Added a 10 x 36 inch shelf over the DC chest freezer for increased storage. Originally I thought the chest freezer would make this area somewhat unusable, but now with the huge cabinet above, the shelf behind and the large work surface, it's a very useful area and an incredibly economical freezer using just 300 watt-hours of energy per day. Shelf was sized to be a bit shorter than the 41" freezer lid width, so a standard 10 x 36 inch shelf and a pair of 10 inch shelf brackets did the trick. I had 2 single track wall brackets laying around. Shelf height was adjusted to just fit behind the raised freezer lid. Cost for the shelf was under US$20: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-10-in-Single-Track-Bracket-for-Wood-Shelving-FG4C0102WHT/100088922 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-Gray-Twill-Laminated-Wood-Shelf-10-in-D-x-36-in-L-2028980/302836355 This gives enough storage space to hold a dozen polyurethane body mount bushing kits in back along with an assortment of polyurethane spring bushing kits in front for easy access. Freezer is made in the US by: Solar Freeze, Llc https://www.solarfreezellc.com/ LaGrange Indiana More to come... Subscribe for more content like this Comment, like, share & click the bell icon And as always, thanks for watching Intro/Outro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6WRX5SPgAc

Installing the new tankless water heater, hooking up the gas, vent and water connections. I'm not a licensed plumber. Video is for entertainment purposes only. The general plan was to align the heater to the existing gas piping, then fasten it to the wall there. Next, the exhaust venting was fit between the heater and the existing roof penetration. Next water was run via flex lines. And lastly, a condensate drain line connected the heater to the existing washing machine stand pipe. The reasoning behind this was to work off the existing fixed infrastructure then hook up everything else. Other situations may warrant a different order of operations. A sheet of OSB was attaches to the wall and screwed into the wall studs. This allowed the heater to be mounted at any position without having to worry about lining up the bracket holes with studs. A board was fastened to the OSB on the wall to support the bottom of the heater. A board on top held the top flange against the wall. This allowed the heater to be lined up with the rigid gas piping. Once aligned, the heater brackets were screwed to the OSB on the wall (3 screws on each bracket). Luckily there was a hole in each bracket that aligned with one stud, so 2 longer screws were installed in those holes to further secure the heater. 3/4" rigid piping was used for the final gas connection to minimize the pressure drop. There was already ~12 ft. of 1/2" gas piping behind the wall that would be hard to change. So far have loaded the heater up to around 90,000BTU/hr. (it's rated at 120,000) and no problems with gas pressure. Once the gas was connected and leak tested, it was time to connect the vent piping. With this condensing heater, PVC pipe is preferred for the venting. The old heater vent was 3" concrete/transite pipe: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transite So that asbestos-containing pipe was removed and replaced with 3" Schedule 40 PVC pipe, per the mfg. instructions. A pair of opposing 22.5* elbows and a 3.5" long tube in between made up the offset between the heater vent outlet and the hole in the ceiling. New hot and cold water shutoff valves were installed and 3/4" piping dropped down below the heater. 3/4" flexible s/s pipe made up the connection to the heater service valves. An Aqua Pure corrosion inhibitor was installed after the cold water shutoff valve (Amazon aff. link below): http://amzn.to/2rthJmB This should help reduce scale buildup in the heater and in things like shower heads and the dishwasher. A pair of 1/2" pipes dropped down with shutoff valves for the new utility sink to connect to. Link to Takagi T-H3M-DV-N natural gas water heater on Amazon (affiliate): http://amzn.to/2pWh2ko For a propane (LPG) version, use the link below: http://amzn.to/2pW9aP ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1bJWVVHItA

With the 8 dischargers mounted on the board, let's test the system and see how everything is working so far. I first tried using a 12V/1V power adapter that's the supplied charger for my 3S LiPo battery pack. It seems to drop in voltage too much and 3 of the 8 dischargers gave Err6, which is "input voltage too low". But running from my bench power supply, all is working fine. I noticed the heat sink temps were in the 75-77*C range, so I may look into incorporating a small cooling fan, stay tuned for that in the next video. Running with 3 pair and 3 single cells, the discharger ran to completion. I've also run all 8 units at once and that works as well. More to come, wrapping up the rest of the setup then looking at how accurate the ZB206+ units are: https://youtu.be/A2slgnrLn90 Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nI-DyfBcdwY

Let's swap out the 20W halogen bulb with a 3W LED in this "over the stove" microwave/convection oven. First of a series of videos about the GE/Kenmoore Advantium Speedcook oven . I've had this oven for about 10 years now and really like it. This is the 120V model, so lacks some of the features of the in-wall 240V model, but otherwise is very similar. Mine is the Kenmoore Elite brand from Sears, but identical to the GE Profile brand. Old product video: https://youtu.be/bRrh-DDCh_s G4 LED lamp I used: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-bi-pin/g4-led-bulb-3-watt-35-watt-equivalent-bi-pin-led-disc-white-hh/1640 Be sure your oven uses a 12V bulb here, apparently some models might use a higher voltage bulb. If so, be sure the LED replacement you select is rated for the voltage of the light bulb in your oven. LED has worked well and has paid for itself both in terms of power savings as well as eliminating ~4 halogen bulb replacements @$5/ea. In the next video, we'll look at the inside halogen bulb replacement as well as the "Cavity Thermal Cut-Out": https://youtu.be/WOUKmfgB83c I wanted to document this repair process so if I need to do it again, I'll be able to remember all the steps. Maybe this might be of interest to someone else with one of these ovens. Be sure to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching SOUNDTRACK: Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJFZzyCLRMw