Here's how I set up the DC Boost converter as a virtual solar panel. To test out the concept, I set up a 12v headlight relay between my battery and the DC Boost converter. The relay is actuated by a 12v wall adapter plugged into a Z-Wave controlled appliance module. The output of the converter is connected in parallel with a real solar panel and feeds a typical grid tie inverter, that is off camera, via a pair of 10ga. conductors. A DC watt meter reads the output voltage, current and power. I'm able to turn the virtual panel on and off via the home automation controller or manually at the appliance module. I'll show how I implemented the control algorithm in an upcoming video. I'll also look into adding a small cooling fan to the boost converter to help it run cooler and set up an external dump load, instead of the grid tie inverter, to make a stand-alone DC load: - https://youtu.be/9D3XSEF86eQ Soundtrack: Solar Flares by Silent Partner https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary/music ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iae2ONg-5JI

A video comparison of four different C3 Lithium-Ion battery packs I have in my collection. It's interesting to see the progression in the design over time. The earliest looking battery management system (BMS) design seems to be the most simple, as far as component cost. It's a smaller SMT PCB with quite a lot of hand-soldered wire connections. It was likely a lower volume, higher cost product, perhaps early in the product line. This pack has a large, 32-pin IC with markings: TS1102A 1128KM418 100 There is a smaller square IC with 5 terminals/side, 20 in all, under the connector post. Can't read any numbers off of it. The next model BMS has a larger SMT PCB with all the battery cell connections directly off the battery terminals to the PCB, so no separate wires. It has a single IC that I can see, but the conformal coating obscures the markings. It is labelled "U2", but I can't find a "U1". This PCB seems to be missing the large electrolytic capacitor like the other two have, but there is a rather large SMT capacitor that may have replaced the electrolytic. I found an "0830" possible date code, placing this pack as a mid-2008 design. What looks like the most recent pack, with a date code of Apr. 2010 on the PCB, has by far the most components. There is hardly any bare PCB at all. The IC is marked: HA1930 -I/SS or -1/SS 20R8 I found a link matching that part: - http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Hot-stock-HA1930-I-SS-SSOP28_60082567864.html That lists it as a voltage regulator and the SSOP/28-pin package seems to match as well. I've had no luck locating a data sheet or mfg. of that part. If anyone has any information, post up in the comments section below. The last pack is the extended capacity pack (XCP) rated at 48WH vs. 24WH for the compact packs. It is nearly identical to the previous pack with a few minor changes. Overall, seems like there has been quite a progression in the design of these batteries over the years. All are conformal coated, they all use dual IRF1404Z n-channel power MOSFETs for the battery protection switching. These are rated at 40V, 75A and 3.7milli-ohms. Seems to be a move towards more complexity in the BMS and a greater focus at automated assembly with minimal hand soldering. Also, the earliest pack had no ventilation for the MOSFETS, the later models included ventilation, so one might imagine overheating was an issue in the early model. I may want to drill a few holes in my early pack to let it cool better. In the next installments of this series, I'll take a look at what appears to be the internal balance charging circuit and also take a close-up look at some of the components. So be sure to subscribe for updates. Thanks for watching! ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dYnJTBaz6c

So far I'm really pleased with the new whiteboard. This is a Quartet Prestige 2 Magnetic Total Erase board. I also picked up a magnetic eraser that sticks to the board. And for pens, I purchased the Bic Great Erase Retractable pens which have a built-in cap and allow you to operate the pen with one hand. The board seems to erase well, there are no stains left even when erasing marks weeks old. I also fashioned a magnetic YouTube sticker and some graphing axes with some magnetic rubber sheet material. This makes a really nice multiple use board, dry erase, magnets or even sticky notes would all work on it. Soundtrack: Magic Marker by Silent Partner https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary/music ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kom-_fTUWdQ

In this video, I'll show how I measured the voltage, current and power consumption of the Cree-XRE 1W LED flashlight bulb. The bulb draws a little more power than advertised, about 1.28 watts on average, but still a 10-fold reduction over the original Krypton bulb that came in the worklight with comparable light output. At the end of the video, there's a data table and graph of the voltage, current and computed power data that I measured with my digital volt meter. The bench supply current meter seems to be reading about 10-20% higher than the DVM. Power calculated in a spreadsheet (volts x amps), raw data and plot at the end of the video. I think this LED bulb is the perfect addition to the C3 worklight and it also is a perfect load for an old NiCd battery pack. While these old NiCd packs drop in voltage quite fast with a high current power tool, this power regulated LED will maintain a constant brightness at all times. You can see for yourself that the light on the power supply does not change at all until I drop below 6V. And the heavier NiCd battery pack makes for a more stable worklight. So if anyone has or is looking at getting one of these C3 worklights, by all means get one of these LED bulbs: - https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashlight-bulbs/1-watt-flashlight-bulb/372/ I've seen this bulb available for a bit less at other vendors, but make sure you get the 7-26v version of the bulb and not the more common 1-9v version used in D-cell and 18650 flashlights/torches. I'm really happy with the way this C3/LED worklight turned out. This will be my second solar powered worklight, the first one is featured in this video series: - http://youtu.be/vnvx3VWDw2Q - http://youtu.be/s1Gxr4oa4ug This one is easier to carry and set up, but does not put out as much light. So each has a place and I think both will get a lot of use. If anyone from Craftsman watches these sorts of videos, they should seriously consider offering an LED version of this product, I think it would be a winner. As always, thanks for watching! ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv_X2Fbx5cY