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8 Jul 2020 16:10:38 UTC
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Lithium Ion Battery Testing, Part 5
This video clip shows a battery that takes a pre-charge and rises to 3.0V at a 100mA charge rate.
If a cell gets up over 1.5 volts and is still rising, I'll leave it on the bench supply until the voltage hits 3.0V. Then I can move it to a Lithium battery charger, which I'll do in the next step.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGm8YYrd4-g
If a cell gets up over 1.5 volts and is still rising, I'll leave it on the bench supply until the voltage hits 3.0V. Then I can move it to a Lithium battery charger, which I'll do in the next step.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGm8YYrd4-g
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CRAFT
craftsman-c3-battery-charging-part-5a
I tried a few variations of powering one of the Craftsman C3 battery protection boards with a bench power supply to see how they behaved.
This again was a battery protection board out of a dead C3 battery pack I had purchased a while back on eBay. I wanted to see if the battery protection board would operate in some manner if supplied power to the power post or to the pack positive and negative terminals.
It turns out the answer is no. It seems that the main battery protection IC on the board is "smart" enough to detect there are no cells connected and it disconnects the battery pack MOSFETs. So if I try to send power in via the post (i.e charging), nothing reaches the pack. And if I try to simulate a 5S pack connected to the +/- terminals, nothing reaches the power post.
So the next step I'll try is to wire up some balance leads to the inter-cell connections and hook those up to a 5S balance connector to plug a 5S LiPo battery pack into. So stay tuned for that video.
If you have any questions or experiences with these C3 battery protection boards, fell free to post up in the comments section. And as always, thanks for watching!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0rcDK36dwY
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EARLY
early-june-rain-in-the-mountains
A short break on a bike ride up in the Santa Cruz Mtns. just as a light rain shower started. The rain continued for the rest of the ride up here, but never too heavy. I usually stay out of this area when it's stormy due to the high winds and the muddy trails, but this storm was calm and the trails stayed dry.
USGS Hill Shade map layer:
https://apps.nationalmap.gov/viewer/
About the USGS HTMC:
https://www.usgs.gov/programs/national-geospatial-program/historical-topographic-maps-preserving-past
View/download maps on the TopoView site:
https://ngmdb.usgs.gov/topoview/
I used the 1895 Palo Alto quadrangle or the 1900 historical topo as listed in GaiaGPS:
https://www.gaiagps.com/
More to come...
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#USGS #HillShade
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmzYQZeocyc
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VIDEO
7X12
7x12-horizontal-bandsaw-drive-wheel
This saw is around 17 years old and gets used daily for cutting metal and plastic stock to make parts for the business. One day, the cast iron drive wheel let go with a loud bang, nearly cracking in 2 pieces.
Closer examination showed it was likely a bad casting with lots of porosity visible in the 25mm center bore. Might have been able to weld this up with some aluminum bronze filler, but it would have broken in short order.
Harbor Freight had no parts available for this model saw that was discontinued so 10-15 years ago. Their new model saw is nearly identical, having a few new guards, safety features and paint scheme. However, they have no cross references for parts. Browsing their on-line parts page for this saw, shows nothing like this sort of part.
Harbor Freight saw:
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-hp-7-inch-x-12-inch-hydraulic-feed-metal-cutting-bandsaw-34272.html
Luckily Grizzly has an identical saw and their updated parts ordering page is excellent.
Grizzly Saw:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-7-x-12-1-hp-metal-cutting-bandsaw/g0561
Parts:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/g0561/parts
More to come...
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Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5QMM787E9A
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VIDEO
DIGIT
digital-caliper-bezel-replacement
Repairing the bezel on a Chicago Brand 6" digital caliper.
These calipers get used daily in the shop and one day I found the glass bezel had shattered. Removing the broken glass revealed the LCD screen to be undamaged.
Some of the raw material we use for some parts we manufacture for resale come in these small plastic boxes, which we save. It's a simple matter to cut a piece of plastic to fit into the recess where the bezel used to be. Some fabric adhesive to hold the plastic in place the the calipers are as good as new. Should be able to make about a dozen replacement bezels out of one plastic box.
When I was taking machining classes back in the late '90s. My dad gave me this digital caliper for a birthday present. Been using them ever since.
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Intro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WRJiXCNzyc
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VIDEO
TABLE
table-mountain-trail-closure-july-2022
PSA for folks planning to hike/bike/ride on the Table Mountain Trail in Upper Stevens Creek County Park: it's closed until April 2023.
This is a somewhat confusing trail. Per the signs, at the creek crossing, this trail is signed "Lower Table Mountain Trail", it's designated uphill-only for bicycles. Up on top of Table Mountain, just passed where it meets Charcoal Road, the trail is signed "Table Mountain Trail". That trail is hiking only, no bicycles. Charcoal Road is designated uphill-only for bicycles. The official map of the area only has the entire trail named "Table Mountain Trail".
County Park Trail Closure info:
https://parks.sccgov.org/closures-updates
"Beginning Tuesday, July 19, Table Mountain Trail will be closed until April 2023 for repair. The trail will be unsafe for the public once the work begins. Charcoal Road will remain open, but visitors will not be able to connect through to the Canyon Trail on the Table Mountain Trail."
More to come...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJUTv40NFzU
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VIDEO
HOME
home-assistant-energy-dashboard-with
Setting up the Home Assistant Energy Dashboard to work with power/energy sensors on a Vera Z-Wave controller.
Timeline:
00:00 Introduction
01:40 Vera controller
02:54 Energy Configuration
03:40 Z-Wave Sensor Details
04:34 Vera Integration
04:55 Template Section
06:35 Recorder
06:50 Statistics and Integration Section
08:25 Utility Meter Section
09:25 Create an Appliance Energy Sensor
11:50 Restarting HA Core
12:15 Adding new Device Energy Sensor
13:16 Refrigerator Energy Consumption Data
It doesn't seem possible to directly connect Z-Wave sensors, like the Aeotec Home Energy Monitor or smart switches and dimmers into this new Energy Dashboard.
It's necessary to use the template feature to pull power data from the desired Vera sensor into Home Assistant. Then make use of the recorder, statistics and integration platforms to create HA compatible energy sensors for the desired Z-Wave sensors. Finally, add those energy sensors to the utility_meter section of the configuration.yaml file, see example below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uD0QR8hAzqAF6jTnk3X0QxUhAgR04oJo/view?usp=sharing
Once you set up these sensors, they can be used to populate the new Energy Dashboard, which was included as of 2021.8.4 version of HA.
I didn't find much Vera or Z-Wave specific information on doing any of this on-line. I wanted to document how to bring this data in and give a few examples of how to do it specifically. I found the the HA documentation is very generic and gives examples like this:
# Example configuration.yaml entry
utility_meter:
energy:
source: sensor.energy_in_kwh
cycle: monthly
But nowhere does it say where this "sensor.energy_in_kwh" comes from, etc.
More to come...
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Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eD7T8tM-6dM
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CRAFT
craftsman-c3-battery-charging-part-7d
After balance charging and discharging the recovered pack, I try charging on a bench power supply.
And it worked! This pack would not charge on the Imax-B6 unless it had a pull-up resistor installed, yet charges fine off the power post from a voltage and current limited bench power supply.
So I thought perhaps it was something in the Imax-B6 charger that was causing the problems. But in the next video, I'll show a pack that won't charge from the bench supply:
- http://youtu.be/PGujDlXAXtw
So I think the charging issues still come down to something inside the battery pack that is shutting it off. I may try charging with a Turnigy LiPo charger and I may also try adding balance leads to this recovered pack.
As always, thanks for watching.
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbOn3jYf1IA
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ADVAN
advantium-speedcook-oven-repair-part-5
Now there's your problem!
The ceramic and sheath heaters both ohm out in range, but the halogen heater is open circuit. Opening up the upper "reflector assembly" confirms the burned out bulb.
Symptoms were no browning in the oven and an obvious lack of the visible light/heat from the halogen bulb in the top of the oven.
To access, unplug oven and remove from cabinet. Remove front grill and outer cover. Remove vent blower and oven fan and all the heat shields and insulation off the top of the unit. I had to disconnect a few components and move them aside for easier access.
New halogen bulb: "GE WB21X10142 Heater Halogen"
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0093QZS3Q
To be continued...
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And as always, thanks for watching
SOUNDTRACK:
Lousiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PioGNEps6yU
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VIDEO
EPEVE
epever-epsolar-mt50-remote-display-2
Answering viewer requests for an "all-in-one" video showing all the screens and settings on my EpSolar/EpEver charge controller with the MT50 remote display.
I have 2 of these controllers and displays, one 20A and the other 40A. This video focuses on the 20A/12V setup in my garden shed. The system has 2 strings of 2 - 60W and 2 - 15W panels in parallel, giving ~43Voc and 3.5Isc and 150W. Batteries are 26AH and 12AH AGM/sealed units in parallel for 30AH total capacity. They are in parallel since the capacities are different and I need to be able to remove either one to use it elsewhere.
The lights and fans in shed are powered off the DC Load terminals of the charge controller. This way, if a light is left on by mistake, the controller will shut off the load output below the low voltage disconnect level. The DC Load output also records energy consumption, which I track on a monthly basis.
Many people do not understand the DC Load feature and instead connect things directly to the battery. This is fine for heavy loads like a power inverter. But for smaller loads like lights, fans, and other electronics, the DC Load output will help protect the battery from over discharge. These controllers were originally designed for lighting applications and the DC Load feature has a many options for "On at Sunset"and "Off at xyzHours" for use in controlling lights at night. I think this scares off many people, especially if you have to look up up a number in a table to select on the controller. I always select the "Manual Control" option (usually the last option in the table!) and then the "Esc" key gives a simple on/off control for the load. All the controllers I've used have a 20A maximum DC Load output rating. They will shut off if that current is exceeded. If you wanted to control a higher current load, it's easy to wire up a DC relay to that output. Have the relay then switch battery current on and off to the higher current device.
See the video card links to videos with more details on the various screens.
MT50 Remote Display:
https://amzn.to/3YI43Tf
I have the 4215BN (40A) and the Tracer 2210AN (20A) controllers:
EpEver Solar Charge Controllers:
https://amzn.to/412O9oP
More to come...
Subscribe for more content like this
Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon
And as always, thanks for watching
Intro/Outro:
Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers
https://web.archive.org/web/20170402222425/http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dpDUFyDVJw
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