The passivation of a hho or separator cell is important to stop the "brown water"effect that is often observed.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqHqsPKhXPo
The Ford Transit is a real challenge to fit a system too. Not only is there little room to add the parts, but it has a strange none standard OBDII. There is no oxygen sensor and no cat converter. Because of this an hho cell has been installed to test. The cell has been made from left over separator cell plates, all new but a redundant design.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hhm-QcRRg8s
I have an old bomb of a van that I will eventually convert to a hydrogen assisted vehicle using our new H2O Separator Cell that is about to be released soon.
This old car has really dirty plugs and was misfiring badly.
I used my hydrogen torch to quickly clean the plugs as I knew that hydrogen eats up carbon. It worked immediately, the job only lasted a few minutes and the plugs were as clean as new.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrN2G2p_Ieo
Just a short video of the microprocessor controller - under bonnet version.
The new microprocessor makes installing the electronics for the separator cell so easy.
Just 10-15 minutes and it is all done.
This video shows the electronics only, the cell and tanks will be mounted as soon as I can get around to it. This model is for under the bonnet. The dash model has the LEDs on the front panel and also has a sound system so that you can get warnings if the cell is off due to low water or some other reason such as overheating (usually due to low water)
The timing cycle actually goes for 30 seconds, but as I had already switched the system on the cycle seemed short by the time I had removed the lid on the box.
At the end of the 30 second timing cycle, the green LED switches on and so does the solidstate relay that provides the power to the cell.
Eight programs within the microprocessor control the on and off periods per second of the power supplied to the cell. The control box has a thermal sensor that is attached to the cell to let the microprocessor know what the temperature is of the cell at any time.
One of the eight temperature programs will be active depending on the feedback from the cell. If for any reason the cell reaches a temperature that is considered too high, the system will shut down automatically until a working temperature has been reached. The cycle will then continue until the engine has been switched off.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M6RU1-V7t4
Trying out the Viper 30 for my DIY CNC plasma cutter.
Needs a bit of tuning to reduce the dross, but works OK.
Maybe increase the speed a bit so there is less dross, but it is easy to clean off anyway.
Making new parts for another DIY CNC plasma cutter, different design I am working on.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAIyzK6thnI
After spending several years developing the 3D Printer that I now have, I decided to give it a voice so that when I take it to do some demonstration at a club, a Maker Faire or elsewhere that people are new to 3D printing, can understand what is happening when the machine is working.
Also, as one function changes in the printing process, the RGB LEDs will change colour and indicate that one function has finished and another stating.
The machine will automatically shut down at the end of printing, turning off all power. This is very handy for those very long prints that are being done when you are sleeping as the machine can be left to turn itself off.
It turned out so good, I have decided to add the feature to some of my other 3D printers, I have many of them, all a little different though similar, and some not so similar.
The idea came when I saw a feature on the reprap forum that had been posted some years ago under the FF Module heading.
I will follow up with this video of my other 3D printers as I add voices to them. All should be a different voice although the same spoken content would be necessary in order to tell what function is being done at the time.
The voice used on this machine being shown now is Hazel, a British sounding voice speaking in English.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVxZPbZO_mY
This distiller was made from materials that I had handy. The sheetmetal was folded to make a drain tray and also the main body. Marine or exterior plywood could have been used instead.
The glass panel was from an old window (measures 870 x 810mm, but other sizes can be used)
After folding the sheetmetal and making the two side panels, all were riveted together with pop rivets and then painted black inside and out to help absorb more heat. The joints were then sealed with silicone sealant, tested for leaks and a drain hose fitted as close to the bottom of the drain tray as possible. A 25mm hole was made in the back panel about halfway up to add tap water (could be saltwater too). The glass panel is added last and sealed with silicone sealant to prevent any water vapour escaping.
For South Australian conditions, place the distiller with the glass panel facing North-West.
On a warm spring day you can expect between 1 and 5 litres of production, on a summers day more.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oHrDdrXDro
A demonstration of using a new oxyhydrogen torch designed for jewellery work, however I have been using it for many jobs around the workshop that I would usually need a bottled gas type torch. The torch comes with its own stand, and 5 nozzles. All is presented in a nice gift box with a magnetic catch.
For doing small work as in jewellery, it is absolutely marvellous, but even larger jobs as shown in the video show what it can really do.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZG4fXLbBXg