A random experiment I was revisiting where I applied a very high voltage at extremely low current across two electrodes at either end of a plastic vial filled with oil and glitter.
The high voltage source is a simple Cockroft Walton multiplier based ioniser and the top of the 60mm (2.5") high vial literally just has the carbon fibre ion emitter tuft. So the current that is electrostatically moving the glitter is absolutely miniscule. If the top is grounded it results in an extreme glitter frenzy.
With oil and a small amount of alcohol the effect is a surging liquid at the bottom erupting into tiny blobs that shatter apart as they interact. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u___CAoRq0
This was a bit random. I was hunting for LED tubelight that was designed for 24V operation and instead found a listing that seemed too good to be true. A 5m length of 24V LED tape for £1.77. I guessed it was a mistake, but ordered two just to see what happened. I duly received two one metre sections of random flat LED strip with no connectors, rectifiers or data.
Challenge accepted.
Note that while the 4-way 0.1" (2.54mm) pitch Molex style connector can be used to make connection to the strips busbar, I'm not sure if it is likely to have any reaction with the non solderable metal that the busbar-cores are made of. I wouldn't recommend running long lengths with this arrangement.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNicgK4nNQo
I'd like to thank John Harrison for sending me a link to these on Aliexpress. I've not had much luck getting stuff sent from AE to the Isle of Man so I checked for them on eBay and found that HMRC (UK tax) was blocking some Chinese sellers from shipping to the UK.
I finally found some sellers shipping to the UK so I bought a couple from different sellers to be on the safe side.
They both arrived together, and here's a demo and a teardown.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ze8jifMh034
I bought this knowing that it would be typical of the stuff branded by what I regard as "dead" brands. Duracell, Kodak, Polaroid etc, where the products they originally represented have been superseded by technological advancements. The brand name tends to be applied to fairly generic products in the hope that the familiar brand name will allow them to be sold at a higher than average price.
This is a camping light that takes four AA cells (but will work with two) and has the novel feature of using a fairly heavy patterned edge-lit plastic panel to spread the light about in a rather vague pattern that makes it more of an area light than one suited to aiming light for working. It has two intensity settings. Full with no resistors in series with the LEDs and low with two parallel 3 ohm resistors. At the low setting the current is about 100mA with fresh batteries and at high setting the current will be affected by battery freshness, internal impedance, wiring/switch resistance and the current to voltage ratio of the LEDs.
The use of LEDs directly across 2 cells (two series pairs in parallel) means that intensity will quickly fall off and it should stay lit for a fairly long length of time, albeit at much lower intensity than with fresh cells.
The design and construction of the plastic case is good, but it's not as water resistant as it looks and the circuitry is very basic. The simple design means that it will only partially use the battery capacity. These days I tend to expect a product like this to be rechargeable and the only way this lantern could be used in this way is with NiMh cells, and the use of two in series means it's not really suited to their use.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNmdCV_-pKM
The Glasgow meet clashed with a big football match, but still got a good turn out. Lots of technical talk and exploration of various gadgets.
It's been hard to plan in advance recently, so the Glasgow meet will be literally a few days after I post this video.
It will be at 3pm on Sunday 1st September 2019 at The Counting House, a pub on a corner of George Square in Glasgow.
We usually meet in the room on the corner diagonally opposite from Greggs the bakers, assuming it's not already busy.
You can keep up to date with meets like this on the official bigclivedotcom Facebook page at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQ5nsQ5o-KA
If you asked 100 Scottish people how they make their porridge you would probably get 100 different answers. So the true answer is "Any way you like."
Here's how I make mine, and a look at a commercialised version which basically adds a huge amount of sugar to kickstart your sugar cravings as early as possible in the day.
A link to AvE's channel of Canadian technical shenanigans.
https://www.youtube.com/user/arduinoversusevil
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6ofLi_Rd2U
This is another MRE (Meal Ready to Eat) emergency ration that was sent by Kim Sleep.
Another chemical heater and - yes, I did light the gas....
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYvuswNrJkQ
I added this set of solar lights to another order to see what the circuitry inside was like. I also wanted to see if the solar panel shown on the listing was remotely like the one sent. It is, and has a surprisingly high output.
A very nice feature of this set is the use of the increasingly common "copper wire" LED strings. These are made of two enamelled copper wires with surface mount LEDs soldered across them at regular intervals and then dipped in resin to protect the LEDs with a drip of tough and waterproof resin. They seem to be much more waterproof than the usual heatshrink sleeved LED strings that rust inside quite quickly.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHJOFIb32XY
Not everyone uses beard oil, but it does help to use a little occasionally to allow easier brushing of your beard to remove tangles. It has the extra effect of making the beard look visually deeper.
There are lots of designer oils to choose from, but when it comes to the crunch a basic mineral oil like baby oil works perfectly, has a very long shelf life and is time proven to be safe to apply to skin.
If you don't like the smell of freshly squeezed babies you can mask it with a wide variety of essential oils. Note that the word essential indicates that it is a natural plant extract and not a chemical aroma. You can use a few drops of a single essential oil, or mix them to create a custom aroma, but note that you should only use a few drops due to the vicinity of your beard to your nose.
The use of medicinal oils like Tea Tree or Olbas oil can have advantages in helping with dry skin. One of my favourite oil blends is Four Thieves - a classic mix of cinnamon, clove, lemon, eucalyptus and rosemary essential oils that has a rich aromatic smell.
The critics who claim you should use only natural organic oils may have missed the point that mineral oil is fully natural and organic, and refined in exactly the same way as their plant oils.
One small bottle of baby oil will last a very long time.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiEFzjd0YZw
I had a few requests to get one of these and take it to bits, so here it is.
It's a fairly high power 60W (50W) light with three panels that can be aimed independently to light specific areas of a space. It's described as being an industrial high-bay style lamp but has a lot of other uses.
The temperatures I measured were lower than expected. The back of the heatsink remained at a touchable temperature at around 45C at the centre and quickly diffusing the heat through the generous and stylish heatsink. Of more concern was the circuitry temperature with the back of the PCB measuring 80C when I removed the cover and then dropping a bit when there was airflow.
It suggests that an extra strategically drilled hole or two in the top could allow better airflow through the driver section. The large foam pad that holds the PCB in place also presses right against the back of one of the drivers, including what could be a track area intended to dissipate heat - so it may accelerate the failure of the middle driver.
You can get these lights from banggood and on eBay. Here's a generic eBay search link:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=e27+led+deformable&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15
Not sure I'd recommend the plastic version for heat dissipation reasons.
Target price is around $25 shipped. Make sure you get the right voltage version if there are options. You may also get colour temperature options.
I've had a few reports of people getting shocks from metal housings on LED lamps and tubes. There's very little clearance and no grounding in many of these devices so it's inevitable that some will become live either through manufacturing flaws, shipping damage or failure. I always recommend that if you are installing new lamps with the power on, you make sure there is no easy current path to ground through your body. If in doubt, turn the power off or wear a glove on the hand you are using to put lamps in.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aypiNdcDjEY