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6 Sep 2023 20:38:13 UTC
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Aerial Imagery Map for OsmAnd
I was about ready to give up exploring this old road that shows up on the 1895 USGS historical top map. But, I came up with a new tool that'll really help the next time I head up that road
The key revelation was to add an aerial imagery base map and then use a transparent hill shade overlay map to help visualize the areas of trees, brush and grass up on the bench that starts around 1600 ft. elevation. It turns out there's a large, grassy meadow up there that should make getting around the area possible. There are signs of many old roads as well as possible excavations that are worth another trip up here next spring, which is the best time to venture up here.
If anyone has any information regarding this area, post up in the comment section below. I've been trying to track down a copy of "History of Black Mountain and Monte Bello Ridge", 1959, George Morell.
OsmAnd - Create Offline Raster & Vector Maps:
https://osmand.net/docs/technical/map-creation/create-offline-maps-yourself/
I don't think there's an imagery base map available for OsmAnd. I don't need one for the entire country, I only need one for the area that my individual hill shade map covers.
USGS National Map Viewer w/ Hill Shade layers:
https://apps.nationalmap.gov/viewer/
About the USGS HTMC:
https://www.usgs.gov/programs/national-geospatial-program/historical-topographic-maps-preserving-past
View/download maps on the TopoView site:
https://ngmdb.usgs.gov/topoview/
USGS Quaternary Faults and Landslide Maps:
https://earthquake.usgs.gov/education/geologicmaps/qfaults.php
More to come...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9R5lvT_WTE
The key revelation was to add an aerial imagery base map and then use a transparent hill shade overlay map to help visualize the areas of trees, brush and grass up on the bench that starts around 1600 ft. elevation. It turns out there's a large, grassy meadow up there that should make getting around the area possible. There are signs of many old roads as well as possible excavations that are worth another trip up here next spring, which is the best time to venture up here.
If anyone has any information regarding this area, post up in the comment section below. I've been trying to track down a copy of "History of Black Mountain and Monte Bello Ridge", 1959, George Morell.
OsmAnd - Create Offline Raster & Vector Maps:
https://osmand.net/docs/technical/map-creation/create-offline-maps-yourself/
I don't think there's an imagery base map available for OsmAnd. I don't need one for the entire country, I only need one for the area that my individual hill shade map covers.
USGS National Map Viewer w/ Hill Shade layers:
https://apps.nationalmap.gov/viewer/
About the USGS HTMC:
https://www.usgs.gov/programs/national-geospatial-program/historical-topographic-maps-preserving-past
View/download maps on the TopoView site:
https://ngmdb.usgs.gov/topoview/
USGS Quaternary Faults and Landslide Maps:
https://earthquake.usgs.gov/education/geologicmaps/qfaults.php
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9R5lvT_WTE
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SOLAR
solar-home-heating-booster-fan
Added a 6"/150mm booster fan to the solar home heating system.
I use solar as the primary source of home heating. There are 2 ClearDomeSolar hot air panels on the roof. A combination of DC and AC powered fans and blowers pull outside air into the panels and then force the heated air into the house as well as exhaust house air outside. All parts of the system are solar powered:
https://youtu.be/fGMP5mZsGzc
My original solar heat system used the heat trapped by the patio enclosure along with a 12V DC powered fan to push that air into the house:
https://youtu.be/yGIFppJNMCc
Now, I've added back that original part of the system in parallel with the hot air panels. Once the new patio enclosure gets sealed up, it should trap a lot more heat than the old one did. This is because the new enclosure uses double wall clear panels compared to the single wall of the old enclosure.
While this add-on booster fan isn't a huge improvement right now, it was easy enough to add. And in time it should add more heat gain to the system. Right now, it may add about 1* F temperature rise to the house over the day.
These active solar heating systems have been in use for the last 14 years now as the primary source of home heating. Backup heating is via a wood burning fireplace insert. Backup to that is a natural gas furnace that's not been used in that 14 years.
I believe it's important to have multiple sources of heat in the house. The solar heat works well most of the time unless we have extended periods of cold, cloudy weather. In that case, the wood heat can take over, unless the local air quality officials have a ban on wood burning. Usually this is not a problem during stormy weather as the wind is usually blowing:
https://youtu.be/37K3pVQepaM
But if the first two systems are not able to heat the house, the old gas furnace can be fired up:
https://youtu.be/SYMYed_1xMI
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Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5sSHcfqMbI
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VIDEO
3D PR
3d-printed-(tpu)-shock-bushings-for-the
Testing out 3D printed TPU shock absorber bushings on the 1985 4Runner.
Original Thingiverse page with just the L1 hourglass bushing STL files:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5411334
Details on the front shock setup:
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml#LongTravelShocks
Initially, I had fastened the side shocks to the factory shock tower with a couple of bolts. This made for a nice, narrow setup, but it over stressed the steel of the factory shock tower and that ultimately failed. So I redesigned the mounting bracket to be separate from the factory tower. That made the setup wider and I needed to lengthen the 3/4" steel rod top mount. That made the rod too long to fit into the shocks in 1 piece, so I had to add a 1-1/2" long extension that can be removed to get that rod in and out of the shocks. I also added a pair of steel spacers, that fit between the top of the shocks, to hold them in position side to side.
I figure this is a good place to test out these 3D printed bushings as it's not a "mission critical" part. After all, I drove the truck for some time before I tracked the strange noise from the front to the missing bushings. If anyone wants to try these bushings out, please report back on your results. Now, if you need to replace the original bushings, Rancho does offer reasonably priced replacements. But if you need a modified bushing, by all means consider 3D printing a replacement. Stay tuned to an upcoming video where I'll dive into more modified bushings...
J. Stevenson was also one of the early advocates of using Toyota mini-truck rear springs up front (a.k.a. RUF) and I think I was one of the first to run RUF spring on my 4Runner:
https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension-III.shtml#CustomSprings
One drawback of the shock setup is the number of shocks required. I picked up the 4 - RS9120 shocks on a "buy 3 get 1 free" sale at 4WPW. I think I had the original RS5010 shocks and later swapped to the RS9012 and finally the RS9012XL gas pressure shocks. But I figure the money saved on the essentially free springs went to pay for the additional shock absorbers.
More to come...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3aMhf3ZYI8
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3 months ago
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VIDEO
BROKE
broken-spoke-nipple-repair-part-2
Resealing the rim, mounting the tire, adding tubeless sealant and sealing up the new tire.
Applied new rim tape extending one spoke hole either side of the hole that the new spoke nipple was installed in. I used a hot air gun to get the tape to adhere well to the tape below. I suppose I could have removed a section of tape and applied new or even removed all the tape, but adding a 2nd layer seemed to work fine.
New folding bead Marathon Mondial tire (700x40) was installed on the rim. I used the shop compressor to seat the beads, going up to ~40 psi (Stans ArchEX rim limit is 50 psi as I recall).
Then I added two measures of Orange Seal Endurance Sealant through the valve stem. Tire inflated to ~45 psi, shaken and rotated to spread sealant over the tire/rim surfaces. Then laid the wheel flat on a bucket and applied soapy water and flipped it back and forth until all the leaks stopped. This tire sealed up very easily and has been holding air beautifully. It maybe loses 1 psi in a week, if that.
Having new fresh tread does wonders for traction. Did a couple of rides on some muddy roads and was amazed at the tire grip.
Yes, the tires are listed as 50-80psi on the Schwalbe web site. I've been running them tubeless @ 30 psi since 2013 (~5000 mi. / 8000 km at this point) with no problems at all. Oh, and they are not a "tubeless ready" (TL) rated tire either. So yes, I'm breaking all the rules, but that's what this bike is all about. Your mileage may vary, but I love this setup.
So far the Orange Seal is working great. Been 9 months since installing the tire and have not had to top off the sealant at all. With the Stans sealant in the front tire, I've had to add a measure in that same time. Tire usually need 1 - 2 pumps of air on the floor pump each week to top off the pressure.
Affiliate links below:
Schwalbe Marathon Mondial HS 428 Double Defense City/Touring Bicycle Tire - Folding Bead:
http://amzn.to/2F5spid
Stans NoTubes Rim Tape:
http://amzn.to/2Cp12gg
Orange Seal Endurance Tubeless Sealant:
http://amzn.to/2Gk4s6b
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgxsIJjGKG8
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VIDEO
TUBEL
tubeless-tire-rotation-ride-report
The tires sealed up over night and after another shot of sealant went up and did a 36 mile ride in the hills.
This is the first time in many years that I had both tires at 40psi (2.7 bar) riding in the dirt and they are almost un-rideable. No traction on rocky climbs as the rear tire bounces over rocks in the trail. Front and rear tires would bounce off small rocks unexpectedly.
The following week, with the tires at 29 and 31 psi (2 bar) I rode the same trails and the ride and traction was awesome. Having more rear tread depth was noticeable. I was able to ride up a steep ledge where I spun out the last few weeks. Also the few wet spots from sealant dried up after the first week, so I think the tires are holding air well.
And a lesson learned is that changing 2 tires takes almost no additional time over one tire. With all the tools and sealant out, most of the time is spent waiting for the tires to seal up.
As suspected, after about 6 months, the older tire, that's now on the rear, is starting to show the first signs of rubber cracking. It should hold up long enough to "retire" it this fall/winter in time for the muddy trail conditions we get that time of year. The front tire is doing well, center tread blocks are quite worn down but the side tread is still good and it works fine in the dirt.
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#schwalbe #bike #tubeless #cycling #monstercross
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNcjVBPcAuo
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VIDEO
NEW Y
new-years-waterfall-2-view-from-the-top
Atmospheric river storms got this waterfall running on New Years Day. The camera view doesn't do it justice. I had scouted this area out a year prior and kept it on my list to check after a heavy rain storm:
https://youtu.be/5VjQvBeCuwo
This water fall drops about 50 ft. (15 m) into Stevens Creek at the end of the outflow channel of an old abandoned pond. Located a few miles west of Cupertino, CA. This part of the falls is hidden from view from below.
#shorts #shortsvideo #short #waterfall
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLgwPysroNo
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VIDEO
TIRE
tire-inflator-and-chuck-repair
Fixing a leaking air chuck on a tire inflator and looking at how this ingenious device works.
This is an old dual foot chuck tire inflator, but the same fix works on ball end style chucks as well. Over time, the rubber sealing grommets inside these tire chucks wears out. Luckily, it's easy to replace these grommets and restore them to like new condition. Sure, they can be discarded and replaced. But what's better than preventing adding something to a landfill by using another thing that was also destined for a landfill to repair the first thing by repurposing the second thing?
With the single ended ball foot checks, you can often get by with flipping the existing grommet over to make use of the less worn inside face. However, if the rubber is worn too far, cracked or torn, replacement is the best option. Sure you can replace the whole chuck, but that requires either a trip to the hardware store for a new part plus the time to remove it from the air hose or quick connect and then clean up seal the threads and reinstall the new part and then check for leaks.
More information and replacement grommets:
https://www.4crawler.com/YouTube/index.shtml
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Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTFlH_7vSZs
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Created
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VIDEO
RISE
rise-of-the-phoenix-update
A 3 month update on my analog TV + Raspberry Pi network media player, aka the Phoenix.
In short, its working quite well. Recently I was using it to stream live TV coverage of the Tour of California bicycle race in my shop.
Ironically, I used the Phoenix TV add-on for Kodi to stream the 720P NBC Sports Network coverage and display it at 480P on the old analog TV screen.
I've now added a simple on/off power switch for the TV to eliminate its' standby current drain:
https://youtu.be/tf-mqYYaKFM
Image credit:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File%3APhoenix-Fabelwesen.jpg
By Bertuch-fabelwesen.JPG: Friedrich Johann Justin Bertuch (1747-1822) derivative work: Tsaag Valren (Bertuch-fabelwesen.JPG) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbwp3f0K-E8
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VIDEO
REPLA
replacing-a-worn-out-shift-knob,-part-2
Trying some finishing techniques on the 3D printed gear shift knob.
This part comes with no finishing instructions, so I wanted to document a few things I tried. I could have just jumped to the finished part, but I wanted to show things that didn't work as well.
Timeline below if you want to skip ahead:
0:00 Lacquer Stik Fill-In-Paint Application
1:01: Lacquer Stik Result
3:33 3D Printing time lapse
3:56 2nd try with a new knob
4:47 Results with drywall mud to fill in the lettering
I'm not bashing the fill-in-paint. It's designed for use on shallow, stamped or engraved lettering. I've tried it with some stamped lettering, by scrubbing the stick back and forth over that and wiping off the excess. It works great for that, but I don't think this was a good application for it the lettering was just too deep:
https://amzn.to/2YDIY3d
More to come...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VlVmbuF58sk
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VIDEO
ANOTH
another-broken-spoke-repair
Repairing another broken spoke on the cross bike and setting up a new Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tire tubeless.
This was filmed in Sept. 2020. Had planned on running the existing tires until the winter rains started here in Nov/Dec. But with needing to remove the tire to repair the spoke, it was just not worth the effort and sealant to re-install the tire for a few months, so I decided to put the new rear tire on now.
Since I had run the tire that's now on the front for about 4 years on the rear of the bike, it had worn down until almost no tread remained. Since I had just topped up the sealant in August, I decided to run the front tire until the sealant was out before swapping it out.
This will slightly change my tire management plan. I still plan on running the tires for 3 years on one end of the bike. After that time, I'll just swap the front and rear tires and run that way for another 3 years and then finally replace both tires with new ones.
I've used these tires for about 8-1/2 years now and have a good idea how long they last, both in terms of tread wear and of rubber aging due to time and environmental conditions. For example, I find that ~4 years on the rear of the bike will pretty much wear out the tread. However, the tread on the front tire hardly wears at all in that same time. After ~7 years, the rubber starts to show surface cracks then deepen and cause sealant leaks. So the plan is to run a given tire 3 years on the rear of the bike and then replace the tires after 6 years. This should maximize the tread wear and ensure tires are replaced before they start leaking.
I still really like these tires and I do plan on sticking with them. I find these tires are good for my type of riding. On a typical ride, about 75% of the distance is on pavement. The rest of the ride will be on gravel, dirt or rocky MTB single track. These tires ride decently on pavement, they have decent traction off the pavement and are very durable. Knock on wood, but so far have only had one flat in nearly 12K miles.
Glad I had a collection of spokes and nipples salvaged off old wheels that I've ridden over the years. Just dug though those parts and found all I needed to make the repair. If I run into any more breakage on these wheels, I think I'll pick up a new set of spokes and nipples and re-lace the wheels. I've done that on almost all my previous bikes and never had a problem with broken spokes when I lace up the wheels myself.
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f7ZgDnWKcDk
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