Between the service valves added to the bottom of the heater and the new utility sink made descaling a breeze. You can purchased tankless heater flush kits, but they run upwards of US$150. I had an old sump pump on hand and my clothes washer has some old rubber hoses that could use replacement and I had a 3 gallon plastic bucket, so that was almost all I needed to put together a flush kit myself. The flush kit for the new tankless water heater cost me about $10 for the two right angle hose adapters: Amazon affiliate link: https://amzn.to/2JrX9Pk Or if you don't have any old clothes washer hoses, here's a set with right angle ends: https://amzn.to/2CDhTQ2 I had this Little Giant sump pump on hand: Amazon affiliate link: https://amzn.to/2Rfjjo1 I added those to the end of the old clothes washer hot/cold hoses. Then connected the cold line to my old sump pump and used a 3 gallon plastic bucket and ~2.5 gallons of white vinegar and circulated that through the heater for 45 minutes. I may try something like Citric Acid next year to see how that works. I've been using that on my espresso machine for several years now and it's easier to store (dry powder) and costs about half of what vinegar does. The commercial descaling mixes cost upwards of $60 and I would be spending more on that than on gas to run the heater for a whole year! I followed the instructions in the Installation and Owners Guide. The only thing that didn't cover was checking the inlet filter. Next time, I think I'll make use of my GFCI outlet and instead of pulling the power plug out, I'll just hit the GFCI Test and Reset buttons to turn the unit off and on. Subscribe for more content like this Feel free to rate, comment and share And as always, thanks for watching Intro: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-6kJ7RluLY

It's like riding a new bike, new Marathon Mondial tires front and rear for the first time since 2012! I found the rubber on these tires lasts about 8 years before starting to crack badly enough to leak sealant and air when run tubeless. Might be fine to use past this with tubes. With my mix on on/off pavement riding, I can get 4 years and ~5000 miles out of a back tire before the tread is worn out. By using a 3 rear rotation plan, I should have enough tread remaining on the rear tire to be usable up front for another 3 years. Likewise, the front tire after 3 years, should be just slightly worn and should last an additional 3 years in back. I'll also time the tire rotation with our wet season to take advantage of the deeper tread when the trails are muddy. First season will be 100% tread, 2nd season should be 75% and 3rd season 50%. Then swapping tires front and rear will put the now 25% rear tire up front and the ~75% front tire in back. Then in another 3 years, both tires should be worn down and need replacing. Wearing the center tread blocks down too far on these tires leads to increased noise and rolling resistance. On a new 700cx40 tire, center block tread depth is 0.10" (2.5mm). On the original front tire, the tread depth is 0.61" (1.5mm). At that tread depth, the side lugs are just starting to make contact with the pavement at 30 psi (2 bar) pressure. If you ride a higher pressure, you might be able to get more distance out of the tire. Note that Schwalbe recommends 50-85 psi (3.5-6 bar) in these tires with tubes. So I'm breaking 2 rules with these tires, but that's the goal of this bike, to break as many "bike rules" as possible. Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/tour-reader/marathon-mondial This video is not sponsored by Schwalbe. Subscribe for more content like this Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon And as always, thanks for watching #GravelBike #schwalbe #bike #tubeless #cycling #monstercross ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYBIL-siUoQ

A return trip to this area to check out the pond area shown on the 1961 and later topo maps. None of the maps name this side stream or pond nor show either of the 2 old roads into this area. If anyone has any information on this area like who built the pond, what was it's purpose, etc. feel free to post up in the comments. County bridge information, 37C0604 and 37C0605: https://bridgereports.com/ca/santa-clara/ Restoration: https://sccgov.iqm2.com/Citizens/Detail_LegiFile.aspx?Frame=&MeetingID=8498&MediaPosition=&ID=85534&CssClass= More to come, looking for the lower road and the outflow channel for the pond. Subscribe for more content like this Comment, rate, share & click the bell icon And as always, thanks for watching ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqVJxuq8jQM

Update to the BuildTak first impressions video after 4 months of use. I'm quite happy with the way the BuildTak material is working and holding up. This is the 2nd sheet I've used and it has about 3 months of use on it. I damaged the 1st sheet by having the bed too high and the nozzle scraped into the material in one area. Then I accidentally set the bed temperature too high and bubbled up the adhesive. Luckily that made removing the sheet easier. I wipe down the bed with 70% isopropyl alcohol and then periodically lightly sand the surface when I see shiny areas or to remove stuck on filament. I also lightly sand the "wipe zone" where the printer deposits it's first bit of filament. For ABS printing, I'm now using 95-100*C bed temps and that stays constant for the full print. It's just simpler that way and works quite well. Spatulas with offset handles and smooth, thin blades work well for removing parts from the hot BuildTak surface: Foreasy Spatula: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK BuildTak spatula: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017XGEDOM Printing ABS on BuildTak work flow: https://youtu.be/BGRWi2eQ97s Be sure to rate, comment and share your BuildTak tips and tricks. And as always, thanks for watching! SOUNDTRACK: Louisiana Fairytale by Austin Rogers http://drfiddle.com/show_tune.php?id=94 ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EJmxOaoaGE