This is the Double Barrel AR15 as seen in the TFB articles M16Z and Pipe Hitter 37mm.
This was formerly released in a limited trial and hosted briefly on most file sharing sites.
It was gradually censored or removed from those sites, and it is here to stay on Defcad and Odysee.
To assemble this firearm you will need:
-Everything for the dual reciever available in this pack
-Assorted M5 bolts in long sizes, (up to 100mm in length) to assemble the lower
-Two AR15 FCGs (such as binary for hilarious results)
-One standard right handed AR15 upper reciever
-Stag Arms or similar left handed left ejecting upper reciever and bolt carrier
-Handguards totalling less than 45mm wide for each side *0
-3.5" long 1/4 hitch pins or bolts as take down pins
-PDQ or similar right side bolt catch/release (if bolt catches are desired) *1
-Left side magazine release (if separate ejection is desired) *2
-Fortis Clutch or other one sided charging handle *3
-An optic for one or both sides that clear the recievers *4
-Left and Right Side Safety Selectors and grips *5
Additional Requirements as marked with *:
-0: There are 45mm between the barrel centerlines as assembled. The handguards will collide if they are over 45mm wide. The original M16z features two milspec m16 handguards and one has been cut along with the delta ring to avoid collision.
-1: The bolt catch for the right side reciever will function but will not be accessible as it sits between the recievers. A bad lever or similar inside trigger guard solution is not advised.
-2: A left side ambidextrous magazine release can be installed on the left receiever. In the files provided an extended printable magazine catch button is included that is pressed when the magazine latch on the right receiver protrudes and hits it.
-3: The upper recievers are close enough that the charging handles would collide. I used a Fortis Clutch charging handle on the left side. You could also simply cut down a milspec model.
-4: Sights with large quick release levers or knobs, such as a detachable carry handle can not be placed on the right reciever without modification as they will collide with the left reciever
-5* A grip can be placed on the left and or right receiver. The files include one extended safety bar that works for both sides. Please print this in at least PLA+ or stronger and test for function. Two regular grips or one normal and one cut down grip can be used to retain separate safeties.
Additional Information:
-If both recievers are properly faced and both barrels are the same make and model the points of impact will remain relatively parallel when used with the free floating tripod lug that attaches to the lower reciever. I have not made any device that adjusts the barrels nor fastens the handguards to eachother.
-The fiream can be assembled with only a left or right grip and the long paddle on the far side trigger, or two grips, preferrably with the opposite side trimmed down and two short paddles for pulling the opposite side trigger.
-Light profile barrels and furniture are reccomended for keeping the overall weight of the platform low. I used milspec barrels and handguards that are not free floated because the entire upper recievers are free floated from the tripod and the milspec handguard mitigates heat well.
-Drum magazines will not clear the reciever but two surefire 60 or 100rd magazines will fit simaltaneously, as well as ATI polymer 60 rounders with mild collision.
This is an optional set of prototype receiver side plates and center parts that are trimmed at the magwell. These should allow the FamAR to accept gen 3 pmags with the overtravel stop, 40rd pmags, 60rd scmeisser mags, and 100 and 60 round surefire magazines.
Additional trimming may be needed to fit nonstandard magazines.
This is the DSMG model specifically for my double barrel ar15. https://defcad.com/library/a3863dc1-5116-47f7-918e-b8d09eeb36b4/
It can be set up with separate actuation or both paddles linked so that one paddle may fire both barrels.
This rigid brace is based on a design for an M16 style brace I designed years ago and did not make. It was intended to be moulded or printed in flexible filament but this proved difficult. The brace attaches to a standard rifle buffer tube.
This is an F1 style forend for the FamAR15.
This is a retro appropriate front end set for the FamAR that more closely resembles the flat top valorise as depicted in Call of Duty Black Ops. The rear end of the FamAR is still only G2 style as it is necessary to use AR15 mags, and magazine catches.
Brownells 25 round straight prototype mags resemble the Famas 25rd magazine although they are priced for hardcore collectors.
This group of parts was shown to Patrons early, and only they were aware that this would release before now. If you would like early access or voting power on the next project, check it out at patreon.com/user?u=25583774
From initial feedback I get from the design pictures, end users may prefer the earlier handguard as it does not have the AUG type entire hand covering trigger guard.
Next up is a handguard that mounts my Pipe Hitter 37mm launcher directly to the Famar. This may also have a new foregrip, and maybe other features to make it look more like it belongs on a FAMAS. Sound off below. Should it come with a square FAMAS shaped handguard for the 37mm barrel to match the FAMAS, finger grooves and all? Would you want it to fit an M15 rifle grenade sight for the M1 Garand?
The BGO (Bootleg Grenade Defensive) is a model based on the RGO 78 grenade (Ручная граната Оборона 78) which uses a western style fuse that is made of plastic. It uses a body similar to the RGD5 and the fuses are interchangeable.
This model consists of a replica body printable in two parts that is threaded 5/8-11" and will fit standard M228 or M213 fuses, and a printable head that uses modified M228 components. The spoon needs the side flanges on the top surface removed to make room for the embossed text on the side of the fuse.
The printable fuse head must be printed at high infill and can only use small pistol primers or similar.
This is a fairly close replica of a DM51 grenade intended to use a re-armed M228 fuse head.
Follow the general B40 grenade guidelines for assembly and safety.
The only hardware needed for the grenade body is an M5 bolt and nut or similar for the mounting lug.
*As of Oct 2024 an error has been fixed with the inner fragmentation sleeve where an earlier version of part was included instead of the correct one.
This is a new option for the front handguard on the G2 style FamAR15 grip. Install it on the mlok slots the same way as the original, then use one 45mm long M5 bolt and nut to secure the cover over the picatinny rail.
Initially I had intended for modern accessories to mount directly to the Mlok, but why buy picatinny rail sections when you could just 3d print one, and one that looks cool as well.
The ANDABATA is the vision system created for my KAC ChainSAW inspired AR15 conversion kit. This kit allows the end user to place an analog FPV camera on the platform , and view it remotely from the BPNVG or the dedicated receiver.
The ANDABATA housing is two parts, and contains the following:
-A Runcam Night Eagle 3. A regular Eagle 3 can be used and the end user can also remove the IR filter from a standard Eagle 3.
-A 9v battery and 9v battery connector harness.
-A waterproof toggle switch.
-A wire for transferring the signal to the receiver. I used a 12v power plug so that if the unit is pulled or I forget to unplug the unit and set the platform down the cord can pull free of the connector instead of damaging the unit.
4x 40mm to 45mm long M5 bolts or similar, and nuts are the hardware sandwiching the two halves together and retaining the picatinny mount, and one 45mm long m5 bolt and nut are needed for the picatinny crossbolt. The unit can be raised with spacers and the four bolts will need to be lengthened an equal amount.
There is a top cover version with and without a logo. The Andabata is a punitive class of gladiator who were equipped with a helmet without eye holes. This is referential to the otherwise useless nature of the ChainSAW platform without it, and that it replaces the end users vision.
This is the toggle switch used but any similar switch will work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224944841302?hash=item345fc1e256:g:08kAAOSwN~diXdHD&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Ip3ZWSGrfls0q%2B89yEtfUab3mVukDGgCw4cXAPBT9i8ypCV4UcMAX49Vdg48oswvjBnzDrYBEZXzw5ZJiBwEjHbFsYdd0HyU9DE7iEXheueniCN1Gxgldt05VhHQJNZOOV3AReCiLvHhjEiSibPunwiCqA30Wezv%2F1aG96lzOeF9xi6XqZqQmAg4sI4v1TiV96Aqda7aNNMvoHCFiFkbDphhblkMmtC1AlKSt4xLJitb2NxbES%2Bz6ibsPQvrBu%2B4D1DxO7TgDi7fomBUOr8Qs3etfzVj51tdpDzFDyAWS6D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_CL_OiEYQ
In addition to my launchers I have been working on open source munitions for them.
This is a teaser for a collection of parts I have experimented on.
The first release will be a generic projectile and 3 cases.
The first case is a generic 209 primer based casing. These are what I am the most familiar with. I have used injection molded cases of this variety since the beginning. They're $3 a piece but this can make them cheaper.
The next two are my own design.
The first is powered by a 22lr blank and is offset to allow the firing pin to strike the edge of the case. Further research will have to be done to see if the asymmetric force causes loss of consistency.
The second is powered by a 45 acp blank. Its inspired by the military issue chalk round powered by a 38 blank. This should be the most consistent one if I can make its odd overall length work.