You can now buy me cake and things to take apart at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Programming info and unbricking info down below. This is a very common and cheap module on ebay. As long as any temperature critical application has a secondary protection against overheating or overcooling then it should actually be usable. The module runs on a 12V DC supply and draws about 20mA or 70mA when the relay is energised. The relay has a set of volt-free contacts optimistically rated for 20A at 125V AC. Probably better used at much lower current and voltage for longevity. Here's the programming info:- A brief press of SET enters the main temperature adjustment mode with the current set temperature flashing. This can be adjusted with the up/down buttons, and holding them will make them auto-repeat. When finished adjusting, the unit will store your new setting and revert back to normal operation after several seconds. Holding down SET for about 5 seconds will enter programming mode. You can step through the program parameters from P0 to P6 with the up/down buttons and use SET to select them. P0 Selects cooling mode or heating mode. In cooling mode (C) the relay will energise and close the contacts when the probe temperature is above the set temperature. In heating mode (H) the relay will energise and close the contacts when the probe temperature is below the set temperature. P1 Allows you to set a hysteresis value between 0.1 to 15 degrees. The hysteresis value is to prevent the relay chattering on and off when the probe is wavering around the set temperature point. For instance, with hysteresis set to the default of 2 degrees, when in cooling mode and the temperature is set to 25 degrees, the relay will activate as soon as that temperature is reached, but not deactivate until the temperature is brought down to 23 degrees (25 degrees minus a hysteresis value of 2 degrees) When in heating mode the relay would activate as soon as the temperature fell to 25 degrees, but would remain on until it reached 27 degrees. (25 degrees plus a hysteresis value of 2 degrees.) P2 Highest temperature limit. Set to 110 degrees by default. This is used to limit the upper temperature than can be set. P3 Lowest temperature limit. Set to -50 degrees by default. This sets the lowest temperature than can be set. P4 Probe correction. Very neat. Allows you to calibrate the temperature the probe is sensing by +7.0 to -7.0 in tenth of a degree increments. P5 Relay energisation delay of between 0 to 10 minutes to limit fast cycling of equipment like compressors. After setting this function the unit must be powered off and on again for the change to take effect. When I tested this it switched after about 35 seconds with a delay of "1" and about 1:40 with a delay of "2". P6. This is an over-temperature limit that turns off the relay and displays a row of dashes on the display. Unfortunately it seems to take priority over menu access, so if you inadvertently set it below your room temperature you can effectively brick your unit. But this is recoverable in two ways. Either unplug the probe to make the unit think the temperature is very low (It displays LLL) and that will give access to the menu again, or use the factory reset function which involves holding down the plus and minus buttons while you turn the unit on. The display will do a self-test showing 888 and the unit will revert back to its default settings. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVD0zkZTe00

I get the feeling that the primary survivors of an apocalypse will be technically inclined people who can scavenge technical stuff to provide basic comforts like food, light and heat. Heat is trickier, but light is surprisingly easy. This is a very relaxed project where you can scavenge things like solar panels and batteries from other products to cobble together a light that can harvest whatever solar energy is available for decorative or practical use. You can also buy the 5/6V solar panels from eBay very cheaply if you have nothing suitable laying about. This design will work perfectly with two solar panels from standard single NiMH cell garden lights wired in series, or a bigger 5V/6V solar panel. The NiMH cells can literally be anything you can find, as can the LEDs. The only thing to watch out for with the LEDs is duff ones that have developed a leakage resistance and will drain the batteries without providing light. Ideally the solar panel will be aimed at an area of the sky that the sun traverses across during the day for maximum efficiency. The amount of charge the solar cell can put into the batteries is dependent on location and cloud cover. Some days it may be a lot and some it may be low, but either way the LEDs will continue to glow at low level even after several very dark overcast days. This simple arrangement would be perfect for an ambient light in a remote log cabin. It could also be a source of visual comfort during power outages in areas subject to regular storm damage. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. #ElectronicsCreators ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmHh7U5u_i0

Having explored the smaller version of this product I also bought the full sized extra-lust version directly from rubber-maid. I think they may have caressed it in their groin before they sent it, because it was EXTRA juicy. (I may have had some wine.) This unit also uses the fantastically simple gas generating electrochemical cell to squeeze the liquid out into the MOIST aroma dispersion wick. But it's purely intended for FIRM vertical mounting on a RIGID surface. There are currently some very scientific tests in progress involving an official gas generation cell and a conventional hearing-aid style zinc air battery being AUTOEROTICALLY deprived of oxygen to STIMULATE the production of hydrogen from the stifled electrochemical reaction. If all goes to plan, both plungers will be FIRM and ERECT in short order. (Spoiler - the experiment was a success.) In this case the unit squirts its fragrant JUICE down into a wick in a controlled and programmable manner (by a simple passive resistor) to dispense it's LUSTFULL aroma into the air from it's RUGGED and RIBBED exterior secured in place by a CHASTITY-BELT so nobody can take advantage of it's DESIRE without paying for the SERVICE. In hindsight, the diaphragm between the cell and aroma liquid is probably a hydrogen permeable polythene layer to allow the hydrogen to push the liquid out while keeping it away from the cell to avoid chemical interaction. Really - I had to finish off the vermouth - but it's quite potent for its ABV. I specifically avoid using intrusive mid-run video LUST, which means I don't earn as much from my content as other YouTube DEVIANTS. If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar or two for coffee, cookies and random SEXYTOYS for disassembly at:- https://www.patreon.com/bigclive Patreon supporters get early access to advert-free FILTH as it is made, and also regular live PORNOFUN streams. This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more DECADENT. Other BEAR-PROSTITUTEOUS options are available at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm #ElectronicsCreators ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DffIo9xtlNw

This was another random purchase just out of curiosity. It's clearly a housing designed for a bi-pin LED lamp, but is supplied without a driver, the pins or the actual LED chip (just a bare star PCB). The empty pin holes allow the direct insertion of wires to the housing, meaning it could be used as a custom pendant style LED light. The video ends a bit abruptly to spare your ears, since I managed to knock the iPad off its shelf while "hanging" the light from its wires. I used a current limited supply to drive the LED in the video. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFIbWeLoz0A