Let's see if I can follow this old road that branches off the Canyon Trail and heads down to lower Gold Mine Creek in the Montebello Open Space Preserve that can be seen on the USGS hill shade map.
Last year, I didn't have my hill shade maps properly calibrated. This is the sort of old road that requires an accurate map as there are long stretches of road that are invisible on the ground.
I've ridden by this part of the Canyon Trail countless times and I've never noticed there's a road here. But once you know where to look, it's there. This is located just down from mile post 2.5. I'm not sure why this road was built. With the large grassy meadows, this area might have been used for cattle grazing and this road was used to access the lower portion of this area. There are other such meadows uphill from the Canyon Trail, although one of them appears to have traces of terracing on the hill shade map. Will need to check that out some time.
This may also be a good way to access Stevens Creek to see what this part of the canyon looks like. From Google Maps and the hill shade map it appears to be quite spectacular but also incredibly hard to access. This section of the canyon was ground zero for the 1838 San Andreas earthquake. That quake likely triggered some slides and earth movement that caused the creek to have to cut a very chaotic canyon here. I suspect it's this very rugged terrain that precluded extending the old Canyon Road up the main branch of Stevens Creek.
Atmospheric river storms got this waterfall running on New Years Day. I had scouted this area out a year prior and kept it on my list to check after a heavy rain storm:
https://youtu.be/5VjQvBeCuwo
This water fall drops into Stevens Creek at the end of the outflow channel of an old abandoned pond. Located a few miles west of Cupertino, CA.
#shorts #shortsvideo #short #waterfall
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7Lk02edk-Q
Unboxing and first look at a new VeraPlus ZWave+ home automation controller.
My 4 yr. old VeraLite is nearing the end of it's useful life. Its 32MB of flash is very limiting in that firmware updates are a real headache and every time it seems I need to remove another application to make room for the basic MIOS software.
I ended up purchasing a VeraPlus controller as it seems to include all the new communications protocols (ZWave+, Zigbee, Bluethooth and WiFi) and has more memory (flash and RAM) and a faster processor. As I put more devices onto the system, I think the VeraPlus will be able to handle the additional work load.
Vera ZWave controllers:
http://getvera.com/controllers/veralite/
http://getvera.com/controllers/veraplus/
To be continued, looking at the controller setup...
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZJDH2H_Klg
Let's check the exhaust temperature on the tank less water heater and see how hot it gets.
From testing at 1/3 output (40K BTU/hr or 12KW) it gets up to 100°F or 38°C
At 2/3 output (80K BTU/hr or 24KW) it rises to 110°F or 43°C
Link to Takagi T-H3M-DV-N heater installation manual:
http://www.takagi.com/media/54105/88A161.pdf
Stay tuned and we'll crank it up to 11 and see what happens!
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And as always, thanks for watching
Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkuscb7Bo-g
How I make off-line hill shade maps using the USGS national map viewer web application.
After months of trying various combinations, it looks like it is possible to make an accurate hill shade map for off-line use. I used the OSMand app. on Android which seems to offer some great map management tools. I was using this hill shade map as an overlay on top of the off-line vector map in the app. This way, I can adjust the transparency of the hill shade map to show details from the vector map, if required. The hill shade map could also be used as the base map or as an underlay to another base map.
I stress on the importance of getting accurate coordinates in this process. This hill shade data is inherently very accurate (~ 1 meter/pixel). All you can do is make it less accurate unless you are diligent in getting accurate latitude/longitude extents to enter when calibrating the image. Having a map that is not properly calibrated is no good when you're trying to find some faint trail out in the bush, BTDT!
OsmAnd - Create Offline Raster & Vector Maps:
https://osmand.net/docs/technical/map-creation/create-offline-maps-yourself
USGS National Map Viewer w/ Hill Shade layers:
https://apps.nationalmap.gov/viewer/
If you're looking for hill shade maps of Washington State, use the Washington DNR Lidar Portal instead:
https://lidarportal.dnr.wa.gov/
Awesome resource. If you know any other states that offer similar tools, post up in the comment section below.
More to come...
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#USGS #HillShade #osmand
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TT_iqGeZ2k
Let's test out the 3D printer enclosure and see how a large print in ABS plastic comes out.
The part I'm printing is an 18650 cell holder for a 20P battery pack. It's nearly a foot long and is a challenge to print in ABS due to it's tendency to warp as it cools:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1289889
It took a few tries but I think I finally dialed in how to print these large parts in ABS. I know I could print these parts in PLA and have a much easier time of it (and I have). But I wanted a worst case part for ABS to help try to dial in the process. And I needed these parts for my DIY PowerWall project anyway, so why not print something useful?
In the end I first tried sealing off my front cover but that seemed to hold too much heat. So I later removed the foil tape around the front cover to allow some hot air to escape and that seems to work the best, at least in the summer when the attic is up around 100*F. I may need to seal it back up in the winter when it's cooler, but that's easy to do with some tape.
Here's an improved filament feed system for the enclosure:
https://youtu.be/C3R-6B6-8Js
Be sure to rate, comment and share
And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMhjvp0vh4s
So where's the DC relay? In this video, I'll show you a simple way to add a DC relay to this Z-Wave controlled outlet box.
Since I'm working with a 12VDC system, I'll just use an inexpensive 30A headlight relay and use a simple 12V wall power supply (or wall wart) to control that relay.
Sure, there are Z-Wave DC relay modules available, but they tend to be more expensive. They also have the relay and contacts integral to the module, so if the contacts ever get pitted, the whole module needs to be replaced. With a separate relay, its a simple matter to swap out the relay if needed. I may also install a snubber diode across the contacts to minimize arcing when the contact open under load.
The way I've constructed this outlet box, nothing has been permanently modified. The original Z-Wave relay module is controlling the AC receptacles and that part can be used as-is if my needs change in the future. I can plug in a DC relay for what I need now. And this module can work with 220-240VAC as well, so by just changing out the receptacle to one for a different country, this unit could work on any power system world-wide.
In the next video, I'll look at some of the other options you could do with this setup and also show a bit of information I found on the mfg. of the Z-Wave module itself:
- https://youtu.be/BJYqDOvKo8Q
Some other Z-Wave controlled relays that I found, there are more out there:
Intermatic 30A Z-Wave contactor:
- http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Intermatic-CA3750.html
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module:
http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI
Questions welcome in the comments section below. As always, thanks for watching!
Soundtrack:
Solar Flares by Silent Partner
Magic Marker by Silent Partner
https://www.youtube.com/audiolibrary/music
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrkF1v5nO9w
1st generation Toyota 4Runner, making replacement bed side panels.
The original factory plastic side panels are showing signs of nearly 40 years of use and abuse. A previous owner of the vehicle had made cutouts for 6" x 9" speakers in the panels. Those openings, especially the screw holes, were badly cracked. I decided to eliminate those speakers as they're in the way of a future battery cage as well as they would be covered by a future fold-down cargo deck. I'll come up with another solution for the rear speakers.
I used the more intact passenger side panel to trace an outline on a half sheet of plywood. I did have to make some minor adjustments to the plywood as it's a flat sheet compared the the molded plastic it was to replace. Both side panels are identical in overall shape. I also didn't cut out any of the openings in the panels at this time. I felt that would weaken the panels with all the fitting work they'll need. That step will be done later in an upcoming video.
One thing that had to go was the carpet over the rear wheel wells. That could be retained, but the curve in the plywood would need to be cut higher to fit the carper underneath. As the carpet was going to interfere with my house battery cage, eliminating the carpet was the best choice. The tar tape that adhered the carpet to the wheel well was scraped off and the residue remove with turpentine. Multiple coats of Herculiner was sprayed onto the bare sheet metal for protection.
Hopefully
Materials used:
1/4" plywood cut to match the factory bed side panels.
1/4" - 20 threaded inserts and screws to replace the factory plastic push pins.
Bed liner spray, needed 1 - 15 oz. can to apply 4 coats to the 2 wheel wells:
https://amzn.to/469MSON
Killer Toy Tops:
https://killertoytops.com/
Some web archive links to soft top companies mentioned.
Kayline Mfg.:
https://web.archive.org/web/19990428193849/http://www.kaylinetops.com/
Specialty Top Co.:
https://web.archive.org/web/20010819040832/http://www.specialtytopco.com/
Can-Back:
https://web.archive.org/web/20010202070000/http://www.can-back.com/
#4Runner #softtop #seatback
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YbaQraLa7U
With the mountains closed due to fire operations, I rode the south portion of the SF Bay Trail, crossing the Dumbarton Bridge to make a loop.
My bike computer showed about 40 miles (64km) for the loop, Google Maps shows more like 43 miles (69km). On the map, I ran out of way points to mark out the remaining part of the loop along the 237 Bikeway portion of the trail.
Was nice to get to ride the newest portion of the bay trail in the Ravenswood Open Space Preserve. Aside from a short section of road side trail between that segment and the Dumbarton Bridge, you can ride from the south end of the Bay to the bridge on trails. It's always very windy over the bridge as it sits perpendicular to the prevailing NW wind coming off the Pacific ocean.
Managed to find 4 out of 7 GeoCaches I attempted. There's a lot more along the east side of the bay that I need to return and try to locate.
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#GeoCaching
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ2cgPGvzYo
Repairing a 15 year old dishwasher rack that has a damaged vinyl coating and is starting to rust. Finding more areas of damaged coating, working in full sunlight helped to see less bubbled up coating areas.
This is a 2007 GE Profile model dishwasher.
Tools required:
A small carving knife and a sharp wood chisel worked best for scraping off the bubbled up vinyl coating. A small wire brush helped remove any remaining surface rust and a small paint brush to apply the rust converter.
The process:
Scrape off loose vinyl coating.
Wire brush to remove rust
Treat exposed metal with rust converter:
Jenolite (or other brand) Rust Converter
https://amzn.to/3ztmAIY
Apply a vinyl repair coating over the rust converted areas:
ReRack Vinyl Dishwasher Rack Repair Coating, available in white and possibly gray:
https://amzn.to/3SR04k5
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, like, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgHMj2CmlYg