Published By
Created On
30 Oct 2023 23:06:28 UTC
Transaction ID
Cost
Safe for Work
Free
Yes
MTH Premier AC4400CW Light Modification (please read description).
Having just recently received my new BNSF AC4400CW I was both pleased and annoyed. First off let me say that MTH has out done themselves again. This is a beautiful loco that has all the bells and whistles. Runs like a charm and has great up-to-standard detailing one would expect from a "Premier" product. However, the factory-installed sound file came with the all too known "annoying" horn that is of the "new GEVOs"... This is an AC4400cw? Also- like the PS2 upgrades I have performed, I wanted the most out of my lighting. There are two areas of model train lighting that are pet-peeves with me. 1) head and ditch lights are not bright enough and so are not prototypical, 2) the number boards also act as cab interior lights (or in some cases totally flood out cab lights if installed). So, after having performed several PS2 upgrades I felt I was experienced enough to try a little light modification.
First the Cab lights vs. number boards. I prefer to have a dark cab but illuminated number boards- to keep the number boards from flooding the cab with light, I built, with heavy paper card, shrouds around each light bulb inside for each number board. I had to vent the area so I punched little pin-sized holes for cooling. This allowed a little light to escape to the cab but it was totally manageable.
As for the Head and ditch lights, I basically popped the plastic lenses out of the body and ditch light shrouds. This allowed the actual light bulb themselves to be exposed, thus making for brighter lights. A little hot-glue secured them in place. I also built a shroud, around the head light to keep it from flooding the cab- thus keeping the cab dark.
As all of us train fans know, the head and ditch lights of a real train are so bright they blind us up close, and can illuminate terrain for up to a mile away. Now, in a 100 percent totally dark room, my model trains can do the same- having measured a "scale mile" on my floor layout the bulbs produce scale prototypical illumination on my room walls up to a scale-mile away. And they look proto- typically bright up close. Pretty cool!
The video highlights the loco and I do a full up-close light test at the end of video.
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quSTM3vlpiQ
First the Cab lights vs. number boards. I prefer to have a dark cab but illuminated number boards- to keep the number boards from flooding the cab with light, I built, with heavy paper card, shrouds around each light bulb inside for each number board. I had to vent the area so I punched little pin-sized holes for cooling. This allowed a little light to escape to the cab but it was totally manageable.
As for the Head and ditch lights, I basically popped the plastic lenses out of the body and ditch light shrouds. This allowed the actual light bulb themselves to be exposed, thus making for brighter lights. A little hot-glue secured them in place. I also built a shroud, around the head light to keep it from flooding the cab- thus keeping the cab dark.
As all of us train fans know, the head and ditch lights of a real train are so bright they blind us up close, and can illuminate terrain for up to a mile away. Now, in a 100 percent totally dark room, my model trains can do the same- having measured a "scale mile" on my floor layout the bulbs produce scale prototypical illumination on my room walls up to a scale-mile away. And they look proto- typically bright up close. Pretty cool!
The video highlights the loco and I do a full up-close light test at the end of video.
...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quSTM3vlpiQ
Author
Content Type
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video/mp4
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English
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