B") and mine has a "C" revision sticker. Also, his was branded "Metrawatt", mine says "BBC GOERZ" on it. BBC seems to be a rebranding of the origial Metrawatt / Gossen company but I couldn't find info on the "GOERZ" name...
When it arrived, I gave it a good wipe down and put it on my desk, since it seemed to work just fine. But when I tried to measure something recently, it was acting up and the needle was jumping all over the place, so I decided to put a bit of effort into it and see if I could fix it!
The protection switch wasn't connected; I assume that the students had them disconnected; they probably had something similar to our school going: you trip a breaker, you pay the next soda pop. Either that, or the magnet was too weak even back then and it tripped during normal operation.
0:00 Intro / Presentation / Stuck Case
2:50 Finally Open! / Overview
4:06 Selection Switch and Sockets Disassembly
5:05 Cracked Mirror Replacement
7:07 Contact Cleaning
7:40 Battery Terminals
8:19 Circuit Breaker - Explanation
9:25 C.B. - Disassembly
10:30 C.B. - Rebuild
12:45 Broken Notch Repair / Replacement Battery Switch
13:30 Meter & Switches Assembly
15:00 Sockets Assembly / Reconnecting
16:25 First Measurements / Trimmers
17:10 Final Steps / Closing up Shop / Feature Overview
19:15 Done! / Summary / Outtake
Music:
My Train's A Comin'
Unicorn Heads
(YouTube Audio Library)
You can support me on Ko-Fi: https://ko-fi.com/atkelar
German wikipedia https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMC-Instruments
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23s4yL_0rVQ
After I made the last video, Karpour asked me if I could have a look at one of his Windows CE based devices. An HP Jornada 820, where the screen had some LCD column problem. Every 10 or so pixels, one column was semi-dead, but only in the upper half and also only one or two color channels. To me it was clear that either the connection between the glass panel and the driver was faulty, the driver chip had experienced a meltdown or - unlikely but possible - the LCD controller on the mainboard had some damage.
Karpour said, that he already had a replacement screen in a somewhat broken but compatible model that could be swapped out if needed. I agreed to give it a try, but suggested to skip any pixel-addressing fixes and go for the replacement screen right away, since it may damage the screen permanently if I tried something more... invasive.
Doing some research about the Intel StrongARM chip showed that the CPU is also the display controller. So if that was at fault, I couldn't do much. The CPU is a tight BGA chip and I have no intention of reflowing one of those any time soon.
Turned out to be "just" the display, because swapping the one from the broken model worked like a charm from the get go.
The plastic was about as brittle as it can get... some of the threaded inserts just crumbled away. I used epoxy glue to secure as many of the lose parts as possible.
Not shown in the video, but still an issue: The part that was broken in the damaged model is broken in all 820s it seems: There would be room for two screws to hold it in place, but HP decided that "one is enough" and so the entire tension of the hinge is always tugging on that one screw. Eventually the plastic there WILL break, as the hinge has a counter-spring to hold the display open or closed and it doesn't move easy on that side.
Links:
Wikipedia about the Jornada: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jornada_(PDA)#Jornada_820
Karpur (Twitter): https://www.twitter.com/karpour
Donate a few bucks for some coffee (or some equipment upgrades): https://ko-fi.com/atkelar
Music:
My Train's A Comin'
Unicorn Heads
(YouTube Audio Library)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SjU_W3nOzM
This video is slightly all over the place: it has been recorded earlier this year and I didn't know yet how much footage I would need, so it's not quite as coherent as I would have liked. Learning curve and such.
To my best knowledge, the camera seems to be the "first model", mentioned in here: http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Agfa_Billy_Compur - the one depicted has a different lens and double exposure protection, which mine doesn't have. If I'm right, that would put it between 1935 and 1942, or about 75 years old.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lo1Tb9lwStA
Time Clock - Restoration Project #47 - Part 2
Part 1 is over here: https://youtu.be/dsYLKyeK_Vw
A very common question I get almost everywhere is "how much time do you spend on the projects?" - and I have no idea. I do have a fully blown phobia of timekeeping aparently. And yes, that's a problem for my day job too. But it led to an interesting eBay search and here's the result: A vintage time clock!
Like so many nifty gadgets, it's of US origin and takes the wrong voltage/frequency to run. And even if I don't want to hook it up permanently, I still want it to work for whenever I do fancy it for whatever purpose. So it was clear from the get go that I needed to do same modifications...
In this part 2, I can start putting things together again and find out all the details of the inner workings.
The clock was missing any identification markings about model or series numbers, but had a sticker for "Cincinnati Time Clock Co." on the side. They might be the ones who maintained it though, as the best "looks like my device" hit so far was provided by Rynnan, who discovered an IBM model 2500-5 that looks exactly like this one. Although the "-5" might indicate a "master clock" driven model, the chase and clock face is an exact match with mine... The early "IBM" tag might also be a reason why it has gone missing, as that might be a nifty collector's item.
0:00 Intro / Review
1:11 Assembly Start: Coil Pack / Base Plate / Actuator Plate
3:00 Leaf Switches / Feet
4:08 Ribbon Winder
5:15 Ribbon? How and Fix
7:20 Assembly: Clockwork Beginning...
9:38 ...Frame Completed, More Springs and Levers...
10:25 Number Wheels
11:25 Aligning Levers
13:50 Clock Shaft / Motor
14:40 Clock Face / Clock Gears
16:15 First Test With Motor / Electrical Work
18:03 First Stamp Test / Lock Issue
19:35 Second Stamp / Mechanism Slow Motion
20:20 Stmap Explained
22:15 Overview / Summary / Credits / Outtakes
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_clock - Generic info about time clocks for the young ones out there
Music:
My Train's A Comin'
Unicorn Heads
(YouTube Audio Library)
You can support me on Ko-Fi: https://ko-fi.com/atkelar
and also on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/Atkelar
...and since a month, you can also drop a virtual coin into the YouTube hat by using the "Super Thanks" feature!
Thanks to everybody who signed up already!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZotcpGtr_Xg