Working on the the next six 20P 18650 battery modules and improving the build process. Making improvements in the process for assembling the 20P battery modules. Added two more cell polarity checks to try and prevent inadvertently installing a pair of cells backwards. I modified the bullet connector holder by drilling a stepped hole through the bottom of the material to allow the terminals to fit in deeper and be more stable. This makes soldering in the 12AWG solid copper wire much easier. You'll need S-1 jumper wires for a nS-20P battery pack, i.e. 4S = 3 wires. I also built a buss wire bending jig out of some aluminum scrap. It allows the end of the wires to be bent in a repeatable fashion. A total of 4 such wires are needed per module, so 16 for a 4S or 28 for a 7S battery. The jig over bends the wire, the excess is trimmed off to fit into the battery holder recess along with the wire from the other direction. This jig really speeds assembly time as there is almost no adjustment of the wire bend required as was needed with the hand bent wires I first used. Lastly, I've figured out the best order to to the assembly steps in. First install the buss wires and screws. Trim the long ends of the screws and also crimp on insulated spade lug terminals for the balance leads. Then install the 3 spacers on the negative side holder. Now stuff the pairs of cells in, making sure that the positive terminal is up. Then set the positive holder down and screw it down to the spacers. Then test each cell voltage in the pack making sure all voltages are the same polarity. This is the last chance to easily swap a pair of cells around if needed. Then tin the positive buss wires and solder on the 30AWG fuse wire. Flip the pack over and test for voltage along the negative battery ends to check the continuity of the fuse wires. This is also a 3rd check that all the polarities are correct. Finally tin the negative buss wires and solder in the 18AWG jumper wires to the negative battery terminals. More to come... Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_Rqo3JMpFU

Let's look at some miscellaneous features in Kodi compared to Windows Media Center. One WMC/MCE feature I missed in the earlier videos was the Radio function. If you have an FM radio tuner in your WMC, you can tune over the air FM radio stations. Preset stations will be exported via ServerWMC to any Kodi clients. Kodi can't access the tuner setting directly like an MCE could. You can manually add streaming radio channels to WMC: - http://www.thegreenbutton.tv/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=4610 or there are some plugins, like RadioTime: - http://radiotime.com/tv/media_center Kodi makes Internet radio trivial, see my review video here: - https://youtu.be/AJPy5SwVa-I And for general plugin/add-on support, I think Kodi wins hands down, even something as basic as Youtube support: - https://code.google.com/p/macrotube-providers/ Broken in WMC, works great in Kodi. User Interface is different, if you must have the WMC UI, an MCE is your best option. Kodi has loads of skins, but none are the same as WMC. Maybe the Kodi community will step up and make one one day. Not saying WMC is better, but it is quite efficient and easy to use. Beyond the traditional "10 foot UI", my analogy is can it be operated at 3AM if you are half awake and trying to fall back asleep by watching a video. WMC can for sure, Kodi might take a little more thinking and clicking. In the next video, we'll look at some of the system level features and see how the two platforms stack up. So stay tuned for that. As always, thanks for watching. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKt0u20JOks

Re-threading some stripped out holes in the tailstock thrust bushing on the G4000 metal cutting lathe. When I repaired the tailstock ram set screw, I also replaced the original set screws in the tailstock thrust bushing as the screw sockets in the original screws were shot. However, even with new M5 screws, the threads in the cast iron and steel parts were gone. So I ordered up a 3-piece tap set in 1/4-28 and some matching set screws. I had M6-1.0 and 1/4-28 taper taps, but I didn't have the plug and bottoming taps. I figured I would have more use for the SAE thread size taps so went for that over the M6 tooling. I left one M5 screw in place, then drilled/tapped the other hole, inserted the 1/4-28 screw and then drilled/tapped the first hole. I also put a witness mark on the bushing and tailstock body for future alignment. So far the tailstock is working like new. I may need to adjust the handwheel if it doesn't loosen up with use. But cost for the tap set and screws was about US$8.00, vs. buying a new tailstock body from Grizzly: Replacement p/n: P40001012 TAILSTOCK BODY, 2017 cost US$85.25 http://www.grizzly.com/ Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhJH5zHk7e4

Repairing a stuck power switch, replacing motor brushes and installing a new grinding wheel. I purchased this grinder back in the '90s as I recall. This is now the 2nd time I've replaced the carbon motor brushes. This model driver uses ~1/4" square brushes with built-in shunt and spring. This is very similar to the brushes used in many Toyota and Honda vehicles for the in-cabin blower motor. I've replaced the blower motor brushes in my Toyota 4Runner once. Not sure what was wrong with the switch, I didn't get it on video, but it was stuck in the off position. All I did was remove it, open it up and put it back together and it's working fine. I've really liked the Norton Charger Plus grinding wheels with the Zirconia Alumina / Aluminum Oxide abrasive blend. They cost about twice that of a normal Aluminum Oxide wheel, but last many times longer. Since I use this grinder extensively in my fabrication business, not having to change wheels as frequently is a big win. I later cleaned up the housing with the combination of a wire wheel, followed by a cotton buffing wheel and finally a wipe down with a rag and some acetone. You can see the finished result in the video thumbnail. Our web page with blower motor repair and carbon brush information: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Blower.shtml Norton Charger Plus grinding wheels, Amazon link: http://amzn.to/2fXk98D Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oswwOnLpxXM